tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28591361017943812762024-02-18T23:33:44.428-05:00DeLorean Ownership & UpkeepThis is a simple blog, to document and share my experiences with the ownership of a 1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (Vin#2109). I hope that the information published here will be interesting and especially useful as reference information for enthusiasts, other owners, and future owners.Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.comBlogger48125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-59713313559400030512013-07-20T20:33:00.000-04:002013-07-21T17:08:11.768-04:00The DeLorean's Glove Box LightingLet's start with a picture of 2019's glove box, contents, and LED lighting (excuse the dash mat, just trying to preserve a good dash).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xlWL01sZuH3bum0kbgd9S0Q5bxXjQf1h4dO__UUeh1GjhlBsIpGZOEbYUuzRu6_MoEQ2I7OOlQL5r8qYl9uBplsYiHBM344o1z0sfrD5fid65wAeoJdXM0jidhtn-QNptm-ysPQ5_Jk/s1600/Glove+Box+Light+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="381" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xlWL01sZuH3bum0kbgd9S0Q5bxXjQf1h4dO__UUeh1GjhlBsIpGZOEbYUuzRu6_MoEQ2I7OOlQL5r8qYl9uBplsYiHBM344o1z0sfrD5fid65wAeoJdXM0jidhtn-QNptm-ysPQ5_Jk/s640/Glove+Box+Light+01.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Introduction</b><br />
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Like all modern cars DeLoreans have a glove box, which is used to to store almost anything but gloves. Not all cars have glove boxes with lighting, but the DeLorean does. Granted this is an area of the car of neither much concern nor usage, however, this area has been known to drain batteries if the connections aren't correct (this light socket gets power even with doors off), or if (the incandescent) light is accidentally left on. Also following my past LED conversion, it was a candidate location for an LED upgrade -- and it turned out to be a trickier conversion than most other socket/bulbs.</div>
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<b>Bulb Type</b><br />
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As I mentioned on the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html">previously written LED conversion blog entry</a>, this is not a common bulb, but it still can be found. If you are looking for the incandescent replacement, search eBay or Google for a "12V T10 bulb". The "12V" is important because this bulb type use to be typically used on lower voltage, small flashlights. <br />
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If you'd like to replace this bulb with an LED, the similarly search for a "12V T10 LED", and you'll find options. Tip: Don't go with one that has a large bulb-side, or it may not fit.<br />
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<b>Blog Recommendation Verification</b><br />
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I was motivated to generate this simple blog entry because I read that other owners had trouble fitting in the glove box LED recommendations that were on my blog. This made me curious and caused me to a) check my LED solution in the glove box, and b) to test out the bulb that was written as a recommendation. <br />
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What I found was:<br />
a) I was using an LED bulb which I sourced at the time, but is no longer available; however, it was working, and the fit was, fine.<br />
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b) I purchased the bulb recommended on my blog entry, and tried it out myself. The issues that other owners mentioned, was that this bulb was too long, and it would not fit. Using that same bulb, it did in fact work out great, but in the process I may have stumbled on the reason others had issues with it.<br />
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<b>Glove Box Housing</b><br />
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Ah, the late 70's and early 80's were a different time. Multiple little parts that today are replaced by one single part, was acceptable back then. And there in lies a potential issue, the glove box housing is made up of <b><u>six</u></b> separate parts, that can actually be assembled in different ways(!).<br />
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...and let's start out with that. Here is a picture of the blog's recommended LED light, with the housing removed from the glove box. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oDPiTV9WsFyeAwGCu5SRYi_y5kPtdLc6gqYaJBVehyM195zRheC6yiQNENS9X6eLVfvDbwpTOJXzMWhdR3AVSzDBaw_juhFqqawxZjuj-PZz5jJuFUQMOBQOLZ-m6xkWkEEbFpbeUU8/s1600/Glove+Box+Light+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6oDPiTV9WsFyeAwGCu5SRYi_y5kPtdLc6gqYaJBVehyM195zRheC6yiQNENS9X6eLVfvDbwpTOJXzMWhdR3AVSzDBaw_juhFqqawxZjuj-PZz5jJuFUQMOBQOLZ-m6xkWkEEbFpbeUU8/s640/Glove+Box+Light+02.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see, there is NO way that lens will attach to the housing. The LED is just too long. ...or is it?<br />
I have purposely incorrectly reassembled the housing incorrectly in the picture above, to demonstrate a point: It will fit fine into the glove box as pictured, and maybe you may have to bend the electrical pins a little, but it certainly works this way. Except the lens cover will not fit in this configuration.<br />
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Here in fact are all the six parts of the housing, with the same bulb...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HweDXKOohHq3c8fOhU1N7Gr4QdlOLdELtDSQ6HGYOMotSrkHZAo9kGlEG8kejcAdEaf2l2rEwBCRrCyEHLH89eUE4FU5t6TDePHpinJD8InkgDqoyjtyJUNp9pp2Lr9UObboNgQXGNc/s1600/Glove+Box+Light+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="154" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9HweDXKOohHq3c8fOhU1N7Gr4QdlOLdELtDSQ6HGYOMotSrkHZAo9kGlEG8kejcAdEaf2l2rEwBCRrCyEHLH89eUE4FU5t6TDePHpinJD8InkgDqoyjtyJUNp9pp2Lr9UObboNgQXGNc/s640/Glove+Box+Light+03.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
You can see that the LED bulb's threads are still sticking about the socket, and I did not even have to tighten it very hard, but in this configuration, it still fits and works properly, as seen below.<br />
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Re-assembling it back as correctly, and powering it up on the bench...<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgDx5e12iLvoSgnjW057Z7pWO2rkYSqiNgSDZdSJu14FOu_dvmxgTfeuUzOY-tsftaD5FMQTiRHSVI7_mr6UQuLkGi1C2wUo_IgS_mZH1qQl0RGenUnQB_kV0mDbOfZsDSTNHNyrPBE80/s1600/Glove+Box+Light+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgDx5e12iLvoSgnjW057Z7pWO2rkYSqiNgSDZdSJu14FOu_dvmxgTfeuUzOY-tsftaD5FMQTiRHSVI7_mr6UQuLkGi1C2wUo_IgS_mZH1qQl0RGenUnQB_kV0mDbOfZsDSTNHNyrPBE80/s640/Glove+Box+Light+04.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
...shows that the bulb fits, and lights up (very brightly, with this LED).<br />
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<b>Glove Box Housing - The Proper Re-Asssembly</b><br />
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Since I had that previous picture, I took the next step and put some re-assembly instructions on it, as follows:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRjazBn1ES_0CCp8EUUTqPudCyheUhPQCVc50IuI15TN12hdWfIINGwyRTJQ1XBDjYKVTe_z8YoDS5ca2wG-EybWyWCvM4HckyeSEsiCXuv5e0IIPvAPcngo0R7nelbuW9zVbBmvSqjAw/s1600/Housing+Assembly+Instructions+B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRjazBn1ES_0CCp8EUUTqPudCyheUhPQCVc50IuI15TN12hdWfIINGwyRTJQ1XBDjYKVTe_z8YoDS5ca2wG-EybWyWCvM4HckyeSEsiCXuv5e0IIPvAPcngo0R7nelbuW9zVbBmvSqjAw/s640/Housing+Assembly+Instructions+B.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Just remember to reconnect the terminals in the rear, to the two associated connectors. (Edit: If it doesn't light up upon re-installation, reverse the connectors to the terminals - polarity at the terminals doesn't matter for an incandescent, but it does for LEDs.) When the day comes to replace the bulb, you may be able to do so by removing just the front clear lens, but I even with the incandescent I would just remove the entire assembly shown - it's very simple to repeat once you do it once.<br />
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<b>Summary/Conclusion.</b></div>
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So, there you have it, the LED solution for the DeLorean's glove box. I am at peace that the information that I've previously published is good, as I am now using the same bulb.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">As always, if you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a><span style="background-color: white;"> postings</span></div>
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Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-75921974901928523432013-05-26T11:36:00.003-04:002014-08-31T19:33:43.254-04:00Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car.<br />
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Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2uk1MS0aNE3RQ56k9EkIMklc36q7ZPl7kWo0xcUBKSBWbTtuUwpHNY0CQUerDI8LPqMN-CST7nf_VeX9CD7NYodokHcQoFT4mAJiKK4WYhztNipBFGPzikXAt3vuO_gn7Lna17UVR5w/s1600/Intro+Pic.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2uk1MS0aNE3RQ56k9EkIMklc36q7ZPl7kWo0xcUBKSBWbTtuUwpHNY0CQUerDI8LPqMN-CST7nf_VeX9CD7NYodokHcQoFT4mAJiKK4WYhztNipBFGPzikXAt3vuO_gn7Lna17UVR5w/s640/Intro+Pic.jpg" height="384" width="640" /></a></div>
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I once drove a very low mile hardly driven DeLorean, and I was a bit surprised how it shifted as compared to mine. When I shifted on 2109 for as long as I've had it, it always seemed to mechanically clunk at the linkages and seemed very loose compared to that other DeLorean that I was driving. I made a mental note to look into that one day.</div>
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Fast forward a several years and fellow DeLorean owner Mike (aka: Mike the Lotus Guy, Mike the parrot owner guy, Mike the zany IT guy) last week posts that he just changed the bushings on his DeLorean, and how great it shifts now ("<span style="background-color: white; color: #333333; font-family: 'lucida grande', tahoma, verdana, arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">My Elise wishes it shifted so well")</span>. That triggered that mental note I made some time ago, and made me look into this further. Looking at the parts it seemed straight forward enough, and I contacted Mike with a question on access. His response went above and beyond in that he offered me a seven step how-to/tips of how to change the bushings. Very cool, Mike.</div>
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So I ordered the parts and waited until the weekend to start it. I completed the job in about half a day (I don't work fast, so factor that), and the results are indeed very rewarding, the car now shift much smoother, much tighter, you can really feel the bushings in the linkages contributing to all this as you shift. Another good thing about this small project, is that it is a very inexpensive job in terms of parts, and very straight forward for you do-it-yourself types. </div>
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(Sorry, not a lot of pictures here as I usually do, and of the few that I took most were not terribly usable - but again the results here more of an improved feel and performance which is difficult to capture in pics or video.)</div>
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<u>Parts Required:</u></div>
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100775: Bushing, Rubber (Total 4 required) - #8 on diagram below</div>
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100776: Bushing, Sleeve (Total 8 required) - #7 on diagram below</div>
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SP10025: 4 M8 x 1.25 nylock nuts, (Optional, to replace the originals.) - #6 on diagram below</div>
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At the time of this writing, less than $40 in parts. Interestingly both the sleeves and rubber bushings are listed as "DMC Improved Parts". The rubber bushings that came out of my car were different, inferior I would even say, that to these new ones. The sleeves were the same, and as I have a very complete list of work history on 2109, and don't see these ever changed, I may have had original parts. </div>
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Reference above at: <a href="http://store.delorean.com/c-289-4-2-0-manual-shift-linkage.aspx">DMCH Web Site</a></div>
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<u>Procedure:</u></div>
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The list that Mike sent me is below (used with his permission), I added my notes as to my experience and a minor optional deviation, prefaced below under "Ozzie:" <br />
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So here goes:</div>
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Ozzie: Obviously, lift the car for access to bottom. As always use proper safe methods. If you use stands only, at least shove some tires underneath just in case and try not to bump into them as you wiggle your way under car (think of the game "Operation" here).</div>
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<i>1. Change the bushing on the shift rod at the transmission. Easiest one. 17 mm wrench on the bolt side, 13 mm wrench on the nut side. Use ratchets; the bolt is long.</i></div>
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Ozzie: I concur, this was a cinch. My only other recommendation is to ensure that you replace the rod in the same way it came out, so you don't change the working linkage adjustments of your system.</div>
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<i>2. Working in the accumulator port, change the two bushings in there. Just a 13 mm ratchet needed here, as the shift rod ends sit on studs in there. Go ahead and tighten up the nut for the rod that goes back to the transmission after changing the bushing.</i></div>
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Ozzie: Ah the accumulator port (access hole), I have mental scars from an accumulator replacement many years back in my garage: car inches above your chest, limited arm leverage to works, fun. But this was different, the clevis, or "Bellcrank Assembly", where the two link rods rotate from is not entirely visible from below the car, but easily enough accessible by hand and to work it with a ratchet wrench. As for replacing the bushings at this point, I concur as he wrote. Once you figure out the best way to wrench it, it is very straight forward. </div>
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<i>3. Only barely thread the nut on to the stud that the shift rod going to the shifter assembly sits on. This will allow much greater movement in the next step.</i></div>
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Ozzie: This is where I deviate a little from Mike's suggestion. What he wrote works, but I found it easier to just remove the shifter rod, remove old bushings and leave it disconnected. You'll see why below.</div>
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<i>4. In the car, remove the shift knob, undo the two screws holding the shifter cover down. Remove the shifter cover and the shift boot.</i></div>
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Ozzie: Yup to above. And when I looked at what was under there... well, I'm getting ahead.</div>
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<i>5. Use a 15 mm socket to remove the bolt for the pivot fork on the shifter assembly. Turn it sideways and you'll be able to pop out the clevis pin for the left/right shift cable</i>.</div>
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Ozzie: Yup to above, work slowly here and try not to drop the small parts (clevis, pin, washer) down in to the frame.</div>
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<i>6. Remove the four nuts holding the shifter assembly in place. 10 mm.</i></div>
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Ozzie: Yup to above, again.</div>
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<i>7. Lift the shifter up, and wiggle it past the hard lines, etc. That will get the shift rod up high enough to undo the bolt & nut to change the bushing.</i></div>
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Ozzie: Mike's notes end there, and you can see why, which is fine. However, this is where I changed it up a little. What I found under the shifter boot, which I've seen before and knew that someday I would address it, was a lot of dirt and filth attached to the grease on the shifter and nearby areas, like a very dirty visible part of the frame. So for me, the entire shifter had to come out for a clean up of it, and the area it mounts in. Since I left the linkage loose at the clevis, I pulled the shifter up and completely out, without a problem.</div>
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Now with the shifter out, i was able to a) very easily replace the bushing and sleeves, and b) clean off the assembly and apply some lithium grease to the moving parts.</div>
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Now all that remains is an added step, since I removed the shifter assembly:</div>
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Step 8.</div>
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i) Put shifter assembly back in place, guiding its linkage rod back from where it came from.<br />
ii) Reconnect the clevis pin hook up, and then check for shifter for functionality.</div>
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iii) Go back under the car and "fish out" the shifter rod by feel, now use the new sleeves and bushing and tighten it up on the clevis pin.</div>
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iv) Check a) your work to ensure all it tight under the car, and b) the shifter is traveling to the shift points as required, and if so, then lower the car, and button up the shifter assembly and for a ride.</div>
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<u>What I found.</u></div>
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In general, the rubber bushings that DMC now sells are certainly better than what came out of my car. The new rubber bushings have 90 degree flare edge on both ends, the ones that came out of my care only had it on one side.</div>
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Sleeves:</div>
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Except at the transmission side, all the other bushings sleeves that came out of my car were in very good shape. The sleeves on the tranny side, since it is the most exposed to the elements was pretty beat up.</div>
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Rubber bushings:</div>
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The bellcrank ones were not too bad really. However the tranny side rubber bushing tore itself part upon removal because it was pretty well aged (again, the one most exposed to the outside). The big surprise was the shifter's rubber bushing, it was pretty worn and obviously contributed to a lot of sloppy side to side play that I had been driving with. (BTW: Mike also confirms similar findings on his car.) No doubt this was the link that was the sloppiest and mainly caused the mechanical clunking sounds. While the other three get just rotate in place, this one rotates at different angles because of the shift points, so it gets the roughest treatment. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eZm4-UproGXOcraXsndHowHiRutXmlMepM_XU_Dhsk3EySg6K_ss5OHV1yz8rEKhAWCtVeX7BNgrij4t-qygecckLIzkHPpb6H5F0jdpHKpEKUD2ozNaq2JEQi2zSwG21zLETSKRucw/s1600/Shifter+Bushings+Replaced.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_eZm4-UproGXOcraXsndHowHiRutXmlMepM_XU_Dhsk3EySg6K_ss5OHV1yz8rEKhAWCtVeX7BNgrij4t-qygecckLIzkHPpb6H5F0jdpHKpEKUD2ozNaq2JEQi2zSwG21zLETSKRucw/s400/Shifter+Bushings+Replaced.jpg" height="222" width="400" /></a></div>
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Picture shows old bushing and sleeves from the shifter rod end as they came out, and the new set installed.</div>
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<b>Summary/Conclusion.</b></div>
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Thanks to Mike for posting this quick fix, and for reminding and motivating me to get it done. This is truly a big bang for the buck job, in the upkeep of these cars.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white;">As always, if you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a><span style="background-color: white;"> postings</span></div>
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Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-83212168027101534422012-07-01T00:15:00.001-04:002012-07-01T00:15:11.003-04:00The 2012 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.<div style="margin: 0px;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The 2012 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </span></b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The data of DeLorean DMC-12s sold on eBay for the last 68 months, up through the June of 2012, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the direct link </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">click here</span></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thanks. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span></span></span></div>
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</div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-4278902172284883002012-06-18T22:45:00.000-04:002013-07-27T13:28:44.762-04:00DMC-12’s Digital Clock: “It’s Alive!”<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>“It’s Alive!” </b></span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">That is what I said, channeling Victor Frankenstein, when my 30 year old DeLorean clock came back to life. I should explain.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span>
If you haven’t seen my older blog about my search and ultimately a solution for a replacement digital center console clock, I’ll summarize it quickly: My car came in great working order from the previous owner, except, and I was told upfront, that the digital clock on the center console did not work. I knew I was going to have the clock running again, it was only a matter of time (bwahhhah, unintended pun. Ahem.). <br />
<br />
So options I investigated were:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Find an new old OEM working one. Negative. All NOS clocks were long gone.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Find a used one. Negative. Everyone holds on to their clocks and it’s not like there is something else to replace in that position. BTW: these same clocks are used on the Lotus Elise, but I believe with a different end connector or wiring configuration.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Make one. </span></li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_ZaANcm9PgcOZHwIRzi6FnXAHXYMt773xfzIaGLkRCLBJ3te26NdjnJSVS-cCapemPziZY3XJKLWmnErWXaGvFyqMSzLbAU0Evz4_9q8i1XgQr2H2pR8se_GLKkEnSW5MvLFfx-3_uc/s1600/Clock+Alternative+DIY.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjw_ZaANcm9PgcOZHwIRzi6FnXAHXYMt773xfzIaGLkRCLBJ3te26NdjnJSVS-cCapemPziZY3XJKLWmnErWXaGvFyqMSzLbAU0Evz4_9q8i1XgQr2H2pR8se_GLKkEnSW5MvLFfx-3_uc/s320/Clock+Alternative+DIY.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Negative. I’m too much of a perfectionist and not enough of an electrical engineer to do a good job.
</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Find an alternative. OK, that is the course I pursued.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<u>Alternative pursued: </u><br />
1)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>$5 stick up LCD clock. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcIrYBNbtFWWX6hQEfeEYGLNApMXpZugzWNSPD8jbc1xagdCoAhYTTDL1m4MwoxLgyMTgiL4f8-pXHSAjoW4l4tpdrR_DQSBFCLJ5ZXyJ_laida59bAYwc7QzYpCHBYnyK64L6nPz6aMQ/s1600/Clock+Alternative+Cheezy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcIrYBNbtFWWX6hQEfeEYGLNApMXpZugzWNSPD8jbc1xagdCoAhYTTDL1m4MwoxLgyMTgiL4f8-pXHSAjoW4l4tpdrR_DQSBFCLJ5ZXyJ_laida59bAYwc7QzYpCHBYnyK64L6nPz6aMQ/s320/Clock+Alternative+Cheezy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Negative, too cheesy.</span>
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<br />
<br />
2)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>$10 modern-ish low power LCD clock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVelwgBz57Hv6PrnGXJQmBihafyVlWPKyqTGYXxT6WhtJ-uenUR33k2QaGG3GD8rGg8ZoueEmfndrQKUXCsfxdaQxR7rPVjjEgSG5vIhAhD1CKBc0mkWfk6wtQlSO5Y9lDHwzmikY0ddo/s1600/Clock+Alternative+Modern.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVelwgBz57Hv6PrnGXJQmBihafyVlWPKyqTGYXxT6WhtJ-uenUR33k2QaGG3GD8rGg8ZoueEmfndrQKUXCsfxdaQxR7rPVjjEgSG5vIhAhD1CKBc0mkWfk6wtQlSO5Y9lDHwzmikY0ddo/s200/Clock+Alternative+Modern.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
No.....just not the right style.
</div>
<br />
<br />
3)<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Scouring the Internet, I found Dakota Digital offered a digital clock, just about the right size and display, but of course not a direct fit. A few emails and phone calls confirmed that they could build their clock into our removable center panel. I chose this route and have been very happy with the results now for over two years. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQf8K2sA9ZkHi2Jpn-yViwO9Grjvs_ScNbtSRSx6tmAfaq2orvII_lD4SvyUTD9FhDmAtTi23ld9Ve9gnNQdlV7VyqFgpMaX3gG7T9izi8lNWn9_Z9j2E6y1dKJHCfnQbvRZMn9-bR9BI/s1600/Blog_Pic_14C.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQf8K2sA9ZkHi2Jpn-yViwO9Grjvs_ScNbtSRSx6tmAfaq2orvII_lD4SvyUTD9FhDmAtTi23ld9Ve9gnNQdlV7VyqFgpMaX3gG7T9izi8lNWn9_Z9j2E6y1dKJHCfnQbvRZMn9-bR9BI/s320/Blog_Pic_14C.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/delorean-clock-modern-update.html" style="background-color: white;">More details here on the Dakota Digital Clock from my previous blog.</a><br />
<br />
<b>..wait, a new Alternative:</b><br />
So that should end the story, except that a few weeks ago on the DMCTalk forum, out of the blue, someone from Europe says they are working on a custom clock replacement, and then posted pictures. Wow, my clock revival OCD kicked in again, and I contacted him for details so I could blog it. So this is the longest introduction ever, to this new product: Mr. Maurice Blom’s (most excellent) replacement digital console clock for the DeLorean.<br />
<br />
<b>First the Details:</b><br />
For this alternative clock solution, you will need:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">Your original clock case, doesn't matter if the clock is working , or semi-working, you just need the case anyway as the actual internal digital clock is easily removed, and will be replaced with this option.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">If you don’t have case (with working clock or not), perhaps a “Wanted” posting may produce some candidates. I am sure there are quite a few sitting out there with dead clocks.</span></li>
</ul>
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<br />
<u>Features of Maurice's clock</u><br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Replaces the original Printed Circuit Board (PCB) electronics of original clock, without any permanent modifications to your dash, center console, wiring, with a very modern design.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Zero power consumption when ignition switch is off (has a long life rechargeable battery built in).<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Remains on time without external power source, car battery can be switched off.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>12 (original) or 24 hour display formats.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Display brightness is dimmed when parking/side lights or head/side lights are on as in original clock.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Setting the time is identical to original clock, to small buttons on front.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Available with green or blue digits.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>One year warranty.<br />
<br />
Having just converted the car to nearly 100% LEDs, and benefiting from their low power dissipation, I was particularly interested in the zero power consumption aspect of it, when the car was off.<br />
<br />
<b>Clock arrives</b><br />
The clock arrived a few weeks after ordering it. I think it took much longer than typical because most likely a U.S. Homeland Security scan of the package probably generated a flag for further inspection – even though the package did not appear to be opened.<br />
<br />
Contents:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_DHjpbQs6Wm_oNgT9w-2OGVZxp8iKzbH-XdIPKKDspEsuduxeS4uOlxfStgcC38P03vORqYnE5Aro1lhqR2qnPS7wJx-3OSZfIdtZrzjCCXN9QRRsX3_EhbtsP9utqhQtGKqAiH_Jmqs/s1600/Contents.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_DHjpbQs6Wm_oNgT9w-2OGVZxp8iKzbH-XdIPKKDspEsuduxeS4uOlxfStgcC38P03vORqYnE5Aro1lhqR2qnPS7wJx-3OSZfIdtZrzjCCXN9QRRsX3_EhbtsP9utqhQtGKqAiH_Jmqs/s320/Contents.jpg" width="312" /></a></div>
<br />
1.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Clock Module DMC-12 PCB<br />
2.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Replacement connector with colored tags<br />
3.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Two foam spacers<br />
4.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Two replacement push buttons<br />
5.<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Instructions/installation manual (well written, with pictures)<br />
(Not included: A clock case, as discussed above, you reuse your existing one, or obtain one.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Bench Test</u><br />
I have a small portable power supply, so I hooked it up on my kitchen table and turned on the power supply to feed the clock power, before installing it. To my absolute surprise, <i>the clock lit up, out of the box, with the correct time.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQ5Nd1GCKAqpRcMMC-OTM9j_vz2PyDPxXbgzP0T-tpu5uoGCYuGeELI4xkPpqZUJOyzUOTC-gIVdVeZhBYJ0imfhYbZ5THhOYl14pWLTZfZMmyhHTo4LJ5oszgk-tl7cb2xvxos20qXE/s1600/Time+out+of+the+box.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeQ5Nd1GCKAqpRcMMC-OTM9j_vz2PyDPxXbgzP0T-tpu5uoGCYuGeELI4xkPpqZUJOyzUOTC-gIVdVeZhBYJ0imfhYbZ5THhOYl14pWLTZfZMmyhHTo4LJ5oszgk-tl7cb2xvxos20qXE/s320/Time+out+of+the+box.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I have pulled power many times before on the Dakota clock solution that I have been using (and the OEM clock would behave as well), only to have to reset the clock’s time, every time – not a big deal in the big scheme of things, just a minor nuisance. But this new unit has a built in battery, which runs the clock when there is no power, so thus the time was correct, that is, not blinking 12:00 like the VCRs of days gone by, immediately after being powered.<br />
<u><br /></u>
<u>In practice this means that:</u><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">As the "Features" bullet point above indicates, this unit consumes Zero car battery power when the car is off.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">If you park your car for extended period of time and disconnect the car’s battery, when you reconnect it, the correct time will display on the clock.</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white;">The clock's battery should last for many years, and is a commonly available replacement.</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<span style="background-color: white;"><b>Detailed Pics</b></span><br />
Below are some close ups of this new clock. You can see that this is very, very professionally engineered and manufactured.<br />
<br />
Here is a side by side with the old clock, with ‘70’s technology LEDs, the front/clock side of the board.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv8jkzhmrL4Tu8j2BXprip7-5Xad1DXldKEaG2tsEBI75sO7LkXW1lkXwpFndK9fS0WQxEZf73VFi-g8mU5QS92WO_4Axl-JPioTleBXshyHYNjktHCI1UxWmIAajxuTGCUsdiWkSo630/s1600/Both+Clocks+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv8jkzhmrL4Tu8j2BXprip7-5Xad1DXldKEaG2tsEBI75sO7LkXW1lkXwpFndK9fS0WQxEZf73VFi-g8mU5QS92WO_4Axl-JPioTleBXshyHYNjktHCI1UxWmIAajxuTGCUsdiWkSo630/s400/Both+Clocks+Front.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">…and the rear of the circuit boards. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz06tKM_nmEUCfp96pcDQBG6pGYe9fWCAvF0z2Yu9avlBTYg-gzVeV5bvCgKUXp8wExagOQ5WJWkoA99Zk-HI7Ho7Y7jre4-gZwO5dNdOA-o1gpncc7cfKoL6GjnbBuhg1o5vaQ1q8p1M/s1600/Both+Clocks+Rear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz06tKM_nmEUCfp96pcDQBG6pGYe9fWCAvF0z2Yu9avlBTYg-gzVeV5bvCgKUXp8wExagOQ5WJWkoA99Zk-HI7Ho7Y7jre4-gZwO5dNdOA-o1gpncc7cfKoL6GjnbBuhg1o5vaQ1q8p1M/s400/Both+Clocks+Rear.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
Dave McKeen explained to me that these old clocks operated the LED portion inside a vacuum, inside the glass case (mid to late 70's tech!). A common failure is that the end seal of this glass case, being...well: glass, is very fragile and many broke, thus disabling the clock. Another common failure point for these old clocks are delaminated circuit boards, which lead to intermittent behavior and ultimately 100% failure.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b><br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />Installation</b><br />
Installation was very straight forward. You basically snap off the cover from your OEM clock housing, cut the end connector off (or you could attempt to pull the pins from the OEM connector, and then pull the old clock out of the case.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxPlJcoYODYgAZ6_-Okl7V3U53Xc0JrlOY0HfzQaaEQ-9ZZUR6R2fpVmCosKlWtHyuqL1XaiqtPFLUbKY2QJCPPSdyKv2xOqU0hPCVcgg2NkubMnmt4CsIPFhMU8PkYiuXLS0el4tNek/s1600/Clock+OEM+in+case.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNxPlJcoYODYgAZ6_-Okl7V3U53Xc0JrlOY0HfzQaaEQ-9ZZUR6R2fpVmCosKlWtHyuqL1XaiqtPFLUbKY2QJCPPSdyKv2xOqU0hPCVcgg2NkubMnmt4CsIPFhMU8PkYiuXLS0el4tNek/s320/Clock+OEM+in+case.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
You then essentially repeat the process in reverse (adding the provided internal spacers and reset buttons) but you now use the new clock PCB. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUoWpWNk9GRGGvk_pXAzle0To9fO8sDUm78tDxyQhN0epmJSPaDlwDhr1TmuYhOs2PPXjh_9kxpG_RimCwO-oATOy-Qz29s1JMcqJ8mkMWpROt0pv-JIGuwi3NPAc3gtyXYsnXTIZJ_PE/s1600/Clock+New+PCB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUoWpWNk9GRGGvk_pXAzle0To9fO8sDUm78tDxyQhN0epmJSPaDlwDhr1TmuYhOs2PPXjh_9kxpG_RimCwO-oATOy-Qz29s1JMcqJ8mkMWpROt0pv-JIGuwi3NPAc3gtyXYsnXTIZJ_PE/s320/Clock+New+PCB.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The clock module is then put back on the center console, and to complete the installation, you will most likely have to set the clock to your appropriate time zone (mine arrived with East cost time, which is the time zone where I reside). T<span style="background-color: white;">hen you hook up the wires to the (also provided) new connector, and it’s done. This all can be done in 10-15 minutes.</span><br />
<br />
<br />
<u>How does it look?</u><br />
After I got through the coolness of the battery backed up time, is when I sat straight and saw that my 30 year old clock case was alive again with a working internal LED clock. Curiously I never really noticed that the color of the Dakota one is more blue than the OEM green. This green one actually matches the green illuminated 12V intercessory socket (aka: cigarette lighter) ring.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHBli9MUYMgMF7sdz4qdPRThl-EkSqbHIxvwAd0OpkbyQXVzr16O_SiiPxYiEu_vDmyr3dk4BnyPSb61lEQK765z9EPa8uftZYoxuJ0-QoXjDa-QXnNCWNeYSu9FFe5jJ4EbLCfBIaVSE/s1600/Clock+Assembly.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHBli9MUYMgMF7sdz4qdPRThl-EkSqbHIxvwAd0OpkbyQXVzr16O_SiiPxYiEu_vDmyr3dk4BnyPSb61lEQK765z9EPa8uftZYoxuJ0-QoXjDa-QXnNCWNeYSu9FFe5jJ4EbLCfBIaVSE/s400/Clock+Assembly.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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How cool. It felt like bringing something back from the dead (..well, I imagine, at least), thus the “It’s alive!” comment at the opening.<br />
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<b>Price:</b><br />
The price of the package is, for a display with:<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>green digits: <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>179 Euro.<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>blue digits: <span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>199 Euro. (blue digit components are more expensive)<br />
<span style="background-color: white;">•</span><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span><a href="http://www.google.com/finance/converter?a=199&from=EUR&to=USD">Click on this link for a EU to USD converter.</a>
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These prices are exclusive shipping costs, and vary per the destination from the point of origin in Amsterdam.<br />
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There was some initial discussion on the forums that this was too expensive, but you really have to value what has been done here. This is a custom engineered, modern, reliable, and direct fit replacement for a 30 year old component (and it includes new set pins and a connector), for a limited run car. <br />
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If you are looking to replace your clock because it went bad, or is on the way, or is intermittent, this is the perfect replacement.<br />
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<b><u>If you'd like to order one, here is the contact information:</u></b><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">E-mail: </span><span style="background-color: white;">mbdesigns@gmx.com</span><br />
<span style="background-color: white;">(Maurice Blom)</span><br />
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<b style="background-color: white;">TIP: </b><br />
Would you like to roll with a DeLorean console clock even if you have a greater than 6000+ VIN? DMC still sells the center/shifter console panels, with an opening for the clock. In fact, at this writing they do not carry the non-clock version. So that means that you could just buy a new center/shifter panel (sell your old one), remove the trim and rheostat from your current one and put them on the new one, then add your new clock (remember though, you'll still need at least an OEM clock case). Re-install the center/shifter panel, and viola tracking time like the 80's but with modern reliable LEDs.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="background-color: white;">As always, if you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a><span style="background-color: white;"> postings</span></span></div>
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<br />Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-27523505655286032532012-01-02T11:45:00.000-05:002012-01-02T11:45:51.475-05:00DeLoreans Sold on eBay: 2011 EOY Update<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The 2011 EOY Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </span></b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 62 months, up through the end of 2011, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the direct link </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">click here</span></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thanks. </span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span></span></span></div>
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</div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-5956468843498043982011-07-11T21:05:00.018-04:002014-04-28T23:07:02.550-04:00Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea, and more feasible than ever.<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<b>As of this month, 2109 is 100% LEDs.</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu9rTAMJRSE1PtvTJRW3JJBjohyphenhyphenpX2ts8q8zLlm_qxsaWHMEAPLixcD4HCwt4i2qhhgM_TEUkfBS4ncx8YpH7wGw41FgjyH_ul8SX6XEQ2woFk0APGbbDUBOL172h2bD6HS8NQo9mvydU/s1600/All+LEDs+on+Exterior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu9rTAMJRSE1PtvTJRW3JJBjohyphenhyphenpX2ts8q8zLlm_qxsaWHMEAPLixcD4HCwt4i2qhhgM_TEUkfBS4ncx8YpH7wGw41FgjyH_ul8SX6XEQ2woFk0APGbbDUBOL172h2bD6HS8NQo9mvydU/s320/All+LEDs+on+Exterior.jpg" height="251" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i><b>Update (05/18/13):</b> Here is something I hope you will find handy, a comprehensive list of all the bulbs in our cars, their incandescent and LED substitutes. Sample and link at the bottom of this posting.</i></div>
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This upgrade was done over time, sections at a time, and the final LEDs were the rear tail light ones that I put in this week. Now, when I state 100% LEDs, I mean every bulb socket in the car now has an LED bulb on it, with one mandatory exception (on the instrument cluster, discussed below), and of course the headlights (...for now).<br />
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<i><b>Edit (09/11/11):</b> A few of you have been kind of enough to send me some corrections to the Superbright part numbers. I've made the corrections below in italics. Thanks.</i><br />
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Below you will find a discussion primarily related to the maximum current draw that the battery will see by the battery, when the car is off and certain lights are turned (or accidentally left) on - and how to dramatically decrease that load with LEDs. Additionally an LED conversion also assists to remove alternator load once the car is running, as some of those same bulbs and a few others come into play.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Finally in the last section of the write up below you will will find an extensive discussion of all the bulbs used on the car, and at least one example of its LED equivalent.</div>
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So onward.</div>
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<o:p><b>PART I</b> </o:p></div>
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<u>Wonder what the max possible battery current draw is, on a parked car?</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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I sure did and asked on DMCTalk.org what was the current draw when the light switch is clicked ON, at the first setting, for a stock all incandescent bulb-ed DeLorean. This would be the reference point. <o:p></o:p></div>
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To summarize, this setting would power and light up:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Tail lamps, Driving Lights: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Front Indicators: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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License plate: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Door Lights: 4 (assumes both doors open)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Fender side driving lights: 4<o:p></o:p></div>
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Dome Lights: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Cig Lighter, illumination: 1<o:p></o:p></div>
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AC Panel, illumination: 7<o:p></o:p></div>
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Instrument cluster illumination: 5<o:p></o:p></div>
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No takers at the time on that request, but Dave McKeen from <a href="http://mysite.verizon.net/vze109dmk/">DM-Engineering</a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #417394;"> </span><span class="apple-style-span"><span style="color: black; font-family: Tahoma, sans-serif; font-size: 10pt;">did quickly </span></span>respond with a calculated value. I added a few other bulbs to that number, to match the list above, and that is what I am basing my estimate on, as a reference. The value: 6 Amps.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Even on a somewhat beefy 50-60 amp hour battery, that is for sure enough of a battery drain, to prevent a start up in a few hours. Remember that for start up, you need enough juice left for the fuel pump to prime, and for the battery sucking starter to crank the car.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>100% LED Comparison</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Method to test: Disconnect ground cable from battery. Connect ground cable to one of the multi-meter’s probe, the other probe to the battery. The meter in now in series with the current flow, and setting the meter to read current values, will make it display the resulting current draws. I trickle charged the battery overnight, in order to test with a fully charged battery. </div>
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So with all incandescent bulbs replaced with LEDs, I proceeded to test out the current draw. My base line readings were 12.62V and with a standby draw measured at 21mA; that is the current draw of the car sitting parked, doors shut, thus no lights on. That’s a pretty small draw, the only things on at that point are the clock standby power, alarm/keyless receiver, door lock module.</div>
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<u>Results?</u></div>
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Now to answer the main question, I clicked the light switch to the first position, and saw the reading go and stay at: 1.25 Amps</div>
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Yowza, recall that with incandescent bulbs it was calculated at 6 Amps, so going to LEDs <b><u>was an 80% reduction</u></b> in current draw, or <b><u>1/5th of the original load</u></b>, on the battery.<br />
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It may actually may be more because this is based on a calculated draw. Oh, and I have some foot well LEDs installed by previous owner, so that's a little draw than a stock car would see.<br />
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<u>Want to see more current drawn from the battery?</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Just for yucks I went further , here are reading with progressive loads in sequential order.<o:p></o:p></div>
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0.02 A : Car parked, no lights on.<o:p></o:p></div>
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0.17 A : Open driver’s door: (LEDs on doors and two interior dome lights)<o:p></o:p></div>
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0.28 A : Above, open other door as well.<o:p></o:p></div>
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0.42 A : Above, plus engine bay light (also an LED)<o:p></o:p></div>
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1.25 A : Above, and light switch clicked on (All interior LEDs including instrument cluster and exterior driving lights)<o:p></o:p></div>
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8.05 A : Above, and headlights on (not testing LED effect now, just seeing battery loads)<o:p></o:p></div>
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>10 A : Above, plus high beam lights (Ha. Blew 10A fuse on multi-meter).<o:p></o:p></div>
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(Remember, this load is 100% drawn from the battery, the car is not yet turned on to allow the alternator to take over, as well as to recharge the battery.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>Practical values to this?</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p>Well, as i see it, the practical values of LEDs in cars in general, and to 100% LEDs, are:</div>
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<u>1. Good way to check and maintain all your light sockets/connections</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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OK, not truly LED related, but this conversion project will have the benefit that you’ll go through and be able to inspect all your related sockets. I was lucky I only found one socket (front indicator) with some slight corrosion on it (lens was not tight). If you find something like this, depending on the size of the socket, a small file or even a wire brush on a Dremel at low settings would be a good idea. Inspecting all the sockets like this, at the end of the conversion, all your sockets will be refreshed for continued service life.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>2. Longer bulb life</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Generally a good LED will be at 50% brightness from new for a very long time; however, this is a function of the type of LEDs used, how they are packaged, and how they are used. You will not get a very long life out of a very very cheap LED bulb, and especially if you put in less that office room temperatures; there is a reason for the inexpensive ones, those are cranked out in bulk, and generally suffer shorter service lives. Because I have had good luck for a few years now with thm, I recommend buying from a well established distributor like SuperbrightLEDscom. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Note also that generally the SMD (surface mounted device) LED bulbs that are composed of yellow-ish square chips on a small circuit board, are a higher quality LEDs, are brighter, but more expensive. If you can’t afford to go all SMD LEDs, then consider those at least for high usage applications (e.g., brake lights), or very bright requirement (e.g., engine bay), applications.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>3. Larger selection of bulb colors</u></div>
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I’ve seen other owners play with different colors on the doors and the A/C panel and even the instrument cluster, with interesting and novel looks. Note though, sometimes there is a slight up charge on colors. Also, to get away from the blue-ish white and a 'warmer' white, you'll generally have to move to the SMD LEDs.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>4. Brighter light output selection</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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LEDs by default generate a very narrow dispersed light cone. LED bulb manufacturers compensate for this by putting a cluster of multiple LEDs together in different location (radially, top, sides) on one bulb, to both get more light output and better dispersion. In my case I put a 19 light LED in the foot wells, and it is very bright at night and …well that’s the next point. For certain applications, as in the tail lights, I’ve used 39 or 48 bulb LEDs.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>5. Much less heat on the housings (applies more to dome lights)</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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The differences are very great in resulting surface temperatures of an incandescent versus an LED bulb. I measured the dome light in the engine with an LED bulb, and then with the incandescent version. On a 70 degree F day, an IR thermometer on the surfaces showed LED: 81 degrees F, Incandescent: 278 degrees F. LEDs run much, much cooler.</div>
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I prevously documented this with pictures on a previous posting. <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/11/leds-are-cool.html">Posting: "LEDs are cool."</a> After that little test, it quickly became evident why I’ve seen pictures of the engine bay’s plastic housing deformed from the heat of the bulb. </div>
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<u>6. Better chance to recover from an accidental dome light left on overnight incident.</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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It happens, we leave an internal car light on overnight, and that one bulb can take a battery down, especially if the battery is not at full capacity or nearing its life. With LED bulbs, the draw is much less, and you will probably be able to restart overnight on the same conditions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>7. ….and the bling effect: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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How about, displaying your car at evening car shows with all the internal, engine bay, and external lights (excluding brake and driving headlights) on? Surely possible and for several hours, with an LED approach.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<o:p><br />
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<o:p><b>PART II</b></o:p></div>
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<b>Shopping List</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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If you are interested in converting some or all of your car’s accessory bulbs to modern LEDs, here is a breakdown of the replacement components, along with some pertinent notes. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Going 100% will add up quick, and since this was not an urgent or “must” requirement, I wound up purchasing all the items over a few years, and installing them over that time. The main supplier that I used below is Superbrightleds.com. They changed part numbers a few years ago, and their website is not the easiest to navigate, but the following information will get you there with a few mouse click contributions on your part. Note that when you see an “X” in the part numbers below, this is replaced with the proper code, when you select on the site, for the color of the LED - they use multiple "X"'s for other options, Oh, one more thing about this vendor, they process and ship orders very promptly.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">First Some Related Notes & Hardware</b><br />
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Does you car have any electrical issues with respect to lighting? Or, does your car experience large voltage fluctuations? If yours does, make sure you get that addressed first. Most of these LEDs can go as low as 10VDC, but if your electrical system is known to go under that, then consider when you put in LEDs that if you have to replace them because your car's electrical system killed them, the replacement costs for some of these can be relatively high. With that said, as I've worked on my car, and have tuned the car to eliminate hunting and experienced the resulting high/low voltage swings in the process, I have yet to burn out any of the LEDs in the process. So, just saying.</div>
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<u>Flasher Unit/Relay:</u> SuperbrightLEDs.COM, CF13GL-02 (Three pin, ground pin on left)<o:p></o:p></div>
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This part, the Hazard/Driving Indicator relay, is a requirement when you convert your front and rear indicator lights (amber ones) to LEDs. The stock relay from the 80’s doesn’t know how to handle the low load requirements of LEDs, so it actually will not make them turn on and off as fed by the turning signal or hazard warning button. A modern replacement that is compatible with LEDs is required. You can find these locally at auto parts store, just make sure it states that it is compatible with LEDs; or, you can add it to your shopping list with Superbrightleds.com (it’s well priced there too).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $10-$20 (look for them on eBay as well).<br />
Here is a link to Superbrightleds unit: <a href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/cf13gl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/782/">Flasher Relay for LEDs</a><br />
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Shown in picture above is the stock (left) relay, and the new LED compatible relay (right). Note when shopping around, #31/Ground is on the left, as shown.</div>
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<o:p>Note: It happened to me, and happened to others as well. The connector on the harness where these plug into has become very fragile over time. The connector will most likely break apart, as you try to remove the original flasher unit. Just make sure you remember or mark the correct pin to wire configuration when you put the new one in, on a damaged socket. </o:p><br />
<o:p>Note 2: One small advantage to having the socket break up, is that you can now use the flasher units with the ground pin on either side - again, just make sure you are hooking them up correct.</o:p></div>
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<u>Taillight Circuit boards</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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The second optional part of this upgrade, is the circuit board panel that hold the tail lamp lights. PJ Grady use to sell (still?) an upgraded, modern board that has over the years received many accolades. My car came with this upgrade and all information presented here was done on these boards. I can’t see why stock boards won’t work for this upgrade, but consider modernizing them if you can, older circuit boards especially if exposed to moisture tend to de-laminate internally and this creates random electrical glitches.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 2 (they are same for both sides).</div>
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PJ Grady<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $??? They aren’t listed anymore on his website.<o:p></o:p></div>
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DMCH: 101488<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $53 each. <a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/p-6917-circuit-board.aspx">DMCH Part #101488</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/101488.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/101488.jpg" /></a></div>
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<u>Dome Light Dimmer</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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If you change your dome lights, you will loose the dimming feature that the incandescent lights have. This is accomplished by a special relay in the fuse/relay area. However,since it uses 80's technology it is not compatible with today's low power, low resistance, on or off states only, LEDs. You have the option to just pull the relay (the white one) and have the LED lights either turn on or off as required, or there consider a direct modern replacement to keep the dimming functionality. DM Engineering designed and sells a solid state replacement relay, which works with either incandescent or LEDs. I am running this module and it works great, it also has a parade feature, where the LEDs can be made to blink on and off. I wrote a pre-review of it here: <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/03/sneak-preview-dome-light-relay-modern.html">"Sneak Preview: Dome Light Module - A Modern Replacement and Upgrade"</a></div>
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Dimmer Module: Module at right, example of solid state circuitry that is inside, of left</div>
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Available from: <a href="http://mysite.verizon.net/vze109dmk/">DM Engineering</a></div>
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Approximately : Please contact him through his website, link above.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">LED Kits<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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If you prefer buying in kits, I am aware of a few:<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/p-10222-led-light-kit-doors-and-domelights.aspx">LEDs for DMC kit for doors and domelights.</a><o:p></o:p><br />
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Approximately : $20</div>
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Fender Side Lights in LED: eBay vendor: tcbtexas<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $20/for the set<o:p></o:p></div>
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If you wish to use a different vendor, or not buy the kits, I’ve listed the individual LED bulbs along with the stock incandescent bulb’s designation, as a reference. Note that there are sometimes multiple designations for the same incandescent bulb type.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"><u>Individual Bulb Types</u><o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Type: Automotive Bayonet Bulbs<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Incandescent designations: 1156, BA15S, 1157, BA15D</div>
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One of the most common bulbs for automotive use. It's a bayonet mount, and it comes in either single (1156) or double post (1157) form, the latter (double post) is only used in one location in our cars, the front blinker/indicator lights.</div>
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<u>Tail lamps, Brakes: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Note 1: Ideally you want the brightest bulbs here, since they require the bulb's brightness to transmit through the rd lens, for daylight driving. The SMD versions that I’ve put on definitely do the job, but again, are the most expensive bulb here; I chose to only go SMD on the brake lights, since those are used the most in both day and night driving. For the rest of the lights I’ve used the regular multi-LED bulbs and today (in 2011) the prices of a 39 and even a 48 LED cluster bulb version, have very good daylight brightness, and are very reasonable in price.<br />
Note 2: This is a great candidate for an LED replacement. Why? At idle, as in a stop light, take your foot off and then depress the brake pedal and watch the voltage gauge. The brake lights draw a sufficient amount of power from the electrical system that you can watch the needle twitch when they are illuminated. When I went to LEDs the twitch in the gauge is barely noticeable.</div>
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Qty: 4<br />
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Incandescent: 1156<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 1156-R18-T, Red (These are SMD, and pricey, but they are the higher quality and this is an application that gets a lot of use. See discussion above on quality and usage.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $16/each</div>
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Cheaper alternative: Red, GP Thunder GP1156-39R, eBay seller: premiertek_com <o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $5/for a pair.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Here's a picture of the "GP Thunder" bulbs that I am referencing throughout. They are a very recent purchase, and while these are not the highest quality, they were cheap and are being used in low usage applications (reverse, blinkers), so we'll see how they do over time. You can use the picture and specifications to try different brands.</div>
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<u>Tail lamps, Driving Lights: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Incandescent: 1156<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: Red, GP Thunder GP1156-48R, eBay seller: premiertek_com <o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $5/for a pair.<o:p></o:p></div>
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…if you do a lot of night time driving, these may be also a good candidate for the higher quality, more expensive ones identified above, for the brake lights.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Tail lamps, Reverse: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Incandescent: 1156<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: White, GP Thunder GP1156-48W, eBay seller: premiertek_com <o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $5/for a pair.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Tail lamps, Indicator: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Incandescent: 1156<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: Amber, GP Thunder GP1156-39A, eBay seller: premiertek_com <o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $5/for a pair.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Taillight assembly, with all incandescent from several years ago.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAKyQ0pHXrur-6OzUbtuXrQLXI4PRTlnLN0K1MiA02onTCgmP8QuZPR0kMnGw7hvyo1KP03ZTtnLjnSddJ4vAeR1H-r7pum-jYpZXgr7-2_db5mSb1F234t02dthV1s0tvo30LgXVEVc/s1600/Taillight+LEDs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXAKyQ0pHXrur-6OzUbtuXrQLXI4PRTlnLN0K1MiA02onTCgmP8QuZPR0kMnGw7hvyo1KP03ZTtnLjnSddJ4vAeR1H-r7pum-jYpZXgr7-2_db5mSb1F234t02dthV1s0tvo30LgXVEVc/s320/Taillight+LEDs.jpg" height="134" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p> Taillight assembly today, with all LEDs.</o:p></div>
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<u>Front Indicators:</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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Incandescent: 1157<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: Amber, GP Thunder GP1157-18A, eBay seller: premiertek_com<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $5/for a pair.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Note: These are also a great candidate for an LED replacement. Why? Check the notes above about the brake lights.</div>
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Shown, LEDs installed in front indicator lights.</div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">TYPE: FESTOON BULBS</b><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkrZHE2CtHzSd34NsOe6FhnIrJwxttW11eBdjqnzURUzpAstH2-ECw9bJJpOMel1Ct6qqnFh8wOPlUtl0VDjwOSdPa35cD7XgTZEoIMEfZKSqgh1iQASX1q4_G0D5n4KjYt9EucZn8hU/s1600/Festoon+Incandescent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEkrZHE2CtHzSd34NsOe6FhnIrJwxttW11eBdjqnzURUzpAstH2-ECw9bJJpOMel1Ct6qqnFh8wOPlUtl0VDjwOSdPa35cD7XgTZEoIMEfZKSqgh1iQASX1q4_G0D5n4KjYt9EucZn8hU/s200/Festoon+Incandescent.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
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Incandescent designation: Festoon bulb, most are L=38mm, I believe the engine bay is L=44mm.</div>
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Note 1: Because of their application requirements (low heat and high brightness), I prefer the SMD version of the festoon LED bulbs; however I have provided alternatives below as non SMD verions.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Note 2: These are prime candidate for LED replacements, as the incandescent versions run very, very hot. </div>
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Note 3: These “festoon” type bulbs are not always the exact length required, but the socket can contacts can be easily (and carefully) bent to adjust to the proper fit.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>License plate: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 2<o:p></o:p></div>
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L=38mm<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3610-X4 (I went with SMDs here because I wanted brightness and a more of an original color/warm white). </div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $3/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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Alternative: DMC SP11305 (or SP11304, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $3/each.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Bonnet:</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 1<o:p></o:p></div>
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L=38mm<o:p></o:p></div>
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Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3710-XHP3 (I went with SMDs here because I wanted brightness and a Approximately : $8/each There is an even brighter version (3710-XHP6), but I am not sure that it will fit (I'll updated here once I know otherwise.)</div>
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Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3610-X4: $3/each</div>
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Alternative LED: DMC SP11305 (or SP11304, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $3/each.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEL0IO6EH9ZbGsMMHW-E_v-gDlsUjF4cOj-GSfv8grpblcT7HRfB1cck_I2SPqXx5GmxIr0OX6l_l4xk3epV6tUkCn1BTREd_oQuK2UvYK4-LAIBSayGZOd1hGvYkdkDNW-MCPZutTkFs/s1600/Bonnet+Light+Cool+Blue+and+Warm+White.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEL0IO6EH9ZbGsMMHW-E_v-gDlsUjF4cOj-GSfv8grpblcT7HRfB1cck_I2SPqXx5GmxIr0OX6l_l4xk3epV6tUkCn1BTREd_oQuK2UvYK4-LAIBSayGZOd1hGvYkdkDNW-MCPZutTkFs/s320/Bonnet+Light+Cool+Blue+and+Warm+White.jpg" height="320" width="181" /></a></div>
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<o:p>Above is the bonnet light pulled out for a bulb replacement, it comes out easily enough with a little pull on the edges. The picture also shows the difference between "Cool Blue" and "Warm White". The former gives a more modern look, the latter looks more authentic to the original look of an incandescent bulb.</o:p></div>
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<u>Engine bay: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 1<o:p></o:p></div>
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L=44 mm<o:p></o:p></div>
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Incandescent: Festoon bulb<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 4210-XHP6 (I chose the warm white so “X” was “WW”).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $15/each. These are expensive but much brighter (has 6 SMDs) and higher quality than the alternative. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 39101-x6<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $2/each.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Alternative LED: DMC SP11304 (or SP11305, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)<br />
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Approximately : $3/each.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Dome Lights:</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhduLvKZsdDbPfBUB9nOzR1z_t5qts9IdOjg9PoRSeAMZtX3t1pp8o_kz5wj9roK5CNdNWjkkpaM1AMU-higfehiIeiF2Z5n_34xf_FBGEHXDDz-ef3dqO2pGnBmKFcuYn5my6L5REwYU/s1600/Dome+Light.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhduLvKZsdDbPfBUB9nOzR1z_t5qts9IdOjg9PoRSeAMZtX3t1pp8o_kz5wj9roK5CNdNWjkkpaM1AMU-higfehiIeiF2Z5n_34xf_FBGEHXDDz-ef3dqO2pGnBmKFcuYn5my6L5REwYU/s320/Dome+Light.jpg" height="227" width="320" /></a></div>
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Carefully pry the dome light housing around the edge, to bright it down to access the bulbs.</div>
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Qty 2</div>
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L=38 mm<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3710-xHP3 ( for Front & Rear):<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $8/each These are expensive but much brighter and higher quality than the alternative.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3911-x6<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $2/each.<o:p></o:p></div>
Alternative: DMC SP11304 (or SP11305, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)<br />
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Approximately : $3/each.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">TYPE: WEDGE BULBS<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh097zjrBx6tgf-GI4-bkPeWDq7254zQmf1e38NztM1jyMZP1i27ODdtWjeM-jgcmfejB3ZqC8gDd5jPJX9NQZs4fRkvxj4_3B5QFcdTMbkMfIiLsslQMb3BOPEeI9O1INCBRyh063FpsE/s1600/Bulb+161.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh097zjrBx6tgf-GI4-bkPeWDq7254zQmf1e38NztM1jyMZP1i27ODdtWjeM-jgcmfejB3ZqC8gDd5jPJX9NQZs4fRkvxj4_3B5QFcdTMbkMfIiLsslQMb3BOPEeI9O1INCBRyh063FpsE/s200/Bulb+161.jpg" height="200" width="200" /></a></div>
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Incandescent designations: Wedge base, Miniature Lamp, 168, 194<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Door Lights: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 6 (4 amber and 2 red)<o:p></o:p></div>
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I've not purchased these individually, but if I did, I'd lean towards this:</div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, WLED Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs, WLED-X5, 220 degree beam<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $3/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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However, others have listed that they've used these wider diameter ones:</div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, T13-X6</div>
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Alternative: <a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/p-10360-led-light-kit-doors-only.aspx">DMCH LED Door Kit</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/K111532.jpg">https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/K111532.jpg</a><br />
Approximately : $15/set.<o:p></o:p></div>
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I previously posted a how-to on these: <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2010/04/let-leds-light-your-wings.html">Posting: "Let LEDs light your wings."</a><o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwI-poumjqwjHSjMtRhaBL6604yOq8kBYJEz1fidhk75XgzDhNgWFGqYme4cYaSmkxq5NrVpiHYyNbgcAUvcjzaDD92kizstcuHwymlOSkq70fwuCblgko2Y6ZZBmK-FiduWXmTbdiWU/s1600/Door+LEDs+old.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitwI-poumjqwjHSjMtRhaBL6604yOq8kBYJEz1fidhk75XgzDhNgWFGqYme4cYaSmkxq5NrVpiHYyNbgcAUvcjzaDD92kizstcuHwymlOSkq70fwuCblgko2Y6ZZBmK-FiduWXmTbdiWU/s320/Door+LEDs+old.jpg" height="312" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkVgbi5zxUrP5Igyn8Lypxqu714avX1dwkdSW3I0efZCeiTHCAAUId8UEL22bJUD8WYJeDPLGTxV1KueAfnSUQR-CbHU-Y3wS1atby9UpYby9Me6kt8a_dumF9VlFS1VvPIZYyeTqwDc/s1600/Door+LEDs+new.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkkVgbi5zxUrP5Igyn8Lypxqu714avX1dwkdSW3I0efZCeiTHCAAUId8UEL22bJUD8WYJeDPLGTxV1KueAfnSUQR-CbHU-Y3wS1atby9UpYby9Me6kt8a_dumF9VlFS1VvPIZYyeTqwDc/s320/Door+LEDs+new.jpg" height="292" width="320" /></a></div>
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Above are two pictures of the same door light. It's interesting to note that in BOTH pictures, there are LEDs behind the lens. The picture on top were the LEDs that came with the car, they were probably five years old and cost a lot, the bottom picture is the same lens, now with a modern $3.00 LED inside. This really shows how the technology has evolved (brighter and cheaper).</div>
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<o:p><br />
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<u>Instrument Cluster:</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty 15 (There are 16, but you do NOT replace the incandescent battery indicator bulb.)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Of the 15, five are for panel illumination, the rest are gauge indicators, these could be in "Cool White" or "Warm White" or just go crazy with other colors.</div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, WLED Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs, WLED-X5, 220 degree beam</div>
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Note 1. The battery indicator bulb MUST remain incandescent or your car will not start – that is the way the car’s electrical system was designed, the bulb is part of the circuit.<br />
Note 2. Others have experimented with colors here, I find that that “cool white” is a little too blue for my preferences with respect to the vintage of the car, so I went with the “warm white” version. <o:p></o:p><br />
Note 3. For the panel illumination, you need the LEDs to replicate the very wide light angle that an incandescent bulb has. This is because their sockets are at 90 degrees to the plane of the panel, and the light needs to fill in through the sides. The 220 degree beam version LEDs, will accomplish this task.</div>
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Of the remaining 10, you will need to get 1 Blue, 1 Amber, 3 Green, 5 Red</div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, WLED Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs, WLED-X1, 90 degree beam<br />
Approximately : $3/each<br />
Note: You don't need a high angle beam for the indicators, since they mostly need the light from the LED to project straight ahead.<br />
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<o:p><o:p>Here is a shot of my dash some years ago, with all incandescent bulbs</o:p>.</o:p></div>
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This is what it looks like today, with all "white warm" LEDs. It is brighter and sharper with LEDs, but not too bright. I think the 220 degree beam angle really did the trick. I think that in the picture below, though, the LEDs looks more blue-ish than they really are. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNkK6lrHJ4yi8F55CWVx6ubrmx8JQXFojBLfK94THs-YBRiv3uyMpDhl9iVY4JErtmBW0eBacQnOxqtU0EyyLeALNB6fWBNh7t4czOojBjWU55ELH6MuakEtlVqbGm1muJBEt_uYfcx8/s1600/Dashboard+LEDs.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBNkK6lrHJ4yi8F55CWVx6ubrmx8JQXFojBLfK94THs-YBRiv3uyMpDhl9iVY4JErtmBW0eBacQnOxqtU0EyyLeALNB6fWBNh7t4czOojBjWU55ELH6MuakEtlVqbGm1muJBEt_uYfcx8/s320/Dashboard+LEDs.jpg" height="146" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b>TYPE: </b><b>Small </b><b>Bayonet A7</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAuiWtsT3k8SMLMqb5qBsFi2BwB72570UjmTHy4WxmGmfX2uN6Tfea6L2JsJliHTbE1e2Sb2sXcPKZKek8SDnRDz0ZHHZ3FJG-1qR6yP-rRKgGRbLnCvk0iRohiMR3HGEoovcRejqWXQ/s1600/Incandescent+3898.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoAuiWtsT3k8SMLMqb5qBsFi2BwB72570UjmTHy4WxmGmfX2uN6Tfea6L2JsJliHTbE1e2Sb2sXcPKZKek8SDnRDz0ZHHZ3FJG-1qR6yP-rRKgGRbLnCvk0iRohiMR3HGEoovcRejqWXQ/s1600/Incandescent+3898.jpg" /></a></div>
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Incandescent designation: 3898</div>
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<u>AC Panel, illumination:</u></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty 7</div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, BA7s-X, color: “cool white”, 100 degree beam. Others have experimented with good results with red ones for the indicator (bottom three) lights.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $1/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgah0v64ibe4mApqFjtSjpnhqyeWOvU67-O_jUvTf1TuwPA1OFBUr2fJaWmWC1gykp9MSvcb0RiCGhuda7CeI_Hnq0nPNV7r7r3oGg07Loi5DQkT-uy3vaM4ahDIeSY6PYfAEmZ8dZfS1A/s1600/AC+Panel.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgah0v64ibe4mApqFjtSjpnhqyeWOvU67-O_jUvTf1TuwPA1OFBUr2fJaWmWC1gykp9MSvcb0RiCGhuda7CeI_Hnq0nPNV7r7r3oGg07Loi5DQkT-uy3vaM4ahDIeSY6PYfAEmZ8dZfS1A/s320/AC+Panel.jpg" height="250" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div>
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<o:p>Shown above, the AC panel, one of the indicator bulbs pulled out for reference.</o:p></div>
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<b>TYPE: </b><b>Small </b><b>Bayonet A9</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzC9H598VDuHCVQmTtN0N5KFVEhwmQNOqlE4GPBqpWfVc2TPqjoBPHwEIcY2_9TKZ7QxKALZ4QDBvgAbargJiXjzVm9Dqfikv_Fq2eDWq7HDR9XgnBwXs8f1RXhS-Z0Gb2Qrm2JqUQN3I/s1600/Incandescent+1829b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzC9H598VDuHCVQmTtN0N5KFVEhwmQNOqlE4GPBqpWfVc2TPqjoBPHwEIcY2_9TKZ7QxKALZ4QDBvgAbargJiXjzVm9Dqfikv_Fq2eDWq7HDR9XgnBwXs8f1RXhS-Z0Gb2Qrm2JqUQN3I/s1600/Incandescent+1829b.jpg" /></a></div>
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Incandescent designation: BA9, 1819, 1829</div>
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<u>Fender side driving lights</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty: 4 ( front: 2, amber; rear: 2, red)<o:p></o:p></div>
LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, <i>BA9S-x4-x-12V (Specify R for Red, A for Amber)</i><br />
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Approximately : $2/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b>TYPE: WEDGE BULBS, Minis</b></div>
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Incandescent designations: Automotive Miniature Bulb, 17, 18, 37, 70, 73, 79, 85, 86</div>
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<u>Light switch:</u></div>
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty 1<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 74-X, color: “cool white”, 100 degree beam.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $1/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Hazard switch: </u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty 1<o:p></o:p></div>
LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 74-X, color: “red”, 100 degree beam.<br />
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Approximately : $1/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Cig Lighter:</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty 1<o:p></o:p></div>
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LED: Superbright: 74-X I went with green, 100 degree, not much illumination here, perhaps I'd go with white next time, or a more powerful bulb (as long as it is the same size).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $1/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">TYPE: ODDBALL BULB<o:p></o:p></b></div>
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Incandescent: T10, threaded <i>(Edit 06/24/2013: To be more specific, if you are looking for this bulb in an incandescent version search the internet or eBay for "T10 flashlight bulb 12v".)</i><o:p></o:p></div>
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<u>Glove box</u><o:p></o:p></div>
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Qty 1<o:p></o:p><br />
<br />
<i>EDIT: Sorry folks, either this bulb changed from when I bought it because now this is exclusively for 9V applications. See below for updated recommendations.</i><br />
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++</div>
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LED: E10-WHP, an oddball not easy to find, has a screw in E10 type socket. Found in “other” section at SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM (<a href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=OTHER">http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=OTHER</a> )<o:p></o:p></div>
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Approximately : $10/each<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6DE0mAWgN3VQEcNCkdbAEGLJG7vMXdkOBs9qEPkz7NSdJBeBJirwRHAxr7axhA__qraC7j6cyLRfOZBOnRzwjB57ZO-E7YN19rsqHeVqKNAIu0C6_wm2OmW7wYAbpzGl5M-8i14SDRDY/s1600/LED+T10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6DE0mAWgN3VQEcNCkdbAEGLJG7vMXdkOBs9qEPkz7NSdJBeBJirwRHAxr7axhA__qraC7j6cyLRfOZBOnRzwjB57ZO-E7YN19rsqHeVqKNAIu0C6_wm2OmW7wYAbpzGl5M-8i14SDRDY/s1600/LED+T10.jpg" /></a></div>
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The "oddball" a threaded T10 LED bulb.</div>
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++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++<br />
<i>Alternative:<br />
Cory W. has identified a possible better and more inexpensive solution here:</i> <a href="http://www.dealextreme.com/p/e10-1-2w-6500k-70-lumen-5-smd-led-car-white-light-bulbs-pair-dc-12v-51359?utm_source=googleps&utm_medium=Merchant&utm_content=51359&utm_campaign=MerchantUSD">Alternative source for E10 LED</a><br />
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<a href="http://www1.dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_51359_1_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www1.dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_51359_1_small.jpg" /></a></div>
<i>Also, I am finding that these are very popular in the scale model railroad applications. If you search ebay for "E10 LED" you will find many hits for this LED bulb, and even in different colors. Just watch the volume above the threaded base, you don't want to exceed what is shown in the picture above.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Update July 20th, 2013:</i><br />
<i>I went into a lot more detail on a new blog entry, on the glove box and LEDs recommended above, details are here: </i><i><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-deloreans-glove-box-lighting.html">The DeLorean's Glove Box and Lighting</a></i><br />
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<o:p><br />
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<o:p><b>In closing...</b></o:p></div>
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I’ve done to the best of my recollection and research, on my own time, to describe as accurately as possible the best fit choices, so don’t be upset if I may have made a mistake along the way and caused you to order something incorrectly. Please assume full responsibility on your order of LED bulbs, your best bet is to pull out the replacement candidate first, and compare them against the picture on the website of your choosing. Doing so, you may also wish to experiment with bigger, brighter, different color, LED bulbs than specified above, just make sure that check the diameter and length for proper fit into the socket(s).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Hope this has been of value and is a future useful reference. I must say that as a result of running all LEDs, I was very pleased with an 80% reduction to the battery, on a the first light switch press, as well as to see a minimal draw at the voltage gauge, while running at idle from the current draw of incandescent brake lights and signal indicators.</div>
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Good luck with your LED conversion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyNV8MxzM4bq7UGimuLn6L-MWqINVTYjZQmwZeM8NCumLfIEvxp8j5jhvDmyx0PJvV46hOSX077Il_1rubQunfNGhLVrfeF4zuJtBrGKZS-gkYu2Y7LaQD1h-tjIOPg3Pl7sRHcRubPzY/s1600/Rear+Shot.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyNV8MxzM4bq7UGimuLn6L-MWqINVTYjZQmwZeM8NCumLfIEvxp8j5jhvDmyx0PJvV46hOSX077Il_1rubQunfNGhLVrfeF4zuJtBrGKZS-gkYu2Y7LaQD1h-tjIOPg3Pl7sRHcRubPzY/s320/Rear+Shot.jpg" height="276" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><br />
</b><br />
<b>Update, 1 month later:</b><br />
<br />
So I've had 100% LEDs for over a month now, and driving every weekend with this mod. I love that the volt gauge barely moves now when I apply brakes, and when my Son was down from college, he was very surprised at how bright the brake lights were in LEDs.<br />
<br />
There are two things though that I should note:<br />
The amber LED bulb cluster, make the rear turn signals a reddish-orange. I think that white LED bulbs may have been better, yet they look great in front.<br />
The new LED compatible flasher relay (as above, sourced from SuperBrightLEDs) makes the hazard and blinking function work perfectly with all LEDs, but note that it is much quieter than the stock unit (which will not make your LEDs blink). If you're playing the radio loud, or just revving the engine high, the click-click sound is not as prominent as on the original.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Update, 22 months later:</b><br />
All still running well. Prices have come down even further, but the SMD type bulbs are still the better buy, so get those if you can.<br />
<br />
As promised above, here is a comprehensive PDF document that lists of all the bulbs in our cars and their incandescent and LED substitutes. Sample and link below. Enjoy.<br />
<b><br /></b>
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<a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8tZLEiyQMrAQVFraXNnbUpFalk/image?pagenumber=1&w=800" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8tZLEiyQMrAQVFraXNnbUpFalk/image?pagenumber=1&w=800" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Link to: <a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8tZLEiyQMrAQVFraXNnbUpFalk/edit?usp=sharing" style="text-align: center;">DMC-12 Incandescent and LED Bulb Reference</a> document</div>
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<strong><br /></strong></div>
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<strong>Update: July 2013</strong><strong><br /></strong></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
A fellow DeLorean owner, Alex A. (Vin 6575) just published a related blog, in which he shows a similar LED conversion on his car. Others have also done LED bulb conversions on their car, but I encourage you to visit his site, as he has a lot of installation pictures as very good references.<strong><br /></strong></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<a href="http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2013/07/upgrading-to-led-lights-and-dealing.html">"Upgrading to LED Lights And Dealing With A Taillight Circuit Board Issue"</a></div>
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==================================================<br />
If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', Trebuchet, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">postings of this site. Thanks.</span><br />
<br /></div>
Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-45862478826501456542011-07-08T14:56:00.000-04:002011-07-08T14:56:49.852-04:00The 2011 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated<div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The 2011 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </span></b></span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The data of DMC-12s sold on eBay for the last 57 months, up through the June of 2011, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format. </span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the direct link </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">click here</span></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thanks. </span></span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></span></span></span></div></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span></span></span></div></div></div></div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-3924293452465281482011-02-28T23:59:00.002-05:002011-03-01T13:06:24.229-05:00Can you see me now?<div class="MsoNormal"><br />
This month’s posting is from a quick and effective project that I performed three years ago. The project was about improving blind spots through our mirrors.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Rear and side visibility is very important in day to day driving, and more so in a car that rides as low such as the DeLorean. Despite the rear louvers, I find rear visibility to be quite good, the major opportunities however with the side blind spots. The glass on the rear quarter panels does allow some sort of visibility to the sides, say in a lane change, but the real opportunity is with the side/door mirrors. There are several things that can be done to improve this.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><ol start="1" style="margin-top: 0in;" type="1"><li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;">Change the angle of the mirrors. Most of us were trained to set up our mirrors to be able to see a portion of the side of the car, as a reference. There is a different way to set up these mirrors, which decreases blind spots, and it is done by setting them up in coordination with the rear view mirror. To set them up this way, at a normal driving position, you observe what is visible on your rear view mirror, and note what is visible on the left end of the rear view mirror. Then you set up your left side mirror to duplicate the end point of the left side of the rear view mirror, with the right edge of the left side mirror. This will mean that the mirror will need to be rotated probably to its extreme outward position, and the side of your car will no longer be visible on the mirror. You do the same for the right side. What you then have, at a glance from rear view mirror, to either mirror, is a transition, a transition which nearly eliminates your car's blind spots. I implemented this on all our cars at home a few years ago, and will never go back. I can now quickly evaluate safe driving conditions for a lane merge, with this method with only using the mirrors. This works best with larger mirrors, and thus not as optimal with our DeLorean mirrors.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;">Change the standard side mirrors to the Convex or Multi-vex types. Most modern cars come with a convex passenger side mirror. These are the ones with the “Objects in mirror appear farther than they are”, because it allows a greater field of view by optically altering the view and results in objects looking farther away than in actuality. There are also “Multi-vex” type mirrors which are basically a convex mirror, but further optically alter the view at the mirror’s farthest end.</li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;">Combine option 1 and 2 above. This is what I chose to do.</li>
</ol><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: .5in;">More details and pictures to follow.<o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
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If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> postings. Thanks.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-60419039261255006232011-01-15T22:52:00.000-05:002011-01-15T22:52:06.281-05:00DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2010 EOY Update<div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The 2010 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </span></b></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 51 months, up through the end of 2010, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format. </span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the direct link </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">click here</span></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span></span></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"> </span></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thanks. </span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></span></span></span></div></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span></span></span></div></div></div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-10008170053970981912010-12-25T13:49:00.003-05:002010-12-25T17:25:53.044-05:00Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all<div></div><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_pQXhHgfcOznxaxAp97-NfbDLGUPRwNVP08S4CpFWJITnyIBdq8ot4iEILFG3RmVImWcGiL1aF8ybSf-2f1MAt4ZDUyhysjFxDxilA_y1tuwYaWaL8AqWI52GbFZVzP_sCozrv7_DJzY/s1600/BTTF+Tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_pQXhHgfcOznxaxAp97-NfbDLGUPRwNVP08S4CpFWJITnyIBdq8ot4iEILFG3RmVImWcGiL1aF8ybSf-2f1MAt4ZDUyhysjFxDxilA_y1tuwYaWaL8AqWI52GbFZVzP_sCozrv7_DJzY/s320/BTTF+Tree.jpg" width="161" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to all.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">Yup, haven't posted in a while but I am still around and so is 2109. I haven't posted topics in the last few months, but I intend to do so much more in 2011, because:</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">* I am now set up for mobile blogging and that allows me to upload content on the fly.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> Like this posting.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">* I continue to track eBay sales of all DeLoreans, so starting in January I'll post the final 2010 summary.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">* Have</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><u style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;">got</u></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">to document a serious weight reduction effort, which has made the car a lil' bit faster.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">* Will be starting (finally) the front suspension work in January. Which as I did on the rear suspension, I will document tips and lessons learned.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">So tune back in, in 2011.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;"><br style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 14px;" /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 14px;">Hope you all have a great, fun, and safe Holiday, along with the best wishes on a great 2011.</span><br />
</span></span><br />
<div><br />
</div></div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-13567146876249820712010-07-27T00:01:00.001-04:002010-07-27T00:01:03.830-04:00DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2010 Q2 Update<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px;"><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The 2010 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </span></b></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 45 months, is summarized in a graph and table format. </span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">For the direct link </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">click here</span></span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">. </span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Thanks. </span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: normal; white-space: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div><div style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: medium;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span></div></div></span></span>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-79646889131257317942010-06-12T14:27:00.002-04:002010-06-12T14:38:51.130-04:00Car Care App, Review & Use<div class="MsoNormal"><b>Introduction</b> </div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Following this blog’s theme of "D" maintenance and upkeep, I think and trust that you'll find this an appropriate posting. This is about an an iPhone app, called “Car Care” ($4.99). Note that this app also works on the iPod Touch and the new iPads, and works just as well in Imperial or Metric units.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHdmCotToNFgiw5MB9F9t9V-BLQHjCTCoK3hPZptjuiPAyln3hhxl85j-sO7LTUuMyoVyvLnuAass8D9cfZZrpsHuwyt2OUaMV55eC6lX9EfISNKKLBo9VmJqqVE3eHluUzD8K6VGGy8g/s1600/icon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHdmCotToNFgiw5MB9F9t9V-BLQHjCTCoK3hPZptjuiPAyln3hhxl85j-sO7LTUuMyoVyvLnuAass8D9cfZZrpsHuwyt2OUaMV55eC6lX9EfISNKKLBo9VmJqqVE3eHluUzD8K6VGGy8g/s320/icon.JPG" /></a></div><o:p><br />
</o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Car Care has been around for a while, it was one of the first applications of its kind on the iPhone. I've been using it for nearly two years now, so this review is based on the practical usage, and not just on the recent discovery of an app. Today there are others, and I have tried a few of them, but they are either poor copies of Car Car, or none of them can do everything, or as thorough, as this one. Additionally the author, Karl Becker, encourages and replies to feedback.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
<b>What is does</b><br />
<b><br />
</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal">In a nutshell, this handy little program when properly fed with data (takes discipline, but it's a quick process), will provide you with: MPG performance, maintenance history and reminders, as well as a history/summary of ownership details and vital car facts.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p> </div><div class="MsoNormal">Here is a shot of the opening screen, you can enter and track one, or all the cars the car that you own with this app. As you can seem you can customize this screen with your own background pictures. <br />
<br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLojkXiNHIWR7B_jBukilfE4kT89hsgMMiERY_eMwCdFNySkvJxvOVg_dXUKbUBJFA_vBY_UdJyi1PXCl2ph1aYO13UKOpkwhrXRrsWG58ZTfct09J6jGNCxDHqe5k0PB7u1I7oEZldQ/s1600/MainScreen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLojkXiNHIWR7B_jBukilfE4kT89hsgMMiERY_eMwCdFNySkvJxvOVg_dXUKbUBJFA_vBY_UdJyi1PXCl2ph1aYO13UKOpkwhrXRrsWG58ZTfct09J6jGNCxDHqe5k0PB7u1I7oEZldQ/s320/MainScreen.jpg" /></a></div><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Fuel Mileage History: Features</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Once your vehicle(s) are set up, it then all starts with a gas fill up. You record type (set once if you always pump the same type), gallon (or liters) used, cost per gallon (or liters), and the odometer reading (miles or km). The entry screen looks like this:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJhsT4N1VN_zWF8u3VSk0OaKh2lzoG3V6juppwA0lHguTFodFDYuUgqAvdpvnE84elNqkTmHhHc5FdHpkPh-IVRqIU3vYY31Nn4Gs-yAdSr0vsO-YjS52KHZtsAtXhkSdew7J_g-0CZuI/s1600/IMG_0357.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJhsT4N1VN_zWF8u3VSk0OaKh2lzoG3V6juppwA0lHguTFodFDYuUgqAvdpvnE84elNqkTmHhHc5FdHpkPh-IVRqIU3vYY31Nn4Gs-yAdSr0vsO-YjS52KHZtsAtXhkSdew7J_g-0CZuI/s320/IMG_0357.jpg" /></a></div><br />
It then automatically records the approximate (GPS synch speed sometimes throws it off) location, total fill cost, date and time. The manual entry work is done in under 30 seconds, so it’s quick and easy to collect and enter this data just after a fill up. So far this data is just record keeping, but the more you use it the better the available information becomes available.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">On your second and follow up fills (can be partial fills as well), you then begin to create an MPG and vehicle history. Within a few entries, the program then will provide you a reasonably accurate summary of:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">MPG average with graph (Selectable for all data or for a period of time).</div><div class="MsoNormal">Fuel cost graph, interesting to see the fluctuations over time.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Total fuel Cost</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Avg Fuel Cost</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Total distance logged</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Fuel Cost per mile</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">MPG average, best, worst, and if you vary type, the avg by type of fuel.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Carbon footprint</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Largest fuel fill</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Most & Least Expensive fuel purchased</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Avg Distance per fill</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Avg Days between fills</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
Here is the "Vehicle Stats" page, for my daily driver (two iPhone screen fulls combined for clarity):<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MiqQ7-7ZlamfWlSG8ZT6nzcUJaxUa5cZT2rGWTmpsop0Gyryq7E_v2PS8fKWFLbkFxdnni-F5WTvmgO3udoe-15L6wnRi3Jd8xv3Sj0Go1AXE4EXZW-h7TPvn0kBelsVapsncLRO8Lc/s1600/Full+Screen.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1MiqQ7-7ZlamfWlSG8ZT6nzcUJaxUa5cZT2rGWTmpsop0Gyryq7E_v2PS8fKWFLbkFxdnni-F5WTvmgO3udoe-15L6wnRi3Jd8xv3Sj0Go1AXE4EXZW-h7TPvn0kBelsVapsncLRO8Lc/s320/Full+Screen.JPG" /></a></div><br />
<br />
The "Graphs" screen shows your MPG performance on top, and a historical price of fuel cost/volume.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr1b26ZXd0lEP9fpzp9f5eFhuPinzCeXgpA9G4X9oNxFITp7E9sf1m-nc2h7s67o7i_2NcVHSqBGpoRYhKZMdUXYstGLisa54C2H2-ZQdeiN757xYxzUcsrJCXABrWxTVGhdpdvDhewaE/s1600/IMG_0360.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr1b26ZXd0lEP9fpzp9f5eFhuPinzCeXgpA9G4X9oNxFITp7E9sf1m-nc2h7s67o7i_2NcVHSqBGpoRYhKZMdUXYstGLisa54C2H2-ZQdeiN757xYxzUcsrJCXABrWxTVGhdpdvDhewaE/s320/IMG_0360.jpg" /></a></div><pic05><br />
</pic05></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><b>Fuel Mileage History:</b></span> Usage</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Looking at the summary above, it is certainly more data than you’d ever want, but this data is as useful as you make it, especially if you use the resulting information above to track to a goal and or to monitor performance.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Let me provide you with a recent example of how this data recently came in handy. Our other non-D quirky/classic car recently has started showing a drop in MPG performance from previous months of identical usage. Something changed, and it triggered us to think what it could have been. We recently found that one of the disk calipers was binding on a rotor, and we addressed it. In gasoline fill ups after that, we observed that the MPGs started to go back up. That’s a good example of how these types of programs can assist us to ensure that our classic (quirky) cars, are kept reliable and well maintained.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Maintenance History and Reminders: Features</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The second major feature of this program has to do with maintenance, and I think that while this is generally useful, it becomes a handy preventative maintenance tool for owners of older cars.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Similar to the MPG data and results, you also record a vehicle maintenance by category and sub category, at what mileage it was performed, and the associated cost. You can then also set it up for automatic reminders at selectable intervals, for follow up maintenance. For example, the most obvious one being an oil change, you can have the program remind you of the follow up oil change based on either miles or time period elapsed. While that seems mundane and easy enough to not need a software program, you can also put in service reminders for many other pre-defined or custom maintenance or recommended manufacturer intervals.<br />
<br />
This picture shows the Maintenance reminders on our Supra. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMm1Sv7NE2q_V3avtB_5uFfLhe4K5jI3_00fegMISa4Hz53VVmMc-8saNKw1WF0IAQfJVkPkAucsSo3RbIiNvHatpIsnmdsMGZVcrF8U1qpS-pyJk6HTi6Cm-Fe2kx9VA4TzzcjodVFY4/s1600/IMG_0361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMm1Sv7NE2q_V3avtB_5uFfLhe4K5jI3_00fegMISa4Hz53VVmMc-8saNKw1WF0IAQfJVkPkAucsSo3RbIiNvHatpIsnmdsMGZVcrF8U1qpS-pyJk6HTi6Cm-Fe2kx9VA4TzzcjodVFY4/s320/IMG_0361.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<br />
Once they are triggered they turn red, and you are reminded to check here at the app's icon, and each time you launch the app.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Tip: On newer vehicles, always reference your service guide for service recommendation, most shops including car dealer shops, often add intervals or services ($$) inside those factory recommendations. When in doubt, check your vehicle's manual for the official recommendations.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">The service reminders are triggered by the odometer and date input from your gas fill ups, and you are offered pop up maintenance reminders, as well as a symbol reminder on the main screen in the form of a wrench on an orange box next to the associated vehicle(s), and the apps icon (number of reminders). </div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNT7q48omy6ONBmx25izl0ULUcpwik9098VNvqJ89RNS877z4huOZC3793CNUJR3SE27h-bIl5UuM9lOeRAn3QPEMUa8WSs-opgGSM5dDIs-YicFyjF4SL5GVQf_lAo-qnXbYWluYlWec/s1600/IconReminder.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNT7q48omy6ONBmx25izl0ULUcpwik9098VNvqJ89RNS877z4huOZC3793CNUJR3SE27h-bIl5UuM9lOeRAn3QPEMUa8WSs-opgGSM5dDIs-YicFyjF4SL5GVQf_lAo-qnXbYWluYlWec/s320/IconReminder.JPG" /></a></div><br />
<br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Perhaps not as useful, but interesting to compare amongst your different vehicles, the program does summarize all work done with the following statistics:</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">Total Service Cost (this is sometimes a scary number, with older, quirky/unique/classic cars)</div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal">Service Cost per mile</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Maintenance History and Reminders: Usage</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><o:p></o:p></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><div class="MsoNormal"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">I have found the maintenance reminder feature very handy in setting up service reminders which I would have otherwise not recalled, such as for coolant flushes (once every 18 months, or 12K miles, is what I follow for good clean system), and tire rotations (worth it to follow as long as possible, to extend the time in having to purchase new tires).</div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><br />
</div></div><div class="MsoNormal"></div>If you have old service records you could also enter them in this app, sure there’s paper records; however, I find that having this type of information at your disposal (in your pocket) is a) handy when shopping for parts and you are not near the stack of receipts, and b) great for preventative maintenance e.g., anywhere, at a glance, you can see when the last time a clutch slave was changed, and how long it lasted in use, and even the part number or its equivalent cross over number for reference (e.g., out of town, looking for a 25 year old part).</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Feature: Data Back Up</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">It would be a crime if you recorded all this data, and you change or worse lose your mobile device, because you would lose all this data and information. Cleverly the author allows the data for each car recorded to be emailed to you, as a text file, which imports into Excel well enough. If you wish, once in Excel you can dig deeper into data analysis, if you are so inclined.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal"><b>Summary:</b></div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If you are vested in the Apple scheme of mobile devices, this is an excellent tool that integrates smoothly and in sync with your car hobbies, interests, and upkeep.</div><div class="MsoNormal"><br />
</div><div class="MsoNormal">If you are outside of the Apple scheme of mobile devices, then join me in convincing the author to get this app into the Android market! LOL!<br />
<br />
The author's support website is: <a href="http://www.karlbecker.com/carcare/">http://www.karlbecker.com/carcare/</a><br />
...and I just noticed he has a detailed video walk through of his program here:<br />
<a href="http://www.karlbecker.com/carcare/car_care_screencast1.mov">http://www.karlbecker.com/carcare/car_care_screencast1.mov</a><br />
<br />
</div><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">==============================================================</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-39023700988431695612010-04-11T18:35:00.003-04:002011-07-09T14:43:57.610-04:00Let LEDs light your wings.<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Introduction</span></span></b><br />
<b><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span></b><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This is such a simple mod, that I've generally ignored documenting it. HOWEVER, to demonstrate the point of how simple and quick (and advantageous) this can be, I am doing this write up on it.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>LEDs</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">LEDs are taking over the world. A melodramatic statment? Yes, but the technology has come a long way from the blinking red LED of ancient VCRs (..uhm, for you youngsters, that's how we use to record televised programs </span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">in our day...on large casettes with a small reel of magnetic tape....ok, stop laughing now). Anyway, LEDs are still a little pricey, but every year they come down in price and newer better ones come along. Today they are pretty affordable, especially for this application. </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Door Lights</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Kudos to the DMC designers of the past, that thought it would be practical (and no doubt cool) to add fore, aft, and side lights to the gull wing doors. Back then they had no other practical choice but to use the lighting of the time, the little (wedge based) incandescent bulbs. Those lights while they do draw low power, if the doors are left open long enough, will eventually drain your battery; additionally, they are not very bright during the day time.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>LED your door lights</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Replacing your incandescent door lightbulbs with LEDs, fits perfectly with the theme of this blog. There are three distinct advantages to making this mod:</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1) Replacement LEDs for your door lights, draw considerably less power than incandescent. Other owners have commented of leaving their doors open (thus door lights on) for a week, with no noticable battery drain.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">2) These LEDs are brighter than their incandescent versions. I have seen at car shows our cars with brightly lit door lights - in bright daylight. They were all running LED lights.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">3) Properly made and used, LED lights can last a very long time. It will most likely be years before you'd have to replace one of these new LED lights.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Where do I get them?</b></span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><u>DMCH</u></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">DMCH has a convenient one stop shop for a kit of 2 red and 4 yellow multi-led bulbs, for $14.95 (+ shipping/handling) </span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">LINK: <a href="http://www.delorean.com/store/p-10360-led-light-kit-doors-only.aspx">http://www.delorean.com/store/p-10360-led-light-kit-doors-only.aspx</a></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">They are plug and play, take the old ones out, put these in. I have seen these used the most, and all observations noted above have been the DMCH kits.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><u>Superbrightleds.com</u></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you want to experiment with brighter (needed?) or different colors, you can buy your own at Superbrightleds.com. On this link: <a href="http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?%20%20action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/mini-wedge.html">Link to LED Wedge Bulbs</a> ,the first group of LEDs shown, are the "WLED Minature Wedge Base Bulbs"...these are they ones typically used.</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">On the second group of bulbs shown at that link, titled "WLED Minature Wedge Base bulbs with High Power SMD LEDs"m are some variants that are said to be even brighter than the LED bulbs of the first group.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Installation, with pictures:</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">So let's see what it takes to put them in. As this article started, the installation is really very quick. Again, it's so simple that I've only read it described, but since digital pictures are cheap, here is the installation, documented with pictures:</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">1. Starting point. No need to unplug the battery for this as long as you don't mess with the wiring, and it also greatly assists the installation at a later step.</span></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXC3suFtc0VnDB9DQyZsNV4jb_WtRXttQRcRPKRJMtBIz5cImKSEPB1sVW-Nf71iAIZbEf2ow1linsPCK2sYYyxsa6nQDdBNbD-5rWyHHuLruAlh2qXPeiSgF9GiXLi3LDVq5ojsImdE/s1600/LED+Replace+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMXC3suFtc0VnDB9DQyZsNV4jb_WtRXttQRcRPKRJMtBIz5cImKSEPB1sVW-Nf71iAIZbEf2ow1linsPCK2sYYyxsa6nQDdBNbD-5rWyHHuLruAlh2qXPeiSgF9GiXLi3LDVq5ojsImdE/s320/LED+Replace+01.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. You want to pull the boot that holds the bulb and the lens, out of the door. You can try with your fingers, but I find that a screwdriver as a twisting wedge (being careful not to poke through the boot) is a good start. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiInzehzEaqNFi1RJ2lG2Voz8P7E6BJ8omdPGjmm_P-Cecjogf16LJckactX_5DK3EmK1DlhfOPBvRTWxnNoMZCHDG5kZCzz00gYiPAFx0P757DPEnfoKZEDcXPGGbeYeaqJ8rSAT9Y7mU/s1600/LED+Replace+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiInzehzEaqNFi1RJ2lG2Voz8P7E6BJ8omdPGjmm_P-Cecjogf16LJckactX_5DK3EmK1DlhfOPBvRTWxnNoMZCHDG5kZCzz00gYiPAFx0P757DPEnfoKZEDcXPGGbeYeaqJ8rSAT9Y7mU/s320/LED+Replace+02.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">3. Once you get an edge of the boot out, you can then pull out the rest with you fingers, out until it clears the door. You'll need to pull more than you may think you need to, and for goodness sakes don't pull on the wire behind it.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ntdtDRUi-UXXyna3KLrItPAHe6m6jhUQPe68QbKJOLLH9gYeqGMlDTbaTQE5BQHx-chq6ChQ1GXjrZYgy5S10CTZmCSAlFJCZGmJXit8cNm537KepLs-pDuxZJdjoACY8Mxc-AUoXdQ/s1600/LED+Replace+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-ntdtDRUi-UXXyna3KLrItPAHe6m6jhUQPe68QbKJOLLH9gYeqGMlDTbaTQE5BQHx-chq6ChQ1GXjrZYgy5S10CTZmCSAlFJCZGmJXit8cNm537KepLs-pDuxZJdjoACY8Mxc-AUoXdQ/s320/LED+Replace+03.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">4. You now need to remove the lens from the boot, do this by pushing back on the front lip of the boot. Only one hand shown because the other was holding the camera. You may be able to take just the lens out without pulling to boot out, but I find this way easier and less likely to damage the lens or boot.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzLQdFVe0dZ_ts7X3UlkzQwIpwlso8hVY5XJAIAP2VBKwTv49oD2YC1lAZ7cN3QQURktXQek3g6-balk7iBCKW3pjFc5BiC6B8BfNh-kuha_hNRlp44n_bHMBDFJ-ou6_eXhiAHWf1vaQ/s1600/LED+Replace+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzLQdFVe0dZ_ts7X3UlkzQwIpwlso8hVY5XJAIAP2VBKwTv49oD2YC1lAZ7cN3QQURktXQek3g6-balk7iBCKW3pjFc5BiC6B8BfNh-kuha_hNRlp44n_bHMBDFJ-ou6_eXhiAHWf1vaQ/s320/LED+Replace+04.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">5. Lens comes out. If you'll notice I already had an LED bulb in there. My previous onwer had replaced these, and years back the bulb in there, which only has one LED on it was affordable enough, but not at all bright enough. Pull the bulb straight out.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZn5poF32FBdV4O8jSH5dR8PFx-iOvctpWsfqYSI-YazrIVLUs9K5mUVIqDyEvU_KAewdA_5za1itbRg4hHNj2GiX-um29TzCijPtZZPZ8Az6xk4EHZypO63As6FDgKe0f_VHRdjpGO1I/s1600/LED+Replace+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZn5poF32FBdV4O8jSH5dR8PFx-iOvctpWsfqYSI-YazrIVLUs9K5mUVIqDyEvU_KAewdA_5za1itbRg4hHNj2GiX-um29TzCijPtZZPZ8Az6xk4EHZypO63As6FDgKe0f_VHRdjpGO1I/s320/LED+Replace+05.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">6. Now plug your new bulb in. Note the socket position, and aligh the connector end of the LED bulb with it. </span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ-xivZkLypBh507p8FS4ti6BOWOSroynT9n6tZJSGEduAve0b0uPxuF64hNCgwzItkQgyaLe5GR87fi2kOdLkCpTO-ss_prq8y95Etc4CkpaK1bDCgvTqztpvJaMD78yDeDGMzdfEHJg/s1600/LED+Replace+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ-xivZkLypBh507p8FS4ti6BOWOSroynT9n6tZJSGEduAve0b0uPxuF64hNCgwzItkQgyaLe5GR87fi2kOdLkCpTO-ss_prq8y95Etc4CkpaK1bDCgvTqztpvJaMD78yDeDGMzdfEHJg/s320/LED+Replace+06.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">7. If the LED bulb does not immediately light up, pull out the LED bulb and spin it 180 degree and reinsert. LED bulbs unlike incandescnet bulbs are polarity sensitive, in that they will only work in one orientation. (This is where leaving the battery connected helps out do allow you do this only once.)</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2x3EtWKMxRyS5-l5gW6aQEbcZWMBFflC39a9SxQibopHr_sZB2nDD0pGE9DYYQdjetPGbvS50tybLFbK7CgTYwbbSKcsZuPim8cVyf4Ry2c23SLvp_VTUpXfVhN6lQrR1Q57V0vU9m8o/s1600/LED+Replace+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2x3EtWKMxRyS5-l5gW6aQEbcZWMBFflC39a9SxQibopHr_sZB2nDD0pGE9DYYQdjetPGbvS50tybLFbK7CgTYwbbSKcsZuPim8cVyf4Ry2c23SLvp_VTUpXfVhN6lQrR1Q57V0vU9m8o/s320/LED+Replace+07.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">8. Reverse the process by replacing the lens on the boot, and pushing the boot back into its cutout on the door.</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLgFmUDb0mtIdor4Se12F7rtm7IxSOVOad6H1WJMPg5IUYC1V1iKlPIS4V0tjHqyc_TEyA_5597y29DTDsvDbXiF6lmH2g9XnlyVfhDap-jHrxtwWGnHqs7HnuRpgqK9twsZST2bIsktM/s1600/LED+Replace+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLgFmUDb0mtIdor4Se12F7rtm7IxSOVOad6H1WJMPg5IUYC1V1iKlPIS4V0tjHqyc_TEyA_5597y29DTDsvDbXiF6lmH2g9XnlyVfhDap-jHrxtwWGnHqs7HnuRpgqK9twsZST2bIsktM/s320/LED+Replace+08.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">9. You are done. ...once you do the other five. : )</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLSVm0zXJjHTcCSXiYvBsiOHfLVCUej-RUImlNfaAbjIbkwdmN2rOMpMxNWCgk3vS81g-FGxX9KINz2FNsAIWBhRsO8hs1HNFQ1NJMmI_KuSpbgiGbY4HdVUOOWcG2-Z52yYFYhfTlEs/s1600/LED+Replace+09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaLSVm0zXJjHTcCSXiYvBsiOHfLVCUej-RUImlNfaAbjIbkwdmN2rOMpMxNWCgk3vS81g-FGxX9KINz2FNsAIWBhRsO8hs1HNFQ1NJMmI_KuSpbgiGbY4HdVUOOWcG2-Z52yYFYhfTlEs/s320/LED+Replace+09.jpg" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><b>Conclusion</b></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">You now have very bright, low power, very cool looking door lights on your car. If you're still running incandescent bulbs, seriously consider this simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade to your car.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-8837181739697118712010-04-02T00:05:00.002-04:002010-04-11T18:22:45.804-04:00DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2010 Q1 Update<span style="line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>The 2010 Q1 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 42 months, is summarized in a graph and table format. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the direct link </span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">click here</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thanks. </span></span><br />
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<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------</span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the </span></span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">"Best of"</span></span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> postings. Thanks.</span></span></div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-54270503474943203792010-01-04T20:47:00.002-05:002010-01-04T20:48:51.211-05:00DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2009 Q4 (EOY) Update<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The 2009 Q4 (EOY) Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 38 months, is summarized in a graph and table format. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the direct link </span><a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">click here</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hope you continue to find this information interesting. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Thanks. </span></span><br />
<div><span style="font-family: monospace; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 12px; line-height: 15px; white-space: pre-wrap;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span> </span></span><br />
</div>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-67304512697034612009-12-14T22:49:00.032-05:002013-05-18T22:02:39.537-04:00Gremlin Hunt / Fuel Pump Area Upkeep<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHpYMuI25jjMyaXKk8HxEnknkuDecFNhRYBG-qYpZA-f46jIsAi-EpdpUPzFIS521nmKpyEZqWQLTvVyMuYWZqYcP5N82LDsNlW9ldoFYF7AMs8ySbxqxEVAmcVHOAR53JkLdu9ddSqo/s1600-h/80s+Cars+Morning+Run+02.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415661180464309506" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnHpYMuI25jjMyaXKk8HxEnknkuDecFNhRYBG-qYpZA-f46jIsAi-EpdpUPzFIS521nmKpyEZqWQLTvVyMuYWZqYcP5N82LDsNlW9ldoFYF7AMs8ySbxqxEVAmcVHOAR53JkLdu9ddSqo/s400/80s+Cars+Morning+Run+02.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 204px; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
This posting starts off with the picture above for several reasons.<br />
<ul>
<li>First, and most relevant to this site, is that the picture represents 2109 (on left) out for a reliable and spirited weekend morning ride, after being down for the previous 4 weekends, until a malfunction was corrected.</li>
<li>Secondly, it is pictured next to my friend Mike in his DeLorean, which he recently got back on the road, and it is the first time both our cars were out for a drive together.</li>
<li>Lastly, the picture was taken from my son’s (who was down for Thanksgiving) ’85 Supra, which is a cool car itself, and it represented the 3<sup>rd</sup> car of that weekend’s impromptu 80’s car cruise.</li>
</ul>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">The Gremlin Hunt</span></div>
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Back to the blog posting, 2109 was down for 4 weekends, as I chased down a gremlin which was causing the car to at first buck, then stall, while driving. The stalling was as if someone reached in and turned the key off, as the car would restart just fine after it would stall. It got progressively worse where it would happen after 30 minutes of driving. The issue felt like an electrical problem, so it was time to chase it.</div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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My approach would be to start at the fuel pump, and finish at the engine bay, on all related components. I knew that working only on weekends this would limit me to driving her until it was fixed, but I also knew that this meant that certain older untouched (by me) systems would get addressed.</div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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In the order of attack, I would investigate and repair if required:</div>
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</div>
<ul>
<li>Fuel pump</li>
<li>Fuel pump connector (previously identified as a “connector of interest”)</li>
<li>Grounds for fuel pump.</li>
<li>Fuel pump connections at washer bottle.</li>
<li>Inertia switch & wiring</li>
<li>Fuse box area</li>
<li>Ballast connectors</li>
<li>Ignition Coil</li>
<li>Ballast resistor & wiring</li>
<li>Distributor cap & rotor</li>
</ul>
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<o:p> As expected from a car that at this writing is 28 years old, at each step above, something suspect was found, and then was corrected. In this posting I will only cover a few of the items above, and discuss and show what upkeep was done to those areas, which you may wish to consider for your car as well.</o:p></div>
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<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<b>Fuel Pump Area</b></div>
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Since the symptom was the engine just stopping, the fuel delivery system, specifically its wiring, became suspect of possibly cutting out power to the pump, thus causing the engine to starve for fuel. </div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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I must confess at this time that when I first got 2109, and was looking at references for parts replacements, the subject of anything to do with fuel, and work on fuel related parts was intimidating to me because of the respect that I had for working with gasoline - in my home garage. The project below became my best medicine to cure me of all the intimidation. I suppose the trick, for me, and what I recommend, is to not rush work in this area, and to take proper preventative safety measures.</div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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And those measure are: Be respectful of working in this area, you are dealing in a potentially high combustion area, do take the proper precautions such as taking the battery offline prior to commencing the work, and having no spark or flame producing items near this work area. Also protect your hands from contact with fuel, and work in a well ventilated area.</div>
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<b>Starting Point, Fuel Pump Area</b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhf0pA0wwFLeuZ1R5ibtYpaHwUmanKaU0Za6790X9b-3hyyp6MnQvsDJivseXtc7zkNqsdBW5Js6K7sl8cCmrzSI03SZtK-RLx1CeWS7Yj1bvuSaRD9Lr3EZvnuW9ZWB-9mfhQqUgI-pk/s1600-h/Starting+Point.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415674829686093954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhf0pA0wwFLeuZ1R5ibtYpaHwUmanKaU0Za6790X9b-3hyyp6MnQvsDJivseXtc7zkNqsdBW5Js6K7sl8cCmrzSI03SZtK-RLx1CeWS7Yj1bvuSaRD9Lr3EZvnuW9ZWB-9mfhQqUgI-pk/s320/Starting+Point.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 293px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />The picture above, was when I first opened the access door about 20 months ago. This was uncharted area for me, since then except for the tank nearly everything there has been replaced today. </div>
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Before this Gremlin hunt, I had previously:</div>
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</div>
<ul>
<li>Replaced the original fuel sender for an updated one, then wound up putting the original back on (a story for another day)</li>
<li>Changed the fuel boot cover (discussed below).</li>
<li>Changed those orange fuel lines which were beginning to get brittle where they met the hard lines. This was producing a gasoline smell when the car was in the garage, so I took care of that promptly, and it did solve the fuel odor issue. For the replacement lines, I used new fuel hoses rated for high pressures. </li>
<li>Covered the AC hoses nearby with some pipe insulation to prevent them from rubbing on the access panel.</li>
</ul>
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</div>
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By the way there are some excellent looking fuel hose replacements available from Martin G. at Delorean <a href="http://www.delorean.co.uk/parts.html">delorean.co.uk</a>, for $105 shipped anywhere. They come new fittings pre-crimped, as well as with a stainless dome nut and copper washers, for the fuel pump. Here is a picture of them, more information at his site:<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhyooLqNQmHZ2W706__KvKXm3AfA2-cJxvaF3jD0X5cbdqsE8xMnAvp0kC8FMfcdCs1Jv9cr6TjSlXZQ_9L7L1V_OHHgKGRSFBxpjXagMFO6luRraH-gtBgXEq6j-TmC6ACBst-FFTpk/s1600-h/fuelhoses.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415896978328638498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZhyooLqNQmHZ2W706__KvKXm3AfA2-cJxvaF3jD0X5cbdqsE8xMnAvp0kC8FMfcdCs1Jv9cr6TjSlXZQ_9L7L1V_OHHgKGRSFBxpjXagMFO6luRraH-gtBgXEq6j-TmC6ACBst-FFTpk/s320/fuelhoses.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 233px; width: 310px;" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<b>Fuel Boot Cap</b></div>
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I’d previously had the boot cap off the fuel pump area and when I did, I noticed that it was very soft and it felt like it was thin and could easily puncture it. Months earlier I had ordered from Don Stegar's DeLorean Motor Center in California, their replacement boot which sells for $29.75 and has gotten some positive remarks from other owners. This replacement boot feels noticeably thicker and sturdier that the one that came with my car, and as I understand that it is less susceptible to fuel rot due to the ethanol mixes we are all currently having to purchase.<br /><a href="http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/UpperFuelBoot.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/cgi-bin/image/templates/UpperFuelBoot.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 187px; width: 300px;" /></a><br />106684, Upper Fuel Pump Boot<br /><a href="http://www.deloreanmotorcenter.com/_106684_upper_fuel_pump_boot.html">DeLorean Motor Center, CA.</a></div>
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Another interesting feature of this new boot cap, is the the fact that the hoses that come out of it are a very tight fit. It took a little silicone spray to be able to force and pull the fuel hoses through them ... which is a good thing because they remain very secure and water tight, as installed.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<b>Fuel Pump</b></div>
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Since the symptom was the engine just stopping, the fuel pump became suspect of possibly cutting out. I searched 2109's maintenance records (available since 1981) and found that I was running an 8 year old pump, which as about 15,000 miles – the age and miles weren’t terribly bad, but I figured that a refresh here may not be a bad idea, worst case is that it did not fix the issue, but at least I would have a new pump and good spare.</div>
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The pump came out fine, looking in great condition for its age.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpXrUF6J2XDa5LECgW2QkbuxYRAFhJWFkCOfi0Uznm_PAcpfoPeuvmKVEzOtdW54eSmuoqLPx1CotZtBry-f4LBt5sScHQamoQuCUGwILjbqdOtx9aAwkYZ6ePtePifaz-yL8bwNmIa4/s1600-h/Pump+Out.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415313958291401730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOpXrUF6J2XDa5LECgW2QkbuxYRAFhJWFkCOfi0Uznm_PAcpfoPeuvmKVEzOtdW54eSmuoqLPx1CotZtBry-f4LBt5sScHQamoQuCUGwILjbqdOtx9aAwkYZ6ePtePifaz-yL8bwNmIa4/s320/Pump+Out.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 271px; width: 320px;" /></a><br /><br /></div>
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<b>Fuel Pump Baffle, Screen, and Pickup Hose</b></div>
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After the pump was out, the baffle remained inside the tank and was very easy to remove. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPOW8eyuxatshZS6HHinV-8Pal8I6Sgl63Y8-wDRi1hn8JrpjmkU-A4OQ1JB-t8bGfTM2IOSQGJdvNxWJwi_fVzii3osdr28Lyk9x0AhlAvUB7XjWld2v43bTOM_yIpwLoB-Dq2Rwwh4/s1600-h/Baffle+Before.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415314208724204610" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMPOW8eyuxatshZS6HHinV-8Pal8I6Sgl63Y8-wDRi1hn8JrpjmkU-A4OQ1JB-t8bGfTM2IOSQGJdvNxWJwi_fVzii3osdr28Lyk9x0AhlAvUB7XjWld2v43bTOM_yIpwLoB-Dq2Rwwh4/s320/Baffle+Before.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 214px; width: 320px;" /></a><br /><br />Referencing the service manuals and online parts catalog, my baffle was missing one set of hold down wires, and the bottom circular part.<br /><a href="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/110043.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/110043.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 225px; width: 300px;" /></a><br />That bottom part is important, because in effect instead of the baffle forming a drain cup to collect returning gasoline, without the bottom it was more of an in-place open collar. I suppose under low fuel conditions, this would cause fuel starvation, and especially with low fuel at an incline. On this topic, Dave Swingle from DMC-MW stated on DMCTalk, most of the early VIN cars did not have the bottom of the baffle installed, as he has observed in servicing them. I suppose that it is possible that the part was not available for early production, and the factory decided to proceed builds without them. Contact your nearest DMC franchise for availability, should you also be missing one. </div>
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At this point, also check your pumps filter screen. at the bottom of the baffle, at the end of the hose. If it looks dirty, a replacement ("improved part") can be ordered through DMC (#101643, $18.95). </div>
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<a href="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/101643.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/101643.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 225px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
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SpecialTAuto also has this part (#101643, $18.95) shown below. They also have a custom filter application that bolts immediately under the fuel pump, and eliminates the need for the pickup hose, but I chose to keep the stock functionality with the pickup hose attached to the pump.</div>
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<a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-filter-screen-original.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-filter-screen-original.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 350px; width: 475px;" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-filter-screen-original.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><br />The baffle system was reconstructed with the new bottom, and the existing hoses were re-used as they were in good condition. Evaluate your car's hose, you don't want this hose, which it has been known to, kink inside the tank. Also important note: I made the mistake of thinking I could buy regular fuel hose, but that is not recommended as this hose will be submerged in fuel and most parts store fuel hoses are not. Again, if you need ot replace, this is an available DMC part (#106286, $19.69 - not a NOS part). </div>
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The reconstructed baffle system is shown below. It does not go in as shown, the circular bottom drain part needs to be off to clear the the tank opening, and is then reattached inside the tank - trickier that it sounds, but very doable.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrp2ajuVQ74A35icN5umhZQK2lasgGlVFW0NwkhQTHeX9Z1_toc1EK46ZoqxSfEfkmS5f3Iu2-9ZmOFdHn3ET4wxvZBA5CBpT_DHVDu3uHe__4u7f9ssG_SXN8H37IFYH2NzMs9yADvLw/s1600-h/Baffle+After.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415314465665949282" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrp2ajuVQ74A35icN5umhZQK2lasgGlVFW0NwkhQTHeX9Z1_toc1EK46ZoqxSfEfkmS5f3Iu2-9ZmOFdHn3ET4wxvZBA5CBpT_DHVDu3uHe__4u7f9ssG_SXN8H37IFYH2NzMs9yADvLw/s320/Baffle+After.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<b>Fuel Pump re-Assembly</b></div>
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If you wish to replace your fuel pump, you have a surprising amount of choices for our cars. There are two options from two vendors.</div>
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DMC will sell you a NOS pump (#11085, $139.):<br /><a href="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/110085.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/110085.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 225px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>
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...or a newer "after market" pump (#11085A, $99)<br /><a href="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/110085A.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/110085A.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 225px; width: 300px;" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />SpecialTAuto has new Bosch fuel pumps ($134.95)<br /><a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-pump-957.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-pump-957.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 400px; width: 551px;" /></a><br /><br /><br />...and a new higher flowrate pump (#$89.95):<br /><a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-pump-replacement.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-pump-replacement.jpg" style="cursor: pointer; height: 300px; width: 506px;" /></a><br />I like the fact that this one comes with those protective boots, for the electrical connections.</div>
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An unexpected surprise was how corroded the hard return line was. This is a uniquely bent tube that sticks out of the pump cover, sort of wraps around the pump, and is where the submersible fuel hose that feeds into the baffle cup, attaches to. Being a regular steel tube, mostly suspended under fluid for 28 years, I suppose it makes sense it would not look too fresh. Fortunately DMC (#105020, $24.95) and SpectialTAuto (#$44.95) both sell a stainless replacement, which are excellent “while you’re there” mini-refurbishments (SpecialTAuto's price also include a stainless fuel pump metal collar ring).</div>
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A few other things to check, or consider to upgrade in this assembly are the fuel pump boot, the lower part that goes inside the tank (DMC #101391, $54.50), the pump's wiring conector , as well fuel pump's fittings. In my case, I could not remove the fitting from my original pump (remember you'll need two copper crush washers), so I ordered a new one for the new pump. It's probably a good idea anyway leave the original fitting on, so in case an emergency spare is needed, it will already have it's fittings (and washers) pre-installed.</div>
Below is the re-assembled fuel pump assembly, ready to drop back into the gas tank.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_HbO4pnrJZeKD0SAUhYjEYVw63P2jQn36PJ5bUJowlqQjRYpbuwa7nHoJp1p4t0WAtPQcH3CMOUxEua9q51yeZXRit0QxOSj_4_gldeHfJle9CnrDAFHmwaIBQQNFSvnlie7Db6YxCE/s1600-h/Pump+Assembly.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415314811638594130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgv_HbO4pnrJZeKD0SAUhYjEYVw63P2jQn36PJ5bUJowlqQjRYpbuwa7nHoJp1p4t0WAtPQcH3CMOUxEua9q51yeZXRit0QxOSj_4_gldeHfJle9CnrDAFHmwaIBQQNFSvnlie7Db6YxCE/s320/Pump+Assembly.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 240px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
Putting it back in is a little tricky the first time and definitely requires some trial and error. The trick is to have it drop in the correct orientation, where: <br />
<div>
<ul>
<li>the return line inside the tank will not kink, </li>
<li>where the fuel pump connectors are close to the mating harness connector, </li>
<li>that the return line does not stick up too much, </li>
<li>and that the supply and return lines are oriented just right so that their matching hoses line up correctly.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
You'll figure it out what works best, just takes a little patience.<br />
<br />
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<o:p> </o:p></div>
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<b>Fuel Pump Wiring</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The last item to look at in this area is the harness connector to the fuel pump. This is a two wire plastic plug that on my car had exposed wiring just going into the crimped connector pins. Additionally the wiring just beyond the connector was brittle. I took the opportunity to correct all this by disconnecting both the fuel pump and fuel send connector, and pulling from underneath the car (easy to do, of course with the spare out). I did this so I could solder at a distance from the gas tank. I soldered a new set of wires directly to the pins, then spliced a good 18-20 inch section into the existing harness.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p> </o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>Conclusion...</b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The above work was done on spare weekend time, did it solve my engine stalling issues? No.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
So this meant that a) as stated earlier all changes done represented good upkeep in this area, b) I know now that I have a good working spare pump (with fitting), and c) I would have to move on to other components. I am publishing above my component research, findings, and fixes, so that you have a reference to consider checking the fuel pump area as a future project, and/or as a preventative measure. This is by no means a comprehensive fuel system update to the car, to take it further it would have also replaced the accumulator (previously done), the external fuel filter, and the injectors (also previously done on 2109).</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
There were a lot of different parts mentioned here, mostly available from either DMC or SpecialTAuto. These of course can be bought as seperate parts, but check with both vendors as "kits" with many of the parts mentioned are offered by both vendors.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpopLWirh0nPJGWnj4VFTt-mhhNfSNhHD1rWqfEhMonLf7ASSujcJVOSNaO-mrJ3To9v5ElHWhjUiYCVurhprB_Rcvf3bWKJsC7fs4Y85Kz_bqLZlUilALLCpc768Nb8eKFJFACplPlpk/s1600-h/Complete.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415315190333913218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpopLWirh0nPJGWnj4VFTt-mhhNfSNhHD1rWqfEhMonLf7ASSujcJVOSNaO-mrJ3To9v5ElHWhjUiYCVurhprB_Rcvf3bWKJsC7fs4Y85Kz_bqLZlUilALLCpc768Nb8eKFJFACplPlpk/s320/Complete.JPG" style="cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 310px;" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpopLWirh0nPJGWnj4VFTt-mhhNfSNhHD1rWqfEhMonLf7ASSujcJVOSNaO-mrJ3To9v5ElHWhjUiYCVurhprB_Rcvf3bWKJsC7fs4Y85Kz_bqLZlUilALLCpc768Nb8eKFJFACplPlpk/s1600-h/Complete.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a>Picture of completed fuel pump job.</div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
UPDATE 05/18/13<br />
So, reviewing this posting I should note that (if you didn't know) there is a completely new Fuel Pump solution by DMCH. It is a very modern fuel pump that integrates the fuel sender as well. All information today points to a great new product.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://store.delorean.com/images/Product/medium/10569.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://store.delorean.com/images/Product/medium/10569.jpg" /></a></div>
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Ordering information here: <a href="http://store.delorean.com/p-10569-fuel-pumpsender-module.aspx">http://store.delorean.com/p-10569-fuel-pumpsender-module.aspx</a><br />
<br />
============================================================<br />
If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> postings. Thanks.Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-60501459958626801072009-10-03T13:23:00.009-04:002014-08-31T19:35:26.912-04:00"Best of" PostingsBelow are some of the most popular postings here, categorized for reference.<br />
Hope you find them useful.<br />
<br />
<b><u>Modernizing or Upgrading the DeLorean’s...</u></b><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2011/07/going-100-leds-on-your-car-is-good-idea.html">Converting your DeLorean to (nearly) 100% LED illumination.</a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/03/sneak-preview-dome-light-relay-modern.html">Dome Light Timer (for LEDs & Incandescent)</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/11/leds-are-cool.html">Engine bay light, with LEDs</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/fineartlampsoutlet/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=">Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car.</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/delorean-clock-modern-update.html">Digital Clock - The search and alternative solution to a modern replacement</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2012/06/dmc-12s-digital-clock-its-alive.html">Digital Clock - A new, modern, near OEM alternative</a>
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<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/radio-upgrades.html">Radio - Modern alternatives</a><br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/05/dmcs-new-stage-1-upgrade-review.html">Exhaust and Ignition System</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/05/rpm-relay-modern-update.html">RPM Relay</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/10/modernizing-your-spare-tire-minimizing.html">Spare tire</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/04/modernizing-dmc-12-rear-suspension.html">Rear Suspension</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<b><u>DeLorean Maintenance on:</u></b><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/08/burping-your-new-delorean-baby.html">Burping the Cooling System</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/04/sticky-power-window-switch-fix.html">Sticky power window switch fix</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/maintenance-lubricating-speedometer.html">Speedometer Cable</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/01/cleaning-up-engine-bay-over-time.html">Engine Bay (detailing)</a><br />
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" />
<br />
<b><u>Considering a DeLorean?</u></b><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/low-mileage-or-high-mileage-delorean.html">Low or High Mile DeLorean</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/should-i-purchase-delorean-as-daily.html">A DeLorean as a daily driver?</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/tips-on-purchasing-your-delorean.html">Purchasing Tips</a><br />
<a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html">History of DeLoreans sold on eBay</a>Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-25924929010522714902009-09-30T23:08:00.000-04:002009-10-01T23:10:32.825-04:00DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2009 Q3 UpdateThe 2009 Q3 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.<br /><br /><p>The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 35 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.</p><p>For the direct link <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html">click here</a>.<br /></p><br />I hope you continue to find this information interesting.<br />Thanks.Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-67664294507487659962009-06-30T15:45:00.002-04:002009-06-30T21:58:54.472-04:00DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2009 Q2 UpdateThe 2009 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.<br /><br /><p>The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 32 months, is summarized in a graph and table format. </p><p>For the direct link <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html">click here</a>.<br /></p><br />I hope you continue to find this information interesting.<br />Thanks.Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-84973300594494709702009-04-14T18:26:00.055-04:002010-02-22T23:22:17.618-05:00Modernizing the DMC-12's Rear Suspension: Options, Resources, & Overview<strong>Introduction</strong><br />
I have nearly a complete set of parts and service history for 2109. Being a total geek, I spent a weekend afternoon once putting those in Excel. It was a worthwhile exercise because at a glance I can see what part (and if it) was replaced, and when. I am a strong believer in preventive maintenance (PM), so having quick access to that information assists me towards implementing PM on 2109.<br />
<br />
<div align="left">Being a high mileage car (80K, relatively high for a DeLorean) means that it has been enjoyed by by its owners in the sense that it has been driven and not stored. It also means that a lot of components have been changed, updated, or maintained. One of the most obvious components and service work that has not been performed, was on the suspension, she was still riding on 28 year old shocks and related components. I can’t complain, the ride is not bad, a little jolty on the occasional bump, but those old struts (non leaking by the way) must have seen better times. So, suspension work eventually made it to the top of the list of things to do, and I would start with the easiest, the rear.<br />
<br />
I decided to attempt to do the rear suspension myself based on the fact that a) after research and speaking with others, that it didn’t seem too complicated, and b) I could save a few bucks from my budget and invest them in parts, rather than on labor. My backup plan as usual, if I get too over my head, I could always flatbed the car to DMC Florida. <br />
<br />
<strong>Rear Suspension Work</strong><br />
Being on a budget also dictated that I had to buy the parts that I needed over a period of time, and not at once. So in approximately a 6-10 month period, I had all the parts that I needed to begin. Here are some notes, on some of the major components that I chose to use, and why:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IYRu1LKJhVfAw68c6NG1knfEaFISi1qEyHW5L_84XMuA6geUs25fLpL4sTDLigU4Ea8S52kaV8mdnpyUhu0fGWdlTUeyJLDyik3yLRHzN9sgIXzA1f6Sa3BLS8-34vGuzqO3IJeFT9k/s1600-h/Suspension+Baseline.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331772902094158994" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_IYRu1LKJhVfAw68c6NG1knfEaFISi1qEyHW5L_84XMuA6geUs25fLpL4sTDLigU4Ea8S52kaV8mdnpyUhu0fGWdlTUeyJLDyik3yLRHzN9sgIXzA1f6Sa3BLS8-34vGuzqO3IJeFT9k/s320/Suspension+Baseline.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 158px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<br />
</div><u>Springs:</u><br />
<br />
With respect to the springs’ contributions to overall height, I actually do not mind my car’s stock rear height (picture above). The fronts, aesthetically yes, that needs to be lowered, but not the rear. This then simplified my choices as I would be reusing the existing springs.<br />
<br />
Here is how the springs came out of the car:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXU0Hu6X2Gflyw-LiKdRZIwcdaMcz47zczyZ4VdKR1cMAIiwCtrNMqvwSgJC5l_5earHlbDDHKhklODmMI5txAaqFJtVMyTLX2lIDP3uXXEDZeA0OYy63UChHWHTFMgQHTbughjkYQ7uw/s1600-h/Springs+Before.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331799833476554210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXU0Hu6X2Gflyw-LiKdRZIwcdaMcz47zczyZ4VdKR1cMAIiwCtrNMqvwSgJC5l_5earHlbDDHKhklODmMI5txAaqFJtVMyTLX2lIDP3uXXEDZeA0OYy63UChHWHTFMgQHTbughjkYQ7uw/s320/Springs+Before.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 274px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Here is how they looked after some metal prep and several coats of satin black paint.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbL7e-911W_mFF0NakOi6yQGLVeMlczhXfmA-zEh2_WiQHjbuSCPuS7IFeB2nvektDSccS10WXiC4dAZQKJGQarJjDNHWXThEr_B4Xz2yddQfJAH02pCkk5tSnem-u0VI11lcUxE-dEg/s1600-h/Springs+After.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331799958823770018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSbL7e-911W_mFF0NakOi6yQGLVeMlczhXfmA-zEh2_WiQHjbuSCPuS7IFeB2nvektDSccS10WXiC4dAZQKJGQarJjDNHWXThEr_B4Xz2yddQfJAH02pCkk5tSnem-u0VI11lcUxE-dEg/s320/Springs+After.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 114px;" /></a><br />
It took some work, but it turned out well enough that when another owner saw them, they thought that I had bought new ones.<br />
<br />
<u>Notes on springs thatlower the rear end:</u><br />
Spring options for those that wish to lower their car’s rear height are: 1) use your front springs, in the rear, 2) use DMC’s Eibach’s lowered springs, or 3) cut your rear springs.<br />
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<br />
These are DMC's <a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/p-10278-eibach-performance-springs-set.aspx">Eibach Performance Spring Kit</a>:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/GT100100.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/GT100100.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 225px; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
If you do decide to lower the rear height, be aware that you must also replace your lower link, with an adjustable version, and have the wheels realigned for proper camber. If you lower your car’s rear stock height and you do not use an adjustable lower link, the camber of your rear tires will be off, and cannot be adjusted, which will result in the inside treads of your rear tires will quickly begin to show excessive wear.<br />
This is what the adjustable rear links look like:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://midstatedmc.com/parts/adjarms1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://midstatedmc.com/parts/adjarms1.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 242px; width: 350px;" /></a><br />
(Picture from midstatedmc.com)<br />
<br />
These adjustable links are available directly from:<br />
<a href="http://www.dmcmidwest.com/">DMC Midwest</a><br />
<a href="http://midstatedmc.com/parts/adjarm.html%3EDeLorean%20Mid-State%20Club%3C/a%3E%20%3Cbr%3E%3Ca%20href=">DeLorean Mid-State Club</a><br />
<a href="http://www.dmccal.com/_101227_rear_adjustable_lower_crontrol_arms_1set_.html">DMC California</a><br />
Pricing information varies per site, some require cores, some require your links to be sent in to be modified, Dave at DMC Midwest stocks them ready to ship. Reference individual links above, and contact them, for additional details.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Shocks.</u><br />
Here we have quite a few choices. I'll list them in no particular order:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://deloreannewparts.com/store/page8.html">DeLoreanUpgradeParts:</a><br />
<a href="http://deloreannewparts.com/store/media/prodShockAbsorbers.gif" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://deloreannewparts.com/store/media/prodShockAbsorbers.gif" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 306px; width: 323px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://specialtauto.com/">SpecialTAuto</a> has two different kinds of shocks.<br />
"Easy Riders" (Front & Rears as a set)<br />
<a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/shocks-stock.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/shocks-stock.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 450px; width: 463px;" /></a><br />
<br />
...and the "KYB Performance" shocks (front & rears sold seperately, rears shown below)<br />
<a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/KYB-shocks-rearm-perf.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/KYB-shocks-rearm-perf.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 650px; width: 354px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.deloran.com/">DMC</a> sells a full set as part of their Eibach System (and actually NOS Girling ones too). They are sold as fronts and rears together. Shown below is their full Eibach Performance System, but shocks and springs are sold seperately as well. This is a popular configuration and nearly all installation reviews are favorable.<br />
<a href="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/GT100110.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/GT100110.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 225px; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Marty Meier at <a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=2859136101794381276&postID=8497330059449470970" html="">Delorean Mid-State Club</a>, has a front and rear set (with a lot of positive reviews posted).<br />
<a href="http://midstatedmc.com/parts/Shocks1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://midstatedmc.com/parts/Shocks1.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 311px; width: 450px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Ed at DMC Europe has a unique set as well, part of his "Power Series", the <a href="http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=20_143&products_id=99037">"Power Shocks"</a>, which feature adjustable damping settings and polyurethane bushings built in. Both front and rear shown below, but they can be purchased separately.<br />
<a href="http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/images/GT100114PPS.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/images/GT100114PPS.jpgg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 480px; width: 640px;" /></a><br />
<br />
I have heard of a UK source for some shocks similar to Ed's, from the UK, and the shocks are brand: "Spax". If someone can email me public link, I would be glad to post pictures of them here, along with a reference link.<br />
<br />
EDIT (05/11/09): I found the link, am fairly certain it is their "KSX" shock (picture from link below), but you'll have to call them for more details.<br />
<br />
EDIT (05/17/09):<br />
Chris Williams, the Secretary DeLorean Owners Club UK, has provided the further information and some detailed pictures of the SPAX shocks. He wrote:<br />
<br />
"<em>The well known company for performance shocks (SPAX) have agreed to start manufacturing shock absorbers (dampers) for our cars. They are gas adjustable front and rear, with the rears being adjustable for the spring height on a S/Steel threaded outer tube. Fully Gas adjustable, with 28 settings on the adjusting knob. Spring height is also adjustable as you can see from the pictures.</em><br />
<em>Prices will be about, £74.99 each for the fronts and £99.99 each for the rear. There is 25% discount on these prices for DOC club members.</em>"<br />
Rear SPAX in comparison to OEM. Take note of Stainless collar threads, AND a protective sleeve over the piston rod, two unique features of this shock absorber:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9W6J-1ydldZeC3K7x6QQi4Y2c_bV-U0tmmpBZ9Yn-cd7YMOCcMt0f2W6nERWg50MYHCBkD779qNrKTuUACddq_PPOsdvdYO8OohYRgkXy0dohBT3cxDkDCdYXk3hKtB4tyaWgiBt7JSs/s1600-h/REARSsm.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336837320592748978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9W6J-1ydldZeC3K7x6QQi4Y2c_bV-U0tmmpBZ9Yn-cd7YMOCcMt0f2W6nERWg50MYHCBkD779qNrKTuUACddq_PPOsdvdYO8OohYRgkXy0dohBT3cxDkDCdYXk3hKtB4tyaWgiBt7JSs/s320/REARSsm.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 98px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
Close up of the bottom of the rear shocks, with the knob for the adjustable dampening settings:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSNI12tGEDO52xFww3jJug6j5WMg5PcQNO-Qxl5FA9TnjoA-7dcy-NprP_9CreymzZMRw6EI51Sf-AagRpmIx_vjcK_RYxkO0AQF6JSCEwkCT1OBpxYoBbHL30XjglGfxyUVT9hm-EDQ/s1600-h/REARSBOTsm.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5336837515474889858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRSNI12tGEDO52xFww3jJug6j5WMg5PcQNO-Qxl5FA9TnjoA-7dcy-NprP_9CreymzZMRw6EI51Sf-AagRpmIx_vjcK_RYxkO0AQF6JSCEwkCT1OBpxYoBbHL30XjglGfxyUVT9hm-EDQ/s320/REARSBOTsm.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 235px;" /></a><br />
<br />
I have to say that on features alone, this does appear to be a very interesting alternative, for replacing the rear shocks. <br />
Edit: (05/26/09)<br />
For more information on these, Chris says to contact Spax directly at: <a href="http://www.spax-suspension.co.uk/contact_us.php">http://www.spax-suspension.co.uk/contact_us.php</a><br />
If you tell them you are a DOC (DeLorean Owners Club) member, you get a 25% discount. . . . Chris says that Spax does not call him to verify membership. ; )<br />
<br />
Edit: (02/22/10)<br />
These shocks are now available domestically, exclusively through<br />
<a href="http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/suspension.html">SpecialTAuto</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Overview of which to get...</u><br />
<u></u>Which one to go with is honestly a leap of faith, and balanced by what are your driving expectations, and of course funding availability. Some are touted as “performance shocks” which give a stiffer ride, but hold tighter on aggressive turns and driving. Others are “touring shocks” which would mean a softer, cushier ride, which is not for everyone.<br />
<br />
I drove a fellow D owner’s car with SpecialTAuto’s “Easy Riders” and I liked them, it was a soft ride on a less than great parking lot, and on a smooth open road at 50mph. I have heard others complain they are too soft, and in response John has released a stiffer 2nd option as shown above.<br />
<br />
If you search you’ll find all sorts of opinions on installed solutions, but what is missing and we’ll probably never see, is a side by side comparison of multiple solutions, on the same vehicle. So really the best that could happen then to assist you on your choice, is to be able to have the opportunity to ride in as many cars as possible with the different shock and spring options, for you to evaluate personally, to make the best choice for your liking and needs.<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>For 2109...</u><br />
<br />
I went with Ed’s Powershocks. They were not the cheapest, and the US to Euro exchange as well as shipping adds to the expense, but I decided on these because there had been some positive reviews on them, and the unique features that they have. They have a dial knob near the bottom, where you can dial the shocks to be set for either a soft or hard or anything in between. Chances are once you find your right setting you’ll never need to adjust it again, but who knows? <br />
There are also two other feature which I liked about these shocks. One is that they have threaded collars, which seemed (and turned out to be) a very desirable feature to have to install and adjust them (height). The second is that the shocks themselves come with polyurethane bushings all around, as standard, which tends to balance the value of this option.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTdFeVp2-pDsS6rPSWel05cRTNH1bbiBBUeoQdJwXCFEP-0mSUqRoIbxmA1HpcEWd3Rs2GXfC_2WpPVU1CaIUcRKv-Gr7OB1wNlKPbETfrdn4vIDswIXS32b9F2QhoCROJTYyxup1Es0/s1600-h/Complete+Rear+View.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331812437561112450" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvTdFeVp2-pDsS6rPSWel05cRTNH1bbiBBUeoQdJwXCFEP-0mSUqRoIbxmA1HpcEWd3Rs2GXfC_2WpPVU1CaIUcRKv-Gr7OB1wNlKPbETfrdn4vIDswIXS32b9F2QhoCROJTYyxup1Es0/s320/Complete+Rear+View.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 276px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>General Notes</strong><br />
That’s about all you need for to replace your rear suspension system. I won’t cover the installation details, as there are several sources that do so well enough, like a fellow owner’s <a href="http://dmctalk.com/showthread.php?t=4544">“How To”</a> on DMCtalk.com. I based my installation on that write up, and for the most part the suspension installation went well. The job can get more challenging if you encounter"frozen" bolts and nuts. Fortunately I only had to deal with one stubborn frozen nut at the top of one of the shocks, but a nut cutter easily removed that obstacle. The other thing to check is the bushings on the links, if they are dry, rotted, or compressed, you may wish to consider replacing them, or even upgrading them with polyurethane versions (currently available at DMC-Europe, and in development at SpecialTAuto domestically). Finally, the threaded collar on the shocks, mentioned above, did in fact make the installation easier, especially with this tool (found on Ebay). <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXSXuXrWwv60kqnl5dxkYsXYqcb4FUWx0Qq6RiMzeU6bXSTmzmaWk2hHdwOQ3T06REdIuCt2yMTdYrUxqZ4IgLZcVx25OTsosFvzfKNOAy9CzEyqRXCfUuv4U6o1MyY5oCFD5dkEy4n-o/s1600-h/Coilover+Wrench+in+use.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331810589955690002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXSXuXrWwv60kqnl5dxkYsXYqcb4FUWx0Qq6RiMzeU6bXSTmzmaWk2hHdwOQ3T06REdIuCt2yMTdYrUxqZ4IgLZcVx25OTsosFvzfKNOAy9CzEyqRXCfUuv4U6o1MyY5oCFD5dkEy4n-o/s320/Coilover+Wrench+in+use.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 155px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
Suspending the car on stands, and rotating the collar with this tool is a quick easy way to adjust the height of each shock..<br />
<br />
<strong>In conclusion...</strong><br />
I have logged over 500 miles with my new rear suspension. Truth be told I believe the resulting effects are minor. I believe this to be the case because the full effect will not be reaped until both the front and rear suspension is upgraded. Still the rear suspension is now refurbished from the original factory components. The only issue that I have had has been a "squeek" sound from the shocks, but Ed advised me, and it has happened, that this goes away over time.<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong>Epilogue</strong><br />
I could have left it at that, but instead I followed the “once you are there” philosophy, so I actually did some other rear suspension related work, mostly captured this (near) complete picture of the driver's side (LH) suspension:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5i-30HpDXmGz7LWI5eyQwT5H6maga4NPw61De6BRvW_YqvU8eOkYc6HlOsRk5pSjLtCrMohqMwuRQJeh2sinnTTS3hrP826Clxeo9O0uWYtgU6didlQdKi0Ome2vQ1Pr5laNCuHVrjLk/s1600-h/Complete+Full+Rear+View.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331814237478318258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5i-30HpDXmGz7LWI5eyQwT5H6maga4NPw61De6BRvW_YqvU8eOkYc6HlOsRk5pSjLtCrMohqMwuRQJeh2sinnTTS3hrP826Clxeo9O0uWYtgU6didlQdKi0Ome2vQ1Pr5laNCuHVrjLk/s320/Complete+Full+Rear+View.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 267px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
What you can see, and what you cannot, that was done as part of the rear suspension work was:<br />
* Removed all the links to evaluate the bushings and to paint them.<br />
* Cleaned and painted the old springs.<br />
* Cleaned the parking brakes, and changed pads.<br />
* Replaced the worn parking brake cables.<br />
* Changed the rear flex brake lines with stainless versions.<br />
* Cleaned the exposed frame parts.<br />
* Cleaned off some road grime from the transmission.<br />
* Cleaned off the wheels<br />
* Removed, cleaned off, inner drive shafts<br />
* Replaced, outer drive shaft, bearings, and hubs.<br />
* Re-torqued all bushing related parts, and the trailing tab pivot bolts.<br />
* Cleaned off the interior of the wheels wells (not shown in picture).<br />
<br />
Here is before and after shot of some of the visible parts and clean up work:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnLsX9dGCs32egs-tMszociwvG0_8wOMycg2M0zrPd4xIn4USpOatmhp7n6qkp4bt20D9Ao_llPq8wIBkWOnINcchSO4XTtMZPQZaAm0nC9taL9mKx0kpGQBhf2HK_FXzzqh-nVxzbskk/s1600-h/DRV+side+Before+and+After.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331826179014021346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnLsX9dGCs32egs-tMszociwvG0_8wOMycg2M0zrPd4xIn4USpOatmhp7n6qkp4bt20D9Ao_llPq8wIBkWOnINcchSO4XTtMZPQZaAm0nC9taL9mKx0kpGQBhf2HK_FXzzqh-nVxzbskk/s320/DRV+side+Before+and+After.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 160px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
While most of those are details for another day, I would like to highlight a specific one mentioned above: "Replaced, outer drive shaft, bearings, and hubs."<br />
<br />
<br />
<u>Hub, bearing, and outer drive shaft</u><br />
A secondary goal of this job was to repalce the rear bearings. I had the infamous "clunk" from the rear suspension when I got the car. It mysteriously went away one day and was replaced with a cyclic and surprisingly loud "squeek, squeek, squeek" on a turn. I figured it was the rear wheel bearings, that their time was up.<br />
<br />
The wheel bearing is sandwhiched (machine pressed) between the outer hub and the carrier. To get it out requires a trip to the machines shop, to press it out, and to press it back in. Since I had to remove this assembly anyway, I figured I would clean it up and repaint it, but then it would mean two seperate trips to the machine shop, to take care of this. Also, the assembly is ulitimatly held together with a large 32mm nut, which needs to be tourqed to just over 260 ft-lbs.<br />
<br />
I knew that I could tackle this, part by part, with some trips to a machine shop, and some brute strength, but I got an ideas to contact Josh B., at <a href="http://www.mcflymotorsports.com/">McFly MotorSports</a> in Ohio. Although Josh's shop is relatively new to the DeLorean repair and restoration businesses, he is quickly gaining a great reputation for the service and quality work that he has put out, and some exciting engine performance upgrades that he has in the works (more info at this site).<br />
<br />
Case in point, after contacting him, he sent me this picture of a recently restored hub/carrier assembly that he had worked on:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7G6TGWJSGJUZd1yJhybGYAjhWs2sk7fciz6MvkZ1E53xFRAz1vrq4fKDjdM8ev_P5VdLuBT3V6KqFufZGRaSK5ee485vwDB0B3ESPx1McFih1eSiRPzp0nTtIwMJGEFN_RNI1mQdD4a0/s1600-h/Josh+Work+Sample.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331825253074686514" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7G6TGWJSGJUZd1yJhybGYAjhWs2sk7fciz6MvkZ1E53xFRAz1vrq4fKDjdM8ev_P5VdLuBT3V6KqFufZGRaSK5ee485vwDB0B3ESPx1McFih1eSiRPzp0nTtIwMJGEFN_RNI1mQdD4a0/s320/Josh+Work+Sample.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 318px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
In this picture not only can you see the quality of the work on the hub/carrier and related suspension components, but you can also see the quality of the restoration work of the frame that it is mounted on.<br />
<br />
So, I engaged him to re-do my hubs, bearings, and outer shaft. Doing so all I did was to remove all three (carrier hub, bearing, outer drive shaft) as an assembly. This is what I sent:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcbzkYCyQGFVdsG3DnEuIamTxLkSI02mxoR0ft3wwxVGbHdx-t_1QMQ66TpmcdP1bY-l4qZ4SmiC2KHOuk4YQ_Idn5MVkgb0Jf6-YuH9OAMNAWfzcUE21_OFJYz3oahfZUvdTo6He3V8/s1600-h/Hub+Before.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331827930792497602" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZcbzkYCyQGFVdsG3DnEuIamTxLkSI02mxoR0ft3wwxVGbHdx-t_1QMQ66TpmcdP1bY-l4qZ4SmiC2KHOuk4YQ_Idn5MVkgb0Jf6-YuH9OAMNAWfzcUE21_OFJYz3oahfZUvdTo6He3V8/s320/Hub+Before.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 286px;" /></a><br />
<br />
...and this is what he sent back:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCs-JWYvGcj3nE-epV5QvFtVYNpPOh0LtJYWahJv9X2aNTqsFaOuuVCN3Z88IsS1ud63iSM9GAMsMfd0OTVPk60fDQQuqf-9eLxgK1hV3AJS0BSiY4bkZ-B13awNgT9UCIV7MjUC1cOXc/s1600-h/Hub+After.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331827990297356082" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCs-JWYvGcj3nE-epV5QvFtVYNpPOh0LtJYWahJv9X2aNTqsFaOuuVCN3Z88IsS1ud63iSM9GAMsMfd0OTVPk60fDQQuqf-9eLxgK1hV3AJS0BSiY4bkZ-B13awNgT9UCIV7MjUC1cOXc/s320/Hub+After.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 306px;" /></a><br />
<br />
Given enough time, and having access to a media blaster, as well as two visits to a machine shop, some paint prep and paint time, I may have been able to achieve this quality of work by myself. However for what he charged, and how quickly he did it, it just made a lot of sense to have him perform this component restoration.<br />
<br />
Contact him for more information:<br />
Josh B.<br />
<a href="http://www.mcflymotorsports.com/">McFly MotorSports</a><br />
330.573.4129<br />
<br />
<br />
>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> postings. Thanks.<<Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-24687076085550908972009-04-11T12:00:00.006-04:002009-06-30T15:47:38.035-04:00DeLoreans Sold on eBay - 2009 Q1 UpdateThe 2009 Q1 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.<br /><br /><p>The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 29 months, is summarized in a graph and table format. </p><p>For the direct link <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html">click here</a>.<br /></p><br />I hope you continue to find this information interesting.<br />Thanks.Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-91370193780430976182009-03-30T20:09:00.027-04:002016-02-22T00:21:31.404-05:00Sneak Preview: Dome Light Module - A Modern Replacement and Upgrade<span style="font-size: 85%;"><em>(Edit 04/13/09: Added installation picture of 2nd prototype, and link to a draft version of the installation & programming manual, at bottom of this posting.)</em></span><br />
<em style="font-size: 13.6px;">(Edit 02/21/16: Updated links for Dave's website of related product</em><em style="font-size: 13.6px;">s.)</em><br />
<em style="font-size: 13.6px;"><br /></em>
Following this blog's theme of modern upgrades for the DeLorean DMC-12, I am pleased to announce that I and another DeLorean owner have been Beta testing a really neat device for our cars, a multi-mode replacement for the original Dome Light Module. <br />
<strong>Solid State, Mode Programmable, Dome Light Relay.</strong><br />
The device is engineered by Dave McKeen (aka Bitsyncmaster on the forums), who previously re-engineered and currently sells a modernized solid state replacement for our RPM relays (reviewed here: <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/05/rpm-relay-modern-update.html" target="_blank">"RPM Relay, A Modern Update"</a>. I have been using a breadboard version this new module, throughout our Florida Winter months, and have been offering Dave feedback and suggestions on functionality. For the most part it works great, and it is really neat (and cool) to have the light dimming functionality back into our interiors, when you utilize energy (battery) saving LEDs in the interior.<br />
The original module was basically a timer circuit, to dim the interior console lights, but as it was designed over 25 years ago, it does not work with modern LEDs. The fix to this date has been to just remove the module (the white one in the fuse relay area), and the LEDs ran fine but in an on, or off, state.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKEsltb7Lmk72toGwcKgtxWF_9dDulu28ElKARl3uwZxVXsOMDNjagalGVVQ5S4hWBsW1BOAB2xx3Bd9Gvu13dgGZ4gHyqtpZnjn6iUxolNiS0VMjAfOkP6xk-5xs-DhRtFhp2hzQWLqw/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21a+Fuse+Relay+Area.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319176569163057730" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKEsltb7Lmk72toGwcKgtxWF_9dDulu28ElKARl3uwZxVXsOMDNjagalGVVQ5S4hWBsW1BOAB2xx3Bd9Gvu13dgGZ4gHyqtpZnjn6iUxolNiS0VMjAfOkP6xk-5xs-DhRtFhp2hzQWLqw/s320/Blog_Pic_21a+Fuse+Relay+Area.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 312px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-style: italic;">(BTW: Picture above is the result of my fuse/relay area clean up project, from a few months back.)</span><br />
<br />
In Dave’s re-engineered unit, the timed dimming functionality is back, along with a few other nifty modes.<br />
<strong>Mode 1: OEM operation.</strong><br />
In this mode, the module behaves as a direct replacement module, where after 15 seconds of the doors being closed, the lights dim until they are off. With this module however, this feature works if you run either incandescent, or LEDs. (For a good reason to run LEDs, see here: <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/11/leds-are-cool.html" target="_blank">"LEDs are Cool"</a> ) Dimming and LEDs, are a near oxymoron, unlike an incandescent bulb that can be made to increase and decrease its light output with voltage changes, LEDs are either on or off at one voltage. <br />
So How does Dave make them dim?<br />
<u>Techie answer:</u> he seamlessly pulsates them until they dim off.<br />
<u>To the casual observer answer</u>: Freakin’ magic.<br />
<strong>Mode 2: OEM operation plus a 10-minute shutoff.</strong><br />
This mode is as above, but also automatically shuts off all interior (including door, bonnet, and engine bay) lights after 10 minutes. Although this is less of an issue with LEDs, it is a great feature if you are still running incandescent bulbs, in order to avoid excessive battery drain. With this module in this mode, I’ve driven to car shows, or have left the car open in the garage, and sure enough it becomes one less thing to think about when your interior lights are shut off automatically.<br />
<strong>Mode 3: Parade Mode</strong><br />
This is a new and entertaining feature, this is basically Mode 1 but instead of the lights staying on, they blink on and off. If you shut off the interior lights, then the effect is solely focused on the doors. This would be neat to run, say in a night time car show, especially with multiple cars, or as the cars drive by a parade, with the blinking door lights – talk about giving our doors even more of an airplane like wing look.<br />
<strong>Mode changes</strong><br />
In order to change modes, you don’t have to go unburying the fuse/relay area. Instead you can program the module with the light switch from the glove box. As you program it, by pressing the light switch in a certain sequence, the unit provides feedback as to the new program through, interior light pulses.<br />
<br />
<strong>Beta Version 2 (Pre-Production unit).</strong><br />
Right before I began to perform a DIY rear suspension upgrade on 2109, Dave shipped out the latest revision to the module (see picture below). Gone is the breadboard test unit, the latest version is dimensionally now closer to the production unit, where it would look like a plug in replacement, with some minimal wiring to ensure full and future support of features. The workmanship is impressive on the scale that it has been done, with tiny surface mount components mixed along with some small chips, soldered on two stacked circuit boards - but you won't be able to see this on the production boards as it will be a solid, potted, unit. As Beta testers, we are now switching our review and feedback to this new unit, so it may be a few more weeks until the module is ready for sales and general distribution.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL5L_6uCYvlFEdzUVscyXfRYFaRL7GZu_RwAA6qebddJB_YUm3J9EeN7WE4hFli5i_v4b8LB8J79SIH_vpT2gTPouwjjzgMm3yNsLkULfJs00EWIcy5SAsbbI4abQISGiEOGtkiB8Xa8M/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21b+Module.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5319179300770842002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL5L_6uCYvlFEdzUVscyXfRYFaRL7GZu_RwAA6qebddJB_YUm3J9EeN7WE4hFli5i_v4b8LB8J79SIH_vpT2gTPouwjjzgMm3yNsLkULfJs00EWIcy5SAsbbI4abQISGiEOGtkiB8Xa8M/s320/Blog_Pic_21b+Module.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 320px; width: 319px;" /></a><br />
<strong>...in conclusion</strong><br />
Like Dave’s previous product, the solid state RPM Relay, this new module is a modern upgrade for aging, unreliable, and outdated electronic components in our cars. Dave has demonstrated to our small community that his products are reliable re-engineered components, and that he stands behind his product. This one is as clever and useful as his last, but this one is also just downright cool to see in action, as your interior LEDs dim. <br />
<em>I will post a small video later, stop by again to check them out. Thanks</em><br />
<br />
<u>To contact Dave about his upcoming Dome Light Module:</u><a href="http://dm-eng.weebly.com/"> </a><br />
<a href="http://dm-eng.weebly.com/" target="_blank">http://dm-eng.weebly.com/</a><br />
or<br />
PM “Bitsyncmaster” on <a href="http://www.dmctalk.org/" target="_blank">DMCTalk.org</a><br />
<strong></strong><br />
<br />
-----------------------------------------------------------------<br />
<strong>Addendum 04/13/09:</strong><br />
The 2nd prototype has been installed and is working great. With some additional wiring at the time of installation, it brings some new neat functionality. Below is a picture of the unit installed:<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCWr6whPWClU-NjNTycbfD7WRqfvca5HUpxBUVdFfTvVwnN5kqfw8sZUVipdix9LwxDcp3EMl3weugSWkOPkHCqI3Q4Pjku1uW2LdYHaGdTaDrS2ZC8sAfMl392_U3Eij4aqYfLfBxoM/s1600-h/Final+Installation+of+2nd+Prototype.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5324712926332370930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtCWr6whPWClU-NjNTycbfD7WRqfvca5HUpxBUVdFfTvVwnN5kqfw8sZUVipdix9LwxDcp3EMl3weugSWkOPkHCqI3Q4Pjku1uW2LdYHaGdTaDrS2ZC8sAfMl392_U3Eij4aqYfLfBxoM/s320/Final+Installation+of+2nd+Prototype.jpg" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; height: 122px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><em>(Click on picture for a larger view.)</em></span><br />
<br />
As previously discussed, the shipping version will be potted units, so it will look even better installed than the picture above.<br />
<br />
Also, we've completed a first draft of the features, installation, and programming document. You can find it at DMCTalk.<br />
<br />
<br />
>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> postings. Thanks.<<<Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-76692594925111602222009-01-31T23:06:00.035-05:002012-07-10T15:21:16.138-04:00Detailing the Engine Bay, Over Time<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<i style="background-color: white;">Addendum July 2012: Appended pictures of updated engine bay. New AC compressor, new overflow coolant hose, general component cleanup.</i><br />
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<i>Addendum August 2010: Appended pictures of new engine bay harness, routing details.</i><br />
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Part of the maintenance and upkeep that I perform on this car, has to do with the engine and engine bay look. In this month’s entry, I will outline what I (and others) have done to detail and keep this part of our cars, looking as good as possible, providing some added benefits as well.<br />
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Our car came from the previous owner with a well maintained and nicely looking engine and engine bay. However, I noted some room for improvement that I figured I would address over time, and have in fact proceeded to do so over the last two years. My goal was to not deter too much from the stock look, just to refresh it.<br />
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<b>My baseline and current progress</b><br />
This is how the engine bay looked like two years ago, not a bad baseline:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgadkVfqKVGE4npBcnQaMXlImP8OkTm0sKyYXmIcYRbR7z_ISQS_D7R8Ofr9rjOcaKjzR6QyWHaKDxQcIBRTJRVpZexHEgVTZE9yVamLWJQfN7QDIt_-uiVv0Vt5ohvlQoQEK8ycvKsJPQ/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21i.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676412316768130" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgadkVfqKVGE4npBcnQaMXlImP8OkTm0sKyYXmIcYRbR7z_ISQS_D7R8Ofr9rjOcaKjzR6QyWHaKDxQcIBRTJRVpZexHEgVTZE9yVamLWJQfN7QDIt_-uiVv0Vt5ohvlQoQEK8ycvKsJPQ/s320/Blog_Pic_21i.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 211px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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This is how it looks like today:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9YyTTp1i99lXJ0AICCKO9OYlq5CJhi-V9SZtxQarGKraWCizgGq_hReZNLjm5pXhjsIfDXWeJ9i-JDIFK8KQRvOP1wh27iljDU24wZ9EpNt_njtgKdcvuY60FS3tP850pduZ9yS_ayA/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21j.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676546028715410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT9YyTTp1i99lXJ0AICCKO9OYlq5CJhi-V9SZtxQarGKraWCizgGq_hReZNLjm5pXhjsIfDXWeJ9i-JDIFK8KQRvOP1wh27iljDU24wZ9EpNt_njtgKdcvuY60FS3tP850pduZ9yS_ayA/s320/Blog_Pic_21j.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 218px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
In some cases the changes are subtle, out of view, and not as apparent as when seen in person, as opposed to in pictures.<br />
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The following are discussions of specific areas and/or parts that have been detailed in the engine bay area on this car.<br />
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<b>Air inlet pipe</b><br />
One thing not stock on either of the pictures above is the absence of the air inlet hose which runs between the coolant bottle and the air filter housing. On 2109 this was replaced a while ago, and if not I would have done it myself for cosmetic and performance reasons. Both DMC and SpecialTAuto.com sell this, each respectively name it "performance intake" or "performance cold air input" hose. These kits replace the stock soft plumbing, along with the a manifold valve and feed. The removed parts existed to warm the intake air, upon start up, specifically for colder climate conditions. Since this is a car used year round in the Southeast, and most DeLoreans don’t run in the Winter, this is an area for improvement. There may also be advantages to removing the stock assembly, because the original valve assembly tended to restrict a portion of the air flow into the engine.<br />
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Cost: Approximately $30 from vendors, or there is something similar available at local parts store, but if you can, support our vendors – our cars need them to be around. This is a simple DIY project.<br />
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<b>Coolant Bottle</b><br />
If you are still running with the original plastic coolant reservoir bottle – change it. Not to improve the look of your engine bay, but as a good preventive measure. Those original bottles were prone to bursting with cooling system issues, the modern bottles are made of stainless steel, and look great in the engine bay.<br />
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Cost: Approximately $140. from both DMC and SpecialTAuto.com (but the latter includes the mounting brackets).<br />
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<b>The “valley of death”(VOD) job.</b><br />
A VOD job on our cars is a must do if you are not sure how long it as been since something similar was done. Essentially this is a clean up and preventive measure, for the top of the engine block. That area is not normally visible as it is directly covered by our intake system, but underneath there, our block has some deep cavities, that over time collect grime, leaves, twigs, miscellaneous parts that fall in, and in some cases even dead rodents(!). This same area, specifically the cavities, have been known to get eaten away with years of corrosion, and sometimes creating, or contributing to create, block damaging cracks and holes – thus the “valley of death” moniker.<br />
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The job is not that difficult if you are handy and comfortable with working on cars, but best left to qualified DeLorean vendors otherwise. There are great documentation topics of VOD jobs on DMCTalk.com, so I won’t attempt to cover it here, but I did perform this project on 2109, during July 2008 (and with online assistance and support from other owners, enthusiasts, and vendors). I summarized the entire experience in a short youtube video as follows:<br />
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As you can see from the video, this project is an opportunity to clean up the area, coat it with a protective paint, and even replace some potentially future trouble parts in that area (sensor, water pump, thermostat, internal hoses and their clamps). Some specific detailing performed were:<br />
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<u>Under the intake, the top of the block.</u><br />
The picture below shows this area cleaned (Simple Green, soft wire brush, dry off, repeat many times) now painted (POR-15), along with several replaced components.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeVOtruS6YoJKX817cyU2HzNskkOBdoYG0x5Cizzkbk163zYBvSxE0DtUaF5JG8CSv7nHmfKcAihiZCeDKblJqyDC4QyKAvwR4oxA8Zdgv17hiF1vwuyZhzolDaWp77UwK39L1MZ-yT9Q/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21g.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297676773695111954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeVOtruS6YoJKX817cyU2HzNskkOBdoYG0x5Cizzkbk163zYBvSxE0DtUaF5JG8CSv7nHmfKcAihiZCeDKblJqyDC4QyKAvwR4oxA8Zdgv17hiF1vwuyZhzolDaWp77UwK39L1MZ-yT9Q/s320/Blog_Pic_21g.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 236px;" /></a><br />
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Performing this job is also an excellent opportunity to clean up some parts that need to be moved out of the way, while this job is underway.<br />
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<u>Rewired main harness</u> – notice that in the pictures above there in an unobstructed view into the air mixture screws, above the intake W-pipe, or intake horns. This is because the main harness was re-routed to go under the passenger side of the intake. In a stock DeLorean the harness comes across and above the top of the driver’s side of the intake.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha93CNowfUGPPwW9tlYTAAyjnO2x885IdAyqdwsHEbLnf_dFLiQmYJsjoWU52JSty8dpfNcUe9LR8rNE03BKkJrlw4eWEQkfmEIv_DqO1Nm6NJLkeoL5a7V4Z5aNr40IqCm3wGxO7B-fY/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21f.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297677005153830242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEha93CNowfUGPPwW9tlYTAAyjnO2x885IdAyqdwsHEbLnf_dFLiQmYJsjoWU52JSty8dpfNcUe9LR8rNE03BKkJrlw4eWEQkfmEIv_DqO1Nm6NJLkeoL5a7V4Z5aNr40IqCm3wGxO7B-fY/s320/Blog_Pic_21f.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 259px;" /></a><br />
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Cost: This modified harness (Part #:110185) is available from DMC for just under $200., but other owners have taken their original one apart and reorganized it, to accomplish the same effect.<br />
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<u>Clean and paint components</u><br />
The picture above also shows several brackets that were painted, they were originally black with grime and dirt. The intake manifold is a chrome plated Ebay find, that sat on my shelf for over a year awaiting this project. A good sandblasting and painting of your existing one, will most likely yield a major improvement to this prominent part on your engine bay.<br />
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The picture below shows a before and after of 2109's air mixture unit, cleaned as discussed above, and painted with Duplicolor Gold and Aluminum colors.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0Vm-1IfODzqmP5ew_2RNcOxUOCLBozQg8BFnRFEsSR-vOS029ZzdezUGcMr96Wpoia_rje4-icejVcb59bc1HV2o9Z91Xi8X-y2byNX-5ILlIbPO3JQcXqV0HXHIZPw_1xsx-CHjY2o/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21e.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297677534336746626" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp0Vm-1IfODzqmP5ew_2RNcOxUOCLBozQg8BFnRFEsSR-vOS029ZzdezUGcMr96Wpoia_rje4-icejVcb59bc1HV2o9Z91Xi8X-y2byNX-5ILlIbPO3JQcXqV0HXHIZPw_1xsx-CHjY2o/s320/Blog_Pic_21e.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 303px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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…and before and afters of the throttle assembly:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihIX_gMleuVRcl4FThbUP6g9tB5-UkpjQhsm8t78wuG-kbCeZTKVHpemglujTXgUQ0rJnH3l9nqEc7XrBP5U_TIyVo8lVqvlEyG__LAPL4v6Qyd7c8ab-hGgVy9L-5kPpaNtqN65vKpvc/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21h.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297677770394902546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihIX_gMleuVRcl4FThbUP6g9tB5-UkpjQhsm8t78wuG-kbCeZTKVHpemglujTXgUQ0rJnH3l9nqEc7XrBP5U_TIyVo8lVqvlEyG__LAPL4v6Qyd7c8ab-hGgVy9L-5kPpaNtqN65vKpvc/s320/Blog_Pic_21h.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 239px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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Cost: I suppose if you have this done, this could easily run well over $1000. in labor alone. As a DIY project, it cost me about $480 in parts and 75 hours (by myself, with some minor complications (seen in video), and I don’t work fast as I took plenty of breaks, and took lots of pictures, done on weeknights and weekends over a 6 week period. Others have done the basic work in much, much less time.<br />
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<b>Valve Covers</b><br />
They are very prominent in the engine bay, so these are on the top of a list for cosmetic improvements. The driver’s side is the most tricky to take out, because you have to temporarily relocate the bulky compressor with its lines attached, but overall this is just an unbolt, paint, bolt back on procedure. The picture below shows the passenger side cover after it was painted and reinstalled, unfortunately the air intake covers a large portion of this one.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35VVRgqxJrVEryUwBA-6dHHHk4RdbrTS7UaAqOwtNj0j3sACDP2pGNbe_dGZ6rR2aQ172uyKGeVPrkZuv1muXrJs_BO44u2ooY4uqwXhFBikNrNPqVWW77sbqCKHej9lFzWHgI0bJu0E/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21c.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297677966159105954" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj35VVRgqxJrVEryUwBA-6dHHHk4RdbrTS7UaAqOwtNj0j3sACDP2pGNbe_dGZ6rR2aQ172uyKGeVPrkZuv1muXrJs_BO44u2ooY4uqwXhFBikNrNPqVWW77sbqCKHej9lFzWHgI0bJu0E/s320/Blog_Pic_21c.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 272px;" /></a><br />
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Cost: I can only comment on a DIY solution and it was less than $20 for one can of spray paint, and some replaced bolts.<br />
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<b>Ignition Resistors</b><br />
Because of their location and its color, a cleaned up ignition resistor adds a nice tidy detail to the overall look of the engine bay.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ245uvizfYm5eQIR4GCUoAUgRrncf-1GQoTuCkZYJgFk2KxoWYV2OG8Ace2bua823G7-hBt9_Vw_amTudYwf80QGYvBDawnhmw50zoMJlgbDXYGSFpI8NOTbKNyyZJt5AeyxFaHT5QKA/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21b.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297678146283814498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ245uvizfYm5eQIR4GCUoAUgRrncf-1GQoTuCkZYJgFk2KxoWYV2OG8Ace2bua823G7-hBt9_Vw_amTudYwf80QGYvBDawnhmw50zoMJlgbDXYGSFpI8NOTbKNyyZJt5AeyxFaHT5QKA/s320/Blog_Pic_21b.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 187px; width: 311px;" /></a><br />
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Cost: Your time to scrub away, I used Simple Clean and a soft-ish wire brush to work off the grime.<br />
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<b>Vinyl Caps</b><br />
This is a relatively simple one, the AutoParts store sell a pack of PVC caps for about $5.00. These caps can be used on your door plungers, and also to cover up those two bolts on the left side of the bay (pictured below) and even the ground lug on the opposite side.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjyfui_vUT-JKHxPIo9ngnaqg0LbrRueX44cj4PA_DQGPQygFNMFtnc2-Tzygo54Ej18ZZSWWZaQ1HenSByV56glMrUCMRePd8TMJvcBOPCC6nGRHUKHh6kZEnpcZD4D0A-_TUQj_PWg/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21k.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297678323702720546" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbjyfui_vUT-JKHxPIo9ngnaqg0LbrRueX44cj4PA_DQGPQygFNMFtnc2-Tzygo54Ej18ZZSWWZaQ1HenSByV56glMrUCMRePd8TMJvcBOPCC6nGRHUKHh6kZEnpcZD4D0A-_TUQj_PWg/s320/Blog_Pic_21k.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 317px; width: 265px;" /></a><br />
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<b>A/C Compressor</b><br />
Another prominent part in your engine bay, is the A/C compressor. This is a tricky component to clean up or exchange, because it entails extracting and recoveing all the Freon, before you can disconnect the compressor. As I am doing, unless there is some major A/C service to be done I will leave mine as is - but this is definately another prominent part of your engine bay so it is definately an area to clean up.<br />
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<b>A/C Idler Bracket and Pulleys</b><br />
This one you can argue is both a cosmetic and an upkeep item. If you are running the original pulleys and bracket, chances are they can use a good clean up and your bearing may not be at their best. Replacing the bearings on the pulleys also yields a slightly quieter running engine.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCRL-9DkCe3Fx7LAKW9PMNhn_UTGOrs0mfuh4LVJLUGuRbT7KHHtaNknwv_NKsfGLXtSDCEJLRiHTVrYNQqoYv9gIr0WHmFbYeBPpTTggLcazEjt_SL-x6VNesiOJUsln5ufrRzfUdac/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21a.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297678483767876146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCRL-9DkCe3Fx7LAKW9PMNhn_UTGOrs0mfuh4LVJLUGuRbT7KHHtaNknwv_NKsfGLXtSDCEJLRiHTVrYNQqoYv9gIr0WHmFbYeBPpTTggLcazEjt_SL-x6VNesiOJUsln5ufrRzfUdac/s320/Blog_Pic_21a.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 217px;" /></a><br />
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Cost: You can do all this work yourself, but SpecialTAuto.com can send you the bracket and pulley as shown above, for about $50 plus shipping and a $100 core charge, which is refundable when you send him back your old bracket/pulleys. SpecialAuto's pulleys with new bearings, are definately not as noisy as my original 27 year old pulleys.<br />
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<b>Engine Bay Light</b><br />
Here's a quick project, how about replacing that old yellowed engine bay light? The merits of that light are debatable; however, since it's there may as well update it with a newer one.<br />
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Below is a before and after shot:<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2QBpgtcMjio29glJr9bj7YIKQpOMVG4Rgc2ZMGLSq2RgIwuW5taK1GT063MxHoIHFQOPJwtenR2jhe_4kFwOlBUw2Qjq-xRn2RDYndQlm6MKPXY0ay7MRjREkuYNXPMZwAHIob5kidiE/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21m.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300549012145409970" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2QBpgtcMjio29glJr9bj7YIKQpOMVG4Rgc2ZMGLSq2RgIwuW5taK1GT063MxHoIHFQOPJwtenR2jhe_4kFwOlBUw2Qjq-xRn2RDYndQlm6MKPXY0ay7MRjREkuYNXPMZwAHIob5kidiE/s320/Blog_Pic_21m.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 171px; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
It's a subtle change, but it does overall contribute to a clean up.<br />
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Since I was going to replace this light, I decided to also incorporate a simple mod. I often find myself wanting to be able to turn off this light (daytime, engine lid up), and to do so, I'd have to unplug it at the switch (by the lid hinge) and remember to re-plug it. A better solution would be for the light to have a switch. The picture below shows a comparison of the orignal and the new housing with the light switch mod (also note comparative condition of conductive internal brackets).<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGxy5cL9eEuU3VvP_Qdnpqmc_HFYVP-ZESpFCxtHFPbLQ7YNGlu3Va6u9D0Mecj2oa5QZGtxuI-f5axUxPkkx8F6S0s8uPc72aNZsC7NErwQPbeeLGMZ3-llg-WmLTfmRor62ATAWs_6M/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_21l.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300548925778835410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGxy5cL9eEuU3VvP_Qdnpqmc_HFYVP-ZESpFCxtHFPbLQ7YNGlu3Va6u9D0Mecj2oa5QZGtxuI-f5axUxPkkx8F6S0s8uPc72aNZsC7NErwQPbeeLGMZ3-llg-WmLTfmRor62ATAWs_6M/s320/Blog_Pic_21l.jpg" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 262px;" /></a><br />
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Cost: New old stock lights are available from DMC (or your local DMC Dealer) as part number 100439, the current price is about $27.<br />
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<b>Painting the Engine Bay</b><br />
This is best done with the engine out of the bay, however, very impressive results have been achieved by a local Florida owner without removing the engine.<br />
He documented the experience and results here: <a href="http://www.deloreanreborn.com/index.php?itemid=127">Deloreanreborn.com</a><br />
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<b>Customization</b><br />
Although not in my sights nor current plans, there are custom components available that can be integrated into your engine bay, for that different look. A short list of those are:<br />
Stainless air cleaner unit (SpectialTAuto.com)<br />
Braided stainless fuel lines (SpectialTAuto.com, and DMC-CA)<br />
Different color vacuum lines (cut to size as a kit, at SpectialTAuto.com)<br />
Nology kit, with beefier spark plug wires (DMC)<br />
Custom stainless throttle cover (www.robomerchant.net/DeloreanCarShow)<br />
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<b>Conclusion...</b><br />
So that’s it, as you can see with time, and a little elbow grease every now and then, you can make some visual improvements to your car’s engine bay. Many of these improvments are also good preventive measures, which will contribute to provide you with many more enjoyable DeLorean miles ahead.<br />
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<b><i>Addendum 08/12/2010</i></b><br />
There are often questions, and I had a bunch, of how to route the new engine bay harness. Below you will find 4 pictures, the first my questions about routing prior to installing the new harness. The next three pictures, address most of the questions of the first picture, as they are pictures after the harness was installed. (You can click on the pictures for a larger view.)<br />
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Questions, questions, questions, I had....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRatU_igHW4b6sepQoaYIV4u7A3GQtxSZcYcdBLRrQPyziwwnSfZOvA1QSJ3gZuAPQj2c2auLHmqscVvvf9zUxbEdAqIxqZgSVlOFIJvDmMRqKRnlaCZBYWiNcloQ5IS9jcmg1V2dZHUo/s1600/Pic+01+Questions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRatU_igHW4b6sepQoaYIV4u7A3GQtxSZcYcdBLRrQPyziwwnSfZOvA1QSJ3gZuAPQj2c2auLHmqscVvvf9zUxbEdAqIxqZgSVlOFIJvDmMRqKRnlaCZBYWiNcloQ5IS9jcmg1V2dZHUo/s640/Pic+01+Questions.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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How it turned out/answers...<br />
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------ If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> postings. Thanks.------Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-6627823902351698162008-12-31T13:41:00.004-05:002008-12-31T14:23:11.256-05:00DeLoreans Sold on eBay - 2008 Q4 UpdateThe Q4 Update of DeLorean sales on eBay is updated.
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<br />This is from data for the last 26 months as of December 2008, and it shows the resulting trends.
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<br />For the direct link <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2008/03/deloreans-sold-on-ebay.html">click here</a>.
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<br />I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
<br />Thanks.Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2859136101794381276.post-42969424447333423072008-11-30T19:55:00.015-05:002009-10-03T13:58:20.210-04:00LEDs are cool.<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ySdhENPkWZFgPYkB7nF_TaqBu2AciKvIh1mP1UR3JgJnpOPOX807s3XKUeqG3bcVjQkBHu3uowMg0p933MViJ18o9ZT64vZi2stLhQHken-ovWZpExzIcdE1OP8vpfjf0DI_IqqPyFE/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20a.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 242px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ySdhENPkWZFgPYkB7nF_TaqBu2AciKvIh1mP1UR3JgJnpOPOX807s3XKUeqG3bcVjQkBHu3uowMg0p933MViJ18o9ZT64vZi2stLhQHken-ovWZpExzIcdE1OP8vpfjf0DI_IqqPyFE/s320/Blog_Pic_20a.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274620640102060770" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Intro</span><br />I’ve been working on my engine bay as funding and time allows. One of the first updates that I did in this area was to modernize the engine bay's light, to an LED. You all know by now the advantages of LEDs (lower current drain, less heat), but I thought it would be interesting to document here the actual temperature differences.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Details</span><br />For these tests, I popped the lens/cover out form the housing, and began readings with the current LED that I am running. First I took an ambient temperature reading. (The instrumentation used is an EXTECH multimeter, with an IR Temperature sensor.) The first picture below shows an 81F (27C) ambient temperature.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju1hgWat3iCueqGpgp2oQiW-ln-A6aRAoLJL53w5UHaP2-vfGSlcCF7Wu6lUJ9Jclec81Ek4qeutnrvfVoV8pS8mBHG5CUFQdmk_lb9YQY8asxMsXPj5VU2P0hlS1bZ3hb7iJ-moI84J8/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20b.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 123px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju1hgWat3iCueqGpgp2oQiW-ln-A6aRAoLJL53w5UHaP2-vfGSlcCF7Wu6lUJ9Jclec81Ek4qeutnrvfVoV8pS8mBHG5CUFQdmk_lb9YQY8asxMsXPj5VU2P0hlS1bZ3hb7iJ-moI84J8/s320/Blog_Pic_20b.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274620822234740146" /></a><br /><br />Energize! This next picture is the temperature reading on the same spot, of the LED light, as you can see there is no measurable temperature rise. Perhaps over time it may go up a degree or so, but it never feels much if any, warmer than ambient.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEoLWiQHs22uMVzUVOAYbHo7KPEyP3kMqTVix3PwcrlTfWnFPQdXkY6Y3jmpaFLF37n5v4ExIodt-AKSYNOJXVUnUSu7CWxZPbptDguNxNcsJL4Y7VAmqCQdMZkoL-wzsQ2CJJXlhNv1M/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20c.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 125px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEoLWiQHs22uMVzUVOAYbHo7KPEyP3kMqTVix3PwcrlTfWnFPQdXkY6Y3jmpaFLF37n5v4ExIodt-AKSYNOJXVUnUSu7CWxZPbptDguNxNcsJL4Y7VAmqCQdMZkoL-wzsQ2CJJXlhNv1M/s320/Blog_Pic_20c.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274620955855469906" /></a><br /><br /><br />Next up is our old friend the incandescent bulb. The temperature began to rise quickly, I snapped this first picture at 231F (111C)…<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Cjrxr5jE6ccyZleWKZZIJ0lgWV7noje7v_s5NDPR2Iohkak-kgSpRw83Ycu4ts_0cRtMOeOzBDWvM_4VZKZr3VeyZnDODISPOgtpLHo4dfhig5ekKB2lk72irVTXgSjGUfiI0NwwyaY/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20d.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 112px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_Cjrxr5jE6ccyZleWKZZIJ0lgWV7noje7v_s5NDPR2Iohkak-kgSpRw83Ycu4ts_0cRtMOeOzBDWvM_4VZKZr3VeyZnDODISPOgtpLHo4dfhig5ekKB2lk72irVTXgSjGUfiI0NwwyaY/s320/Blog_Pic_20d.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274621195174537538" /></a><br /><br />...and I stopped after this picture, at 278F (137C):<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMC3cGBKChM-iqMCylmM4vo7YiGGRum-SKhxbz-2t4gZdu-4oT0NDigMQpUVleOJNgue7co3i5m5XEUwjqdcY3TemV9iiejL3VIEnwjQ-tYV2reisq1bIvoeIO7Y1GOHvA7N3UJwP1AXo/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20e.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 115px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMC3cGBKChM-iqMCylmM4vo7YiGGRum-SKhxbz-2t4gZdu-4oT0NDigMQpUVleOJNgue7co3i5m5XEUwjqdcY3TemV9iiejL3VIEnwjQ-tYV2reisq1bIvoeIO7Y1GOHvA7N3UJwP1AXo/s320/Blog_Pic_20e.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274621452756050754" /></a><br /><br />After a brief cool down, the bulb was literally too hot to handle.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSPxN5yhjdC8Zvj1cmPADzCrwbuAA6wo_MUbbUPTfyJ0pdWm8Rdm9uRrWJkKZsyADglx2UxDm8RnjJ1vkgmQrWsibtMhSMMy1rTiVtUtGTY9qejStVGyPQ7HrK68l-omBRDVZtkRj9XpI/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20f.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 127px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSPxN5yhjdC8Zvj1cmPADzCrwbuAA6wo_MUbbUPTfyJ0pdWm8Rdm9uRrWJkKZsyADglx2UxDm8RnjJ1vkgmQrWsibtMhSMMy1rTiVtUtGTY9qejStVGyPQ7HrK68l-omBRDVZtkRj9XpI/s320/Blog_Pic_20f.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274621745658766386" /></a><br /><br />...which is about where it stabilizes at, which is nearly 200F (110C) above ambient <span style="font-style:italic;">with the lens cover off</span>! Imagine opening the engine bay and activating this light, on a warmer day, and with a warmed up engine bay, and it is understandable how those added degrees could contribute to a 27 year old plastic housing meltdown. : (<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Summary:</span><br />So, as shown, it’s no surprise that every now and then we see or hear of a melted engine bay light housing. It's one of those "factory quirks" our cars have. Oh, and by the way, the internal cabin dome lights (above rear view mirror, and on rear shelf) are made to have the same incandscent bulb, housed in ...another plastic housing.<br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">References</span><br />So this is a simple fix, go to your favorite vendor and order an LED replacement light kit.<br />DMCH (or your local DMC facility) have them for $1.99 each (#SP11305).<br /><br />The one that I have pictured is not a DMCH product, it is from www.superbrightleds.com. Specifically, these are their Festoon bulbs (4210-WHP6)<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUOMxAKQcxo0PauvzgRSgpZhUL0Gw29e-TX0Gzg7XjpO6Tst5Yb9wTkueCOvLrTsTJtDTBIjQzJOAlxMN-V3MeLXZl-7NNEyKWvQ1ZIiO5khUqpplU-lo5oisFes3kHVT6ij5TsnoZRIw/s1600-h/Blog_Pic_20g.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 202px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUOMxAKQcxo0PauvzgRSgpZhUL0Gw29e-TX0Gzg7XjpO6Tst5Yb9wTkueCOvLrTsTJtDTBIjQzJOAlxMN-V3MeLXZl-7NNEyKWvQ1ZIiO5khUqpplU-lo5oisFes3kHVT6ij5TsnoZRIw/s320/Blog_Pic_20g.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5274622326426784738" /></a><br />Picture from: www.superbrightleds.com/specs/festoonhp.htm<br /><br />They're relatively expensive at $15 per bulb, but what is neat about these is that not only are they bright, consume less power, run cooler, but they also carry them in a “warm white” option. This is different from the typical LEDs that have a blue-ish hue to them. The “warm white” options tries to duplicate the warm, light yellowish, color of an incandescent bulb – and it’s pretty close (I used their equivalent “warm whites” on my dash, and I really liked how that turned out). This color option is closer to the look of an 80's car, where as the typical blue-ish LEDs seem (to me), not in line with the car's vintage.<br /><br />It’s tough to capture in pictures, but the first picture above is the best shot, in the dark, in an attempt to capture both the illumination and color of this bulb. Had I used the “cool white” you would have seen a bluish tint on the picture. <br /><br />Unlike the incandescent version, these are directional, that is they only illuminate on one side, and per their spec, on a 120 degree light arc. I haven't found this to be a problem, and again you can reference the picture above to see the result. <br /><br />Oh ... and if you do order them through SuperbrightLEDS.com, don't use this bulb on the interior, it is much too bright for that application.<br /><br /><br />>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the <a href="http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2009/10/best-of-postings.html">"Best of"</a> postings. Thanks.<<<Ozzie H.http://www.blogger.com/profile/17400352596392125417noreply@blogger.com0