DeLorean Ownership & Upkeep

DeLoreans Sold on eBay: 2011 EOY Update

2012-01-02T11:45:00.000-05:00

The 2011 EOY Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 62 months, up through the end of 2011, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.

Thanks.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea, and more feasible than ever.

2011-07-11T21:05:00.018-04:00

As of this month, 2109 is 100% LEDs.

This upgrade was done over time, sections at a time, and the final LEDs were the rear tail light ones that I put in this week. Now, when I state 100% LEDs, I mean every bulb socket in the car now has an LED bulb on it, with one mandatory exception (on the instrument cluster, discussed below), and of course the headlights (...for now).

Edit (09/11/11): A few of you have been kind of enough to send me some corrections to the Superbright part numbers. I've made the corrections below in italics. Thanks.

Below you will find a discussion primarily related to the maximum current draw that the battery will see by the battery, when the car is off and certain lights are turned (or accidentally left) on - and how to dramatically decrease that load with LEDs. Additionally an LED conversion also assists to remove alternator load once the car is running, as some of those same bulbs and a few others come into play.

Finally in the last section of the write up below you will will find an extensive discussion of all the bulbs used on the car, and at least one example of its LED equivalent.

So onward.

PART I

Wonder what the max possible battery current draw is, on a parked car?

I sure did and asked on DMCTalk.org what was the current draw when the light switch is clicked ON, at the first setting, for a stock all incandescent bulb-ed DeLorean. This would be the reference point.

To summarize, this setting would power and light up:

Tail lamps, Driving Lights: 2

Front Indicators: 2

License plate: 2

Door Lights: 4 (assumes both doors open)

Fender side driving lights: 4

Dome Lights: 2

Cig Lighter, illumination: 1

AC Panel, illumination: 7

Instrument cluster illumination: 5

No takers at the time on that request, but Dave McKeen from DM-Engineering did quickly respond with a calculated value. I added a few other bulbs to that number, to match the list above, and that is what I am basing my estimate on, as a reference. The value: 6 Amps.

Even on a somewhat beefy 50-60 amp hour battery, that is for sure enough of a battery drain, to prevent a start up in a few hours. Remember that for start up, you need enough juice left for the fuel pump to prime, and for the battery sucking starter to crank the car.

100% LED Comparison

Method to test: Disconnect ground cable from battery. Connect ground cable to one of the multi-meter’s probe, the other probe to the battery. The meter in now in series with the current flow, and setting the meter to read current values, will make it display the resulting current draws. I trickle charged the battery overnight, in order to test with a fully charged battery.

So with all incandescent bulbs replaced with LEDs, I proceeded to test out the current draw. My base line readings were 12.62V and with a standby draw measured at 21mA; that is the current draw of the car sitting parked, doors shut, thus no lights on. That’s a pretty small draw, the only things on at that point are the clock standby power, alarm/keyless receiver, door lock module.

Results?

Now to answer the main question, I clicked the light switch to the first position, and saw the reading go and stay at: 1.25 Amps

Yowza, recall that with incandescent bulbs it was calculated at 6 Amps, so going to LEDs was an 80% reduction in current draw, or 1/5th of the original load, on the battery.

It may actually may be more because this is based on a calculated draw. Oh, and I have some foot well LEDs installed by previous owner, so that's a little draw than a stock car would see.

Want to see more current drawn from the battery?

Just for yucks I went further , here are reading with progressive loads in sequential order.

0.02 A : Car parked, no lights on.

0.17 A : Open driver’s door: (LEDs on doors and two interior dome lights)

0.28 A : Above, open other door as well.

0.42 A : Above, plus engine bay light (also an LED)

1.25 A : Above, and light switch clicked on (All interior LEDs including instrument cluster and exterior driving lights)

8.05 A : Above, and headlights on (not testing LED effect now, just seeing battery loads)

>10 A : Above, plus high beam lights (Ha. Blew 10A fuse on multi-meter).

(Remember, this load is 100% drawn from the battery, the car is not yet turned on to allow the alternator to take over, as well as to recharge the battery.)

Practical values to this?

Well, as i see it, the practical values of LEDs in cars in general, and to 100% LEDs, are:

1. Good way to check and maintain all your light sockets/connections

OK, not truly LED related, but this conversion project will have the benefit that you’ll go through and be able to inspect all your related sockets. I was lucky I only found one socket (front indicator) with some slight corrosion on it (lens was not tight). If you find something like this, depending on the size of the socket, a small file or even a wire brush on a Dremel at low settings would be a good idea. Inspecting all the sockets like this, at the end of the conversion, all your sockets will be refreshed for continued service life.

2. Longer bulb life

Generally a good LED will be at 50% brightness from new for a very long time; however, this is a function of the type of LEDs used, how they are packaged, and how they are used. You will not get a very long life out of a very very cheap LED bulb, and especially if you put in less that office room temperatures; there is a reason for the inexpensive ones, those are cranked out in bulk, and generally suffer shorter service lives. Because I have had good luck for a few years now with thm, I recommend buying from a well established distributor like SuperbrightLEDscom.

Note also that generally the SMD (surface mounted device) LED bulbs that are composed of yellow-ish square chips on a small circuit board, are a higher quality LEDs, are brighter, but more expensive. If you can’t afford to go all SMD LEDs, then consider those at least for high usage applications (e.g., brake lights), or very bright requirement (e.g., engine bay), applications.

3. Larger selection of bulb colors

I’ve seen other owners play with different colors on the doors and the A/C panel and even the instrument cluster, with interesting and novel looks. Note though, sometimes there is a slight up charge on colors. Also, to get away from the blue-ish white and a 'warmer' white, you'll generally have to move to the SMD LEDs.

4. Brighter light output selection

LEDs by default generate a very narrow dispersed light cone. LED bulb manufacturers compensate for this by putting a cluster of multiple LEDs together in different location (radially, top, sides) on one bulb, to both get more light output and better dispersion. In my case I put a 19 light LED in the foot wells, and it is very bright at night and …well that’s the next point. For certain applications, as in the tail lights, I’ve used 39 or 48 bulb LEDs.

5. Much less heat on the housings (applies more to dome lights)

The differences are very great in resulting surface temperatures of an incandescent versus an LED bulb. I measured the dome light in the engine with an LED bulb, and then with the incandescent version. On a 70 degree F day, an IR thermometer on the surfaces showed LED: 81 degrees F, Incandescent: 278 degrees F. LEDs run much, much cooler.

I prevously documented this with pictures on a previous posting. Posting: "LEDs are cool." After that little test, it quickly became evident why I’ve seen pictures of the engine bay’s plastic housing deformed from the heat of the bulb.

6. Better chance to recover from an accidental dome light left on overnight incident.

It happens, we leave an internal car light on overnight, and that one bulb can take a battery down, especially if the battery is not at full capacity or nearing its life. With LED bulbs, the draw is much less, and you will probably be able to restart overnight on the same conditions.

7. ….and the bling effect:

How about, displaying your car at evening car shows with all the internal, engine bay, and external lights (excluding brake and driving headlights) on? Surely possible and for several hours, with an LED approach.

PART II

Shopping List

If you are interested in converting some or all of your car’s accessory bulbs to modern LEDs, here is a breakdown of the replacement components, along with some pertinent notes.

Going 100% will add up quick, and since this was not an urgent or “must” requirement, I wound up purchasing all the items over a few years, and installing them over that time. The main supplier that I used below is Superbrightleds.com. They changed part numbers a few years ago, and their website is not the easiest to navigate, but the following information will get you there with a few mouse click contributions on your part. Note that when you see an “X” in the part numbers below, this is replaced with the proper code, when you select on the site, for the color of the LED - they use multiple "X"'s for other options, Oh, one more thing about this vendor, they process and ship orders very promptly.

First Some Related Notes & Hardware

Does you car have any electrical issues with respect to lighting? Or, does your car experience large voltage fluctuations? If yours does, make sure you get that addressed first. Most of these LEDs can go as low as 10VDC, but if your electrical system is known to go under that, then consider when you put in LEDs that if you have to replace them because your car's electrical system killed them, the replacement costs for some of these can be relatively high. With that said, as I've worked on my car, and have tuned the car to eliminate hunting and experienced the resulting high/low voltage swings in the process, I have yet to burn out any of the LEDs in the process. So, just saying.

Flasher Unit/Relay: SuperbrightLEDs.COM, CF13GL-02 (Three pin, ground pin on left)

This part, the Hazard/Driving Indicator relay, is a requirement when you convert your front and rear indicator lights (amber ones) to LEDs. The stock relay from the 80’s doesn’t know how to handle the low load requirements of LEDs, so it actually will not make them turn on and off as fed by the turning signal or hazard warning button. A modern replacement that is compatible with LEDs is required. You can find these locally at auto parts store, just make sure it states that it is compatible with LEDs; or, you can add it to your shopping list with Superbrightleds.com (it’s well priced there too).

Approximately : $10-$20 (look for them on eBay as well).

Shown in picture above is the stock (left) relay, and the new LED compatible relay (right). Note when shopping around, #31/Ground is on the left, as shown.

Note: It happened to me, and happened to others as well. The connector on the harness where these plug into has become very fragile over time. The connector will most likely break apart, as you try to remove the original flasher unit. Just make sure you remember or mark the correct pin to wire configuration when you put the new one in, on a damaged socket.
Note 2: One small advantage to having the socket break up, is that you can now use the flasher units with the ground pin on either side - again, just make sure you are hooking them up correct.

Taillight Circuit boards

The second optional part of this upgrade, is the circuit board panel that hold the tail lamp lights. PJ Grady use to sell (still?) an upgraded, modern board that has over the years received many accolades. My car came with this upgrade and all information presented here was done on these boards. I can’t see why stock boards won’t work for this upgrade, but consider modernizing them if you can, older circuit boards especially if exposed to moisture tend to de-laminate internally and this creates random electrical glitches.

Qty: 2 (they are same for both sides).

PJ Grady

Approximately : $??? They aren’t listed anymore on his website.

DMCH: 101488

Approximately : $53 each. DMCH Part #101488

Dome Light Dimmer

If you change your dome lights, you will loose the dimming feature that the incandescent lights have. This is accomplished by a special relay in the fuse/relay area. However,since it uses 80's technology it is not compatible with today's low power, low resistance, on or off states only, LEDs. You have the option to just pull the relay (the white one) and have the LED lights either turn on or off as required, or there consider a direct modern replacement to keep the dimming functionality. DM Engineering designed and sells a solid state replacement relay, which works with either fluorescent or LEDs. I am running this module and it works great, it also has a parade feature, where the LEDs can be made to blink on and off. I wrote a pre-review of it here: "Sneak Preview: Dome Light Module - A Modern Replacement and Upgrade"

Dimmer Module: Module at right, example of solid state circuitry that is inside, of left

Available from: DM Engineering

Approximately : Please contact him through his website, link above.

LED Kits

If you prefer buying in kits, I am aware of a few:

LEDs for DMC kit for doors and domelights.

Approximately : $20

Fender Side Lights in LED: eBay vendor: tcbtexas

Approximately : $20/for the set

If you wish to use a different vendor, or not buy the kits, I’ve listed the individual LED bulbs along with the stock incandescent bulb’s designation, as a reference. Note that there are sometimes multiple designations for the same incandescent bulb type.

Individual Bulb Types

Type: Automotive Bayonet Bulbs

Incandescent designations: 1156, BA15S, 1157, BA15D

One of the most common bulbs for automotive use. It's a bayonet mount, and it comes in either single (1156) or double post (1157) form, the latter (double post) is only used in one location in our cars, the front blinker/indicator lights.

Tail lamps, Brakes:

Note 1: Ideally you want the brightest bulbs here, since they require the bulb's brightness to transmit through the rd lens, for daylight driving. The SMD versions that I’ve put on definitely do the job, but again, are the most expensive bulb here; I chose to only go SMD on the brake lights, since those are used the most in both day and night driving. For the rest of the lights I’ve used the regular multi-LED bulbs and today (in 2011) the prices of a 39 and even a 48 LED cluster bulb version, have very good daylight brightness, and are very reasonable in price.
Note 2: This is a great candidate for an LED replacement. Why? At idle, as in a stop light, take your foot off and then depress the brake pedal and watch the voltage gauge. The brake lights draw a sufficient amount of power from the electrical system that you can watch the needle twitch when they are illuminated. When I went to LEDs the twitch in the gauge is barely noticeable.

Qty: 4

Incandescent: 1156

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 1156-R18-T, Red (These are SMD, and pricey, but they are the higher quality and this is an application that gets a lot of use. See discussion above on quality and usage.)

Approximately : $16/each

Cheaper alternative: Red, GP Thunder GP1156-39R, eBay seller: premiertek_com

Approximately : $5/for a pair.

Here's a picture of the "GP Thunder" bulbs that I am referencing throughout. They are a very recent purchase, and while these are not the highest quality, they were cheap and are being used in low usage applications (reverse, blinkers), so we'll see how they do over time. You can use the picture and specifications to try different brands.

Tail lamps, Driving Lights:

Qty: 2

Incandescent: 1156

LED: Red, GP Thunder GP1156-48R, eBay seller: premiertek_com

Approximately : $5/for a pair.

…if you do a lot of night time driving, these may be also a good candidate for the higher quality, more expensive ones identified above, for the brake lights.

Tail lamps, Reverse:

Qty: 2

Incandescent: 1156

LED: White, GP Thunder GP1156-48W, eBay seller: premiertek_com

Approximately : $5/for a pair.

Tail lamps, Indicator:

Qty: 2

Incandescent: 1156

LED: Amber, GP Thunder GP1156-39A, eBay seller: premiertek_com

Approximately : $5/for a pair.

Taillight assembly, with all incandescent from several years ago.

Taillight assembly today, with all LEDs.

Front Indicators:

Qty: 2

Incandescent: 1157

LED: Amber, GP Thunder GP1157-18A, eBay seller: premiertek_com

Approximately : $5/for a pair.

Note: These are also a great candidate for an LED replacement. Why? Check the notes above about the brake lights.

Shown, LEDs installed in front indicator lights.

TYPE: FESTOON BULBS

Incandescent designation: Festoon bulb, most are L=38mm, I believe the engine bay is L=44mm.

Note 1: Because of their application requirements (low heat and high brightness), I prefer the SMD version of the festoon LED bulbs; however I have provided alternatives below as non SMD verions.

Note 2: These are prime candidate for LED replacements, as the incandescent versions run very, very hot.

Note 3: These “festoon” type bulbs are not always the exact length required, but the socket can contacts can be easily (and carefully) bent to adjust to the proper fit.

License plate:

Qty: 2

L=38mm

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3610-X4 (I went with SMDs here because I wanted brightness and a more of an original color/warm white).

Approximately : $3/each

Alternative: DMC SP11305 (or SP11304, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)

Approximately : $3/each.

Bonnet:

Qty: 1

L=38mm

Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3710-XHP3 (I went with SMDs here because I wanted brightness and a Approximately : $8/each There is an even brighter version (3710-XHP6), but I am not sure that it will fit (I'll updated here once I know otherwise.)

Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3610-X4: $3/each

Alternative LED: DMC SP11305 (or SP11304, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)

Approximately : $3/each.

Above is the bonnet light pulled out for a bulb replacement, it comes out easily enough with a little pull on the edges. The picture also shows the difference between "Cool Blue" and "Warm White". The former gives a more modern look, the latter looks more authentic to the original look of an incandescent bulb.

Engine bay:

Qty: 1

L=44 mm

Incandescent: Festoon bulb

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 4210-XHP6 (I chose the warm white so “X” was “WW”).

Approximately : $15/each. These are expensive but much brighter (has 6 SMDs) and higher quality than the alternative.

Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 39101-x6

Approximately : $2/each.

Alternative LED: DMC SP11304 (or SP11305, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)

Approximately : $3/each.

Dome Lights:

Carefully pry the dome light housing around the edge, to bright it down to access the bulbs.

Qty 2

L=38 mm

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3710-xHP3 ( for Front & Rear):

Approximately : $8/each These are expensive but much brighter and higher quality than the alternative.

Alternative LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 3911-x6

Approximately : $2/each.

Alternative: DMC SP11304 (or SP11305, not sure, please ask them if/when you order.)

Approximately : $3/each.

TYPE: WEDGE BULBS

Incandescent designations: Wedge base, Miniature Lamp, 168, 194

Door Lights:

Qty: 6 (4 amber and 2 red)

I've not purchased these individually, but if I did, I'd lean towards this:

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, WLED Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs, WLED-X5, 220 degree beam

Approximately : $3/each

However, others have listed that they've used these wider diameter ones:

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, T13-X6

Alternative: DMCH LED Door Kit

https://www.delorean.com/store/images/PRODUCT/medium/K111532.jpg
Approximately : $15/set.

I previously posted a how-to on these: Posting: "Let LEDs light your wings."

Above are two pictures of the same door light. It's interesting to note that in BOTH pictures, there are LEDs behind the lens. The picture on top were the LEDs that came with the car, they were probably five years old and cost a lot, the bottom picture is the same lens, now with a modern $3.00 LED inside. This really shows how the technology has evolved (brighter and cheaper).

Instrument Cluster:

Qty 15 (There are 16, but you do NOT replace the incandescent battery indicator bulb.)

Of the 15, five are for panel illumination, the rest are gauge indicators, these could be in "Cool White" or "Warm White" or just go crazy with other colors.

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, WLED Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs, WLED-X5, 220 degree beam

Note 1. The battery indicator bulb MUST remain incandescent or your car will not start – that is the way the car’s electrical system was designed, the bulb is part of the circuit.
Note 2. Others have experimented with colors here, I find that that “cool white” is a little too blue for my preferences with respect to the vintage of the car, so I went with the “warm white” version.
Note 3. For the panel illumination, you need the LEDs to replicate the very wide light angle that an incandescent bulb has. This is because their sockets are at 90 degrees to the plane of the panel, and the light needs to fill in through the sides. The 220 degree beam version LEDs, will accomplish this task.

Of the remaining 10, you will need to get 1 Blue, 1 Amber, 3 Green, 5 Red

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, WLED Miniature Wedge Base Bulbs, WLED-X1, 90 degree beam
Approximately : $3/each
Note: You don't need a high angle beam for the indicators, since they mostly need the light from the LED to project straight ahead.

Here is a shot of my dash some years ago, with all incandescent bulbs.

This is what it looks like today, with all "white warm" LEDs. It is brighter and sharper with LEDs, but not too bright. I think the 220 degree beam angle really did the trick. I think that in the picture below, though, the LEDs looks more blue-ish than they really are.

TYPE: Small Bayonet A7

Incandescent designation: 3839

AC Panel, illumination:

Qty 7

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, BA7s-X, color: “cool white”, 100 degree beam. Others have experimented with good results with red ones for the indicator (bottom three) lights.

Approximately : $1/each

Shown above, the AC panel, one of the indicator bulbs pulled out for reference.

TYPE: Small Bayonet A9

Incandescent designation: BA9, 1819, 1829

Fender side driving lights

Qty: 4 ( front: 2, amber; rear: 2, red)

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, BA9S-x4-x-12V (Specify R for Red, A for Amber)

Approximately : $2/each

TYPE: WEDGE BULBS, Minis

Incandescent designations: Automotive Miniature Bulb, 17, 18, 37, 70, 73, 79, 85, 86

Light switch:

Qty 1

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 74-X, color: “cool white”, 100 degree beam.

Approximately : $1/each

Hazard switch:

Qty 1

LED: SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM, 74-X, color: “red”, 100 degree beam.

Approximately : $1/each

Cig Lighter:

Qty 1

LED: Superbright: 74-X I went with green, 100 degree, not much illumination here, perhaps I'd go with white next time, or a more powerful bulb (as long as it is the same size).

Approximately : $1/each

TYPE: ODDBALL BULB

Incandescent: T10, threaded

Glove box

Qty 1

EDIT: Sorry folks, either this bulb changed from when I bought it because now this is exclusively for 9V applications. See below for updated recommendations.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

LED: E10-WHP, an oddball not easy to find, has a screw in E10 type socket. Found in “other” section at SUPERBRIGHTLEDS.COM (http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=OTHER )

Approximately : $10/each

The "oddball" a threaded T10 LED bulb.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Alternative:
Cory W. has identified a possible better and more inexpensive solution here: Alternative source for E10 LED

Also, I am finding that these are very popular in the scale model railroad applications. If you search ebay for "E10 LED" you will find many hits for this LED bulb, and even in different colors. Just watch the volume above the threaded base, you don't want to exceed what is shown in the picture above.

In closing...

I’ve done to the best of my recollection and research, on my own time, to describe as accurately as possible the best fit choices, so don’t be upset if I may have made a mistake along the way and caused you to order something incorrectly. Please assume full responsibility on your order of LED bulbs, your best bet is to pull out the replacement candidate first, and compare them against the picture on the website of your choosing. Doing so, you may also wish to experiment with bigger, brighter, different color, LED bulbs than specified above, just make sure that check the diameter and length for proper fit into the socket(s).

Hope this has been of value and is a future useful reference. I must say that as a result of running all LEDs, I was very pleased with an 80% reduction to the battery, on a the first light switch press, as well as to see a minimal draw at the voltage gauge, while running at idle from the current draw of incandescent brake lights and signal indicators.

Good luck with your LED conversion.

Update, 1 month later:

So I've had 100% LEDs for over a month now, and driving every weekend with this mod. I love that the volt gauge barely moves now when I apply brakes, and when my Son was down from college, he was very surprised at how bright the brake lights were in LEDs.

There are two things though that I should note:
The amber LED bulb cluster, make the rear turn signals a reddish-orange. I think that white LED bulbs may have been better, yet they look great in front.
The new LED compatible flasher relay (as above, sourced from SuperBrightLEDs) makes the hazard and blinking function work perfectly with all LEDs, but note that it is much quieter than the stock unit (which will not make your LEDs blink). If you're playing the radio loud, or just revving the engine high, the click-click sound is not as prominent as on the original.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings of this site. Thanks.<<<

The 2011 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated

2011-07-08T14:56:00.000-04:00

The 2011 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold on eBay for the last 57 months, up through the June of 2011, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.

Thanks.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

Can you see me now?

2011-02-28T23:59:00.002-05:00

This month’s posting is from a quick and effective project that I performed three years ago. The project was about improving blind spots through our mirrors.

Rear and side visibility is very important in day to day driving, and more so in a car that rides as low such as the DeLorean. Despite the rear louvers, I find rear visibility to be quite good, the major opportunities however with the side blind spots. The glass on the rear quarter panels does allow some sort of visibility to the sides, say in a lane change, but the real opportunity is with the side/door mirrors. There are several things that can be done to improve this.

Change the angle of the mirrors. Most of us were trained to set up our mirrors to be able to see a portion of the side of the car, as a reference. There is a different way to set up these mirrors, which decreases blind spots, and it is done by setting them up in coordination with the rear view mirror. To set them up this way, at a normal driving position, you observe what is visible on your rear view mirror, and note what is visible on the left end of the rear view mirror. Then you set up your left side mirror to duplicate the end point of the left side of the rear view mirror, with the right edge of the left side mirror. This will mean that the mirror will need to be rotated probably to its extreme outward position, and the side of your car will no longer be visible on the mirror. You do the same for the right side. What you then have, at a glance from rear view mirror, to either mirror, is a transition, a transition which nearly eliminates your car's blind spots. I implemented this on all our cars at home a few years ago, and will never go back. I can now quickly evaluate safe driving conditions for a lane merge, with this method with only using the mirrors. This works best with larger mirrors, and thus not as optimal with our DeLorean mirrors.
Change the standard side mirrors to the Convex or Multi-vex types. Most modern cars come with a convex passenger side mirror. These are the ones with the “Objects in mirror appear farther than they are”, because it allows a greater field of view by optically altering the view and results in objects looking farther away than in actuality. There are also “Multi-vex” type mirrors which are basically a convex mirror, but further optically alter the view at the mirror’s farthest end.
Combine option 1 and 2 above. This is what I chose to do.

More details and pictures to follow.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2010 EOY Update

2011-01-15T22:52:00.000-05:00

The 2010 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 51 months, up through the end of 2010, is now updated and summarized in graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.

Thanks.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all

2010-12-25T13:49:00.003-05:00

Merry Christmas & Happy Holidays to all.

Yup, haven't posted in a while but I am still around and so is 2109. I haven't posted topics in the last few months, but I intend to do so much more in 2011, because:

* I am now set up for mobile blogging and that allows me to upload content on the fly. Like this posting.
* I continue to track eBay sales of all DeLoreans, so starting in January I'll post the final 2010 summary.
* Have got to document a serious weight reduction effort, which has made the car a lil' bit faster.
* Will be starting (finally) the front suspension work in January. Which as I did on the rear suspension, I will document tips and lessons learned.

So tune back in, in 2011.
Hope you all have a great, fun, and safe Holiday, along with the best wishes on a great 2011.

DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2010 Q2 Update

2010-07-27T00:01:00.001-04:00

The 2010 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 45 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.

Thanks.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

Car Care App, Review & Use

2010-06-12T14:27:00.002-04:00

Introduction

Following this blog’s theme of "D" maintenance and upkeep, I think and trust that you'll find this an appropriate posting. This is about an an iPhone app, called “Car Care” ($4.99). Note that this app also works on the iPod Touch and the new iPads, and works just as well in Imperial or Metric units.

Car Care has been around for a while, it was one of the first applications of its kind on the iPhone. I've been using it for nearly two years now, so this review is based on the practical usage, and not just on the recent discovery of an app. Today there are others, and I have tried a few of them, but they are either poor copies of Car Car, or none of them can do everything, or as thorough, as this one. Additionally the author, Karl Becker, encourages and replies to feedback.

What is does

In a nutshell, this handy little program when properly fed with data (takes discipline, but it's a quick process), will provide you with: MPG performance, maintenance history and reminders, as well as a history/summary of ownership details and vital car facts.

Here is a shot of the opening screen, you can enter and track one, or all the cars the car that you own with this app. As you can seem you can customize this screen with your own background pictures.

Fuel Mileage History: Features

Once your vehicle(s) are set up, it then all starts with a gas fill up. You record type (set once if you always pump the same type), gallon (or liters) used, cost per gallon (or liters), and the odometer reading (miles or km). The entry screen looks like this:

It then automatically records the approximate (GPS synch speed sometimes throws it off) location, total fill cost, date and time. The manual entry work is done in under 30 seconds, so it’s quick and easy to collect and enter this data just after a fill up. So far this data is just record keeping, but the more you use it the better the available information becomes available.

On your second and follow up fills (can be partial fills as well), you then begin to create an MPG and vehicle history. Within a few entries, the program then will provide you a reasonably accurate summary of:

MPG average with graph (Selectable for all data or for a period of time).

Fuel cost graph, interesting to see the fluctuations over time.

Total fuel Cost

Avg Fuel Cost

Total distance logged

Fuel Cost per mile

MPG average, best, worst, and if you vary type, the avg by type of fuel.

Carbon footprint

Largest fuel fill

Most & Least Expensive fuel purchased

Avg Distance per fill

Avg Days between fills

Here is the "Vehicle Stats" page, for my daily driver (two iPhone screen fulls combined for clarity):

The "Graphs" screen shows your MPG performance on top, and a historical price of fuel cost/volume.

Fuel Mileage History: Usage

Looking at the summary above, it is certainly more data than you’d ever want, but this data is as useful as you make it, especially if you use the resulting information above to track to a goal and or to monitor performance.

Let me provide you with a recent example of how this data recently came in handy. Our other non-D quirky/classic car recently has started showing a drop in MPG performance from previous months of identical usage. Something changed, and it triggered us to think what it could have been. We recently found that one of the disk calipers was binding on a rotor, and we addressed it. In gasoline fill ups after that, we observed that the MPGs started to go back up. That’s a good example of how these types of programs can assist us to ensure that our classic (quirky) cars, are kept reliable and well maintained.

Maintenance History and Reminders: Features

The second major feature of this program has to do with maintenance, and I think that while this is generally useful, it becomes a handy preventative maintenance tool for owners of older cars.

Similar to the MPG data and results, you also record a vehicle maintenance by category and sub category, at what mileage it was performed, and the associated cost. You can then also set it up for automatic reminders at selectable intervals, for follow up maintenance. For example, the most obvious one being an oil change, you can have the program remind you of the follow up oil change based on either miles or time period elapsed. While that seems mundane and easy enough to not need a software program, you can also put in service reminders for many other pre-defined or custom maintenance or recommended manufacturer intervals.

This picture shows the Maintenance reminders on our Supra.

Once they are triggered they turn red, and you are reminded to check here at the app's icon, and each time you launch the app.

Tip: On newer vehicles, always reference your service guide for service recommendation, most shops including car dealer shops, often add intervals or services ($$) inside those factory recommendations. When in doubt, check your vehicle's manual for the official recommendations.

The service reminders are triggered by the odometer and date input from your gas fill ups, and you are offered pop up maintenance reminders, as well as a symbol reminder on the main screen in the form of a wrench on an orange box next to the associated vehicle(s), and the apps icon (number of reminders).

Perhaps not as useful, but interesting to compare amongst your different vehicles, the program does summarize all work done with the following statistics:

Total Service Cost (this is sometimes a scary number, with older, quirky/unique/classic cars)

Service Cost per mile

Maintenance History and Reminders: Usage

I have found the maintenance reminder feature very handy in setting up service reminders which I would have otherwise not recalled, such as for coolant flushes (once every 18 months, or 12K miles, is what I follow for good clean system), and tire rotations (worth it to follow as long as possible, to extend the time in having to purchase new tires).

If you have old service records you could also enter them in this app, sure there’s paper records; however, I find that having this type of information at your disposal (in your pocket) is a) handy when shopping for parts and you are not near the stack of receipts, and b) great for preventative maintenance e.g., anywhere, at a glance, you can see when the last time a clutch slave was changed, and how long it lasted in use, and even the part number or its equivalent cross over number for reference (e.g., out of town, looking for a 25 year old part).

Feature: Data Back Up

It would be a crime if you recorded all this data, and you change or worse lose your mobile device, because you would lose all this data and information. Cleverly the author allows the data for each car recorded to be emailed to you, as a text file, which imports into Excel well enough. If you wish, once in Excel you can dig deeper into data analysis, if you are so inclined.

Summary:

If you are vested in the Apple scheme of mobile devices, this is an excellent tool that integrates smoothly and in sync with your car hobbies, interests, and upkeep.

If you are outside of the Apple scheme of mobile devices, then join me in convincing the author to get this app into the Android market! LOL!

The author's support website is: http://www.karlbecker.com/carcare/
...and I just noticed he has a detailed video walk through of his program here:
http://www.karlbecker.com/carcare/car_care_screencast1.mov

==============================================================
If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

Let LEDs light your wings.

2010-04-11T18:35:00.003-04:00

Introduction

This is such a simple mod, that I've generally ignored documenting it. HOWEVER, to demonstrate the point of how simple and quick (and advantageous) this can be, I am doing this write up on it.

LEDs
LEDs are taking over the world. A melodramatic statment? Yes, but the technology has come a long way from the blinking red LED of ancient VCRs (..uhm, for you youngsters, that's how we use to record televised programs
in our day...on large casettes with a small reel of magnetic tape....ok, stop laughing now). Anyway, LEDs are still a little pricey, but every year they come down in price and newer better ones come along. Today they are pretty affordable, especially for this application.

Door Lights
Kudos to the DMC designers of the past, that thought it would be practical (and no doubt cool) to add fore, aft, and side lights to the gull wing doors. Back then they had no other practical choice but to use the lighting of the time, the little (wedge based) incandescent bulbs. Those lights while they do draw low power, if the doors are left open long enough, will eventually drain your battery; additionally, they are not very bright during the day time.

LED your door lights
Replacing your incandescent door lightbulbs with LEDs, fits perfectly with the theme of this blog. There are three distinct advantages to making this mod:
1) Replacement LEDs for your door lights, draw considerably less power than incandescent. Other owners have commented of leaving their doors open (thus door lights on) for a week, with no noticable battery drain.
2) These LEDs are brighter than their incandescent versions. I have seen at car shows our cars with brightly lit door lights - in bright daylight. They were all running LED lights.
3) Properly made and used, LED lights can last a very long time. It will most likely be years before you'd have to replace one of these new LED lights.

Where do I get them?

DMCH
DMCH has a convenient one stop shop for a kit of 2 red and 4 yellow multi-led bulbs, for $14.95 (+ shipping/handling)

LINK: http://www.delorean.com/store/p-10360-led-light-kit-doors-only.aspx

They are plug and play, take the old ones out, put these in. I have seen these used the most, and all observations noted above have been the DMCH kits.

Superbrightleds.com
If you want to experiment with brighter (needed?) or different colors, you can buy your own at Superbrightleds.com. On this link: Link to LED Wedge Bulbs ,the first group of LEDs shown, are the "WLED Minature Wedge Base Bulbs"...these are they ones typically used.
On the second group of bulbs shown at that link, titled "WLED Minature Wedge Base bulbs with High Power SMD LEDs"m are some variants that are said to be even brighter than the LED bulbs of the first group.

Installation, with pictures:
So let's see what it takes to put them in. As this article started, the installation is really very quick. Again, it's so simple that I've only read it described, but since digital pictures are cheap, here is the installation, documented with pictures:

1. Starting point. No need to unplug the battery for this as long as you don't mess with the wiring, and it also greatly assists the installation at a later step.

2. You want to pull the boot that holds the bulb and the lens, out of the door. You can try with your fingers, but I find that a screwdriver as a twisting wedge (being careful not to poke through the boot) is a good start.

3. Once you get an edge of the boot out, you can then pull out the rest with you fingers, out until it clears the door. You'll need to pull more than you may think you need to, and for goodness sakes don't pull on the wire behind it.

4. You now need to remove the lens from the boot, do this by pushing back on the front lip of the boot. Only one hand shown because the other was holding the camera. You may be able to take just the lens out without pulling to boot out, but I find this way easier and less likely to damage the lens or boot.

5. Lens comes out. If you'll notice I already had an LED bulb in there. My previous onwer had replaced these, and years back the bulb in there, which only has one LED on it was affordable enough, but not at all bright enough. Pull the bulb straight out.

6. Now plug your new bulb in. Note the socket position, and aligh the connector end of the LED bulb with it.

7. If the LED bulb does not immediately light up, pull out the LED bulb and spin it 180 degree and reinsert. LED bulbs unlike incandescnet bulbs are polarity sensitive, in that they will only work in one orientation. (This is where leaving the battery connected helps out do allow you do this only once.)

8. Reverse the process by replacing the lens on the boot, and pushing the boot back into its cutout on the door.

9. You are done. ...once you do the other five. : )

Conclusion
You now have very bright, low power, very cool looking door lights on your car. If you're still running incandescent bulbs, seriously consider this simple and relatively inexpensive upgrade to your car.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2010 Q1 Update

2010-04-02T00:05:00.002-04:00

The 2010 Q1 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 42 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.
For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
Thanks.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2009 Q4 (EOY) Update

2010-01-04T20:47:00.002-05:00

The 2009 Q4 (EOY) Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 38 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.
For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
Thanks.

Gremlin Hunt / Fuel Pump Area Upkeep

2009-12-14T22:49:00.032-05:00

This posting starts off with the picture above for several reasons.

First, and most relevant to this site, is that the picture represents 2109 (on left) out for a reliable and spirited weekend morning ride, after being down for the previous 4 weekends, until a malfunction was corrected.
Secondly, it is pictured next to my friend’s Mike’s D, which he recently got back on the road, and it is the first time both our cars were out for a drive together.
Lastly, the picture was taken from my son’s (who was down for Thanksgiving) ’85 Supra, which is a cool car itself, and it represented the 3^rd car of that weekend’s impromptu 80’s car cruise.

The Gremlin Hunt

Back to the blog posting, 2109 was down for 4 weekends, as I chased down a gremlin which was causing the car to at first buck, then stall, while driving. The stalling was as if someone reached in and turned the key off, as the car would restart just fine after it would stall. It got progressively worse where it would happen after 30 minutes of driving. The issue felt like an electrical problem, so it was time to chase it.

My approach would be to start at the fuel pump, and finish at the engine bay, on all related components. I knew that working only on weekends this would limit me to driving her until it was fixed, but I also knew that this meant that certain older untouched (by me) systems would get addressed.

In the order of attack, I would investigate and repair if required:

Fuel pump
Fuel pump connector (previously identified as a “connector of interest”)
Grounds for fuel pump.
Fuel pump connections at washer bottle.
Inertia switch & wiring
Fuse box area
Ballast connectors
Ignition Coil
Ballast resistor & wiring
Distributor cap & rotor

As expected from a car that at this writing is 28 years old, at each step above, something suspect was found, and then was corrected. In this posting I will only cover a few of the items above, and discuss and show what upkeep was done to those areas, which you may wish to consider for your car as well.

Fuel Pump Area

Since the symptom was the engine just stopping, the fuel delivery system, specifically its wiring, became suspect of possibly cutting out power to the pump, thus causing the engine to starve for fuel.

I must confess at this time that when I first got 2109, and was looking at references for parts replacements, the subject of anything to do with fuel, and work on fuel related parts was intimidating to me because of the respect that I had for working with gasoline - in my home garage. The project below became my best medicine to cure me of all the intimidation. I suppose the trick, for me, and what I recommend, is to not rush work in this area, and to take proper preventative safety measures.

And those measure are: Be respectful of working in this area, you are dealing in a potentially high combustion area, do take the proper precautions such as taking the battery offline prior to commencing the work, and having no spark or flame producing items near this work area. Also protect your hands from contact with fuel, and work in a well ventilated area.

Starting Point, Fuel Pump Area

The picture above, was when I first opened the access door about 20 months ago. This was uncharted area for me, since then except for the tank nearly everything there has been replaced today.

Before this Gremlin hunt, I had previously:

Replaced the original fuel sender for an updated one, then wound up putting the original back on (a story for another day)
Changed the fuel boot cover (discussed below).
Changed those orange fuel lines which were beginning to get brittle where they met the hard lines. This was producing a gasoline smell when the car was in the garage, so I took care of that promptly, and it did solve the fuel odor issue. For the replacement lines, I used new fuel hoses rated for high pressures.
Covered the AC hoses nearby with some pipe insulation to prevent them from rubbing on the access panel.

By the way there are some excellent looking fuel hose replacements available from Martin G. at Delorean delorean.co.uk, for $105 shipped anywhere. They come new fittings pre-crimped, as well as with a stainless dome nut and copper washers, for the fuel pump. Here is a picture of them, more information at his site:

Fuel Boot Cap

I’d previously had the boot cap off the fuel pump area and when I did, I noticed that it was very soft and it felt like it was thin and could easily puncture it. Months earlier I had ordered from Don Stegar's DeLorean Motor Center in California, their replacement boot which sells for $29.75 and has gotten some positive remarks from other owners. This replacement boot feels noticeably thicker and sturdier that the one that came with my car, and as I understand that it is less susceptible to fuel rot due to the ethanol mixes we are all currently having to purchase.

106684, Upper Fuel Pump Boot
DeLorean Motor Center, CA.

Another interesting feature of this new boot cap, is the the fact that the hoses that come out of it are a very tight fit. It took a little silicone spray to be able to force and pull the fuel hoses through them ... which is a good thing because they remain very secure and water tight, as installed.

Fuel Pump

Since the symptom was the engine just stopping, the fuel pump became suspect of possibly cutting out. I searched 2109's maintenance records (available since 1981) and found that I was running an 8 year old pump, which as about 15,000 miles – the age and miles weren’t terribly bad, but I figured that a refresh here may not be a bad idea, worst case is that it did not fix the issue, but at least I would have a new pump and good spare.

The pump came out fine, looking in great condition for its age.

Fuel Pump Baffle, Screen, and Pickup Hose

After the pump was out, the baffle remained inside the tank and was very easy to remove.

Referencing the service manuals and online parts catalog, my baffle was missing one set of hold down wires, and the bottom circular part.

That bottom part is important, because in effect instead of the baffle forming a drain cup to collect returning gasoline, without the bottom it was more of an in-place open collar. I suppose under low fuel conditions, this would cause fuel starvation, and especially with low fuel at an incline. On this topic, Dave Swingle from DMC-MW stated on DMCTalk, most of the early VIN cars did not have the bottom of the baffle installed, as he has observed in servicing them. I suppose that it is possible that the part was not available for early production, and the factory decided to proceed builds without them. Contact your nearest DMC franchise for availability, should you also be missing one.

At this point, also check your pumps filter screen. at the bottom of the baffle, at the end of the hose. If it looks dirty, a replacement ("improved part") can be ordered through DMC (#101643, $18.95).

SpecialTAuto also has this part (#101643, $18.95) shown below. They also have a custom filter application that bolts immediately under the fuel pump, and eliminates the need for the pickup hose, but I chose to keep the stock functionality with the pickup hose attached to the pump.

The baffle system was reconstructed with the new bottom, and the existing hoses were re-used as they were in good condition. Evaluate your car's hose, you don't want this hose, which it has been known to, kink inside the tank. Also important note: I made the mistake of thinking I could buy regular fuel hose, but that is not recommended as this hose will be submerged in fuel and most parts store fuel hoses are not. Again, if you need ot replace, this is an available DMC part (#106286, $19.69 - not a NOS part).

The reconstructed baffle system is shown below. It does not go in as shown, the circular bottom drain part needs to be off to clear the the tank opening, and is then reattached inside the tank - trickier that it sounds, but very doable.

Fuel Pump re-Assembly

If you wish to replace your fuel pump, you have a surprising amount of choices for our cars. There are two options from two vendors.

DMC will sell you a NOS pump (#11085, $139.):

...or a newer "after market" pump (#11085A, $99)

SpecialTAuto has new Bosch fuel pumps ($134.95)

...and a new higher flowrate pump (#$89.95):

I like the fact that this one comes with those protective boots, for the electrical connections.

An unexpected surprise was how corroded the hard return line was. This is a uniquely bent tube that sticks out of the pump cover, sort of wraps around the pump, and is where the submersible fuel hose that feeds into the baffle cup, attaches to. Being a regular steel tube, mostly suspended under fluid for 28 years, I suppose it makes sense it would not look too fresh. Fortunately DMC (#105020, $24.95) and SpectialTAuto (#$44.95) both sell a stainless replacement, which are excellent “while you’re there” mini-refurbishments (SpecialTAuto's price also include a stainless fuel pump metal collar ring).

A few other things to check, or consider to upgrade in this assembly are the fuel pump boot, the lower part that goes inside the tank (DMC #101391, $54.50), the pump's wiring conector , as well fuel pump's fittings. In my case, I could not remove the fitting from my original pump (remember you'll need two copper crush washers), so I ordered a new one for the new pump. It's probably a good idea anyway leave the original fitting on, so in case an emergency spare is needed, it will already have it's fittings (and washers) pre-installed.

Below is the re-assembled fuel pump assembly, ready to drop back into the gas tank.

Putting it back in is a little tricky the first time and definitely requires some trial and error. The trick is to have it drop in the correct orientation, where:

the return line inside the tank will not kink,
where the fuel pump connectors are close to the mating harness connector,
that the return line does not stick up too much,
and that the supply and return lines are oriented just right so that their matching hoses line up correctly.

You'll figure it out what works best, just takes a little patience.

Fuel Pump Wiring

The last item to look at in this area is the harness connector to the fuel pump. This is a two wire plastic plug that on my car had exposed wiring just going into the crimped connector pins. Additionally the wiring just beyond the connector was brittle. I took the opportunity to correct all this by disconnecting both the fuel pump and fuel send connector, and pulling from underneath the car (easy to do, of course with the spare out). I did this so I could solder at a distance from the gas tank. I soldered a new set of wires directly to the pins, then spliced a good 18-20 inch section into the existing harness.

Conclusion...

The above work was done on spare weekend time, did it solve my engine stalling issues? No.

So this meant that a) as stated earlier all changes done represented good upkeep in this area, b) I know now that I have a good working spare pump (with fitting), and c) I would have to move on to other components. I am publishing above my component research, findings, and fixes, so that you have a reference to consider checking the fuel pump area as a future project, and/or as a preventative measure. This is by no means a comprehensive fuel system update to the car, to take it further it would have also replaced the accumulator (previously done), the external fuel filter, and the injectors (also previously done on 2109).

There were a lot of different parts mentioned here, mostly available from either DMC or SpecialTAuto. These of course can be bought as seperate parts, but check with both vendors as "kits" with many of the parts mentioned are offered by both vendors.

Picture of completed fuel pump job.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.

"Best of" Postings

2009-10-03T13:23:00.009-04:00

Below are some of the most popular postings here, categorized for reference.
Hope you find them useful.

Modernizing or Upgrading the DeLorean’s...
Converting your DeLorean to (nearly) 100% LED illumination.
Digital Clock
RPM Relay
Dome Light Timer (for LEDs & Incandescent)
Spare tire
Rear Suspension
Engine Bay (detailing)
Exhaust & Ignition System
Radio
Engine bay light, with LEDs

DeLorean Maintenance on:
Burping the Cooling System
Sticky power window switch fix
Speedometer Cable

Considering a DeLorean?
Low or High Mile DeLorean
A DeLorean as a daily driver?
Purchasing Tips
History of DeLoreans sold on eBay

DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2009 Q3 Update

2009-09-30T23:08:00.000-04:00

The 2009 Q3 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 35 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
Thanks.

DeLoreans Sold on Ebay: 2009 Q2 Update

2009-06-30T15:45:00.002-04:00

The 2009 Q2 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 32 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
Thanks.

Modernizing the DMC-12's Rear Suspension: Options, Resources, & Overview

2009-04-14T18:26:00.055-04:00

Introduction
I have nearly a complete set of parts and service history for 2109. Being a total geek, I spent a weekend afternoon once putting those in Excel. It was a worthwhile exercise because at a glance I can see what part (and if it) was replaced, and when. I am a strong believer in preventive maintenance (PM), so having quick access to that information assists me towards implementing PM on 2109.

Being a high mileage car (80K, relatively high for a DeLorean) means that it has been enjoyed by by its owners in the sense that it has been driven and not stored. It also means that a lot of components have been changed, updated, or maintained. One of the most obvious components and service work that has not been performed, was on the suspension, she was still riding on 28 year old shocks and related components. I can’t complain, the ride is not bad, a little jolty on the occasional bump, but those old struts (non leaking by the way) must have seen better times. So, suspension work eventually made it to the top of the list of things to do, and I would start with the easiest, the rear.

I decided to attempt to do the rear suspension myself based on the fact that a) after research and speaking with others, that it didn’t seem too complicated, and b) I could save a few bucks from my budget and invest them in parts, rather than on labor. My backup plan as usual, if I get too over my head, I could always flatbed the car to DMC Florida.

Rear Suspension Work
Being on a budget also dictated that I had to buy the parts that I needed over a period of time, and not at once. So in approximately a 6-10 month period, I had all the parts that I needed to begin. Here are some notes, on some of the major components that I chose to use, and why:

Springs:

With respect to the springs’ contributions to overall height, I actually do not mind my car’s stock rear height (picture above). The fronts, aesthetically yes, that needs to be lowered, but not the rear. This then simplified my choices as I would be reusing the existing springs.

Here is how the springs came out of the car:

Here is how they looked after some metal prep and several coats of satin black paint.

It took some work, but it turned out well enough that when another owner saw them, they thought that I had bought new ones.

Notes on springs thatlower the rear end:
Spring options for those that wish to lower their car’s rear height are: 1) use your front springs, in the rear, 2) use DMC’s Eibach’s lowered springs, or 3) cut your rear springs.

These are DMC's Eibach Performance Spring Kit:

If you do decide to lower the rear height, be aware that you must also replace your lower link, with an adjustable version, and have the wheels realigned for proper camber. If you lower your car’s rear stock height and you do not use an adjustable lower link, the camber of your rear tires will be off, and cannot be adjusted, which will result in the inside treads of your rear tires will quickly begin to show excessive wear.
This is what the adjustable rear links look like:

(Picture from midstatedmc.com)

These adjustable links are available directly from:
DMC Midwest
DeLorean Mid-State Club
DMC California
Pricing information varies per site, some require cores, some require your links to be sent in to be modified, Dave at DMC Midwest stocks them ready to ship. Reference individual links above, and contact them, for additional details.

Shocks.
Here we have quite a few choices. I'll list them in no particular order:

DeLoreanUpgradeParts:

SpecialTAuto has two different kinds of shocks.
"Easy Riders" (Front & Rears as a set)

...and the "KYB Performance" shocks (front & rears sold seperately, rears shown below)

DMC sells a full set as part of their Eibach System (and actually NOS Girling ones too). They are sold as fronts and rears together. Shown below is their full Eibach Performance System, but shocks and springs are sold seperately as well. This is a popular configuration and nearly all installation reviews are favorable.

Marty Meier at Delorean Mid-State Club, has a front and rear set (with a lot of positive reviews posted).

Ed at DMC Europe has a unique set as well, part of his "Power Series", the "Power Shocks", which feature adjustable damping settings and polyurethane bushings built in. Both front and rear shown below, but they can be purchased separately.

I have heard of a UK source for some shocks similar to Ed's, from the UK, and the shocks are brand: "Spax". If someone can email me public link, I would be glad to post pictures of them here, along with a reference link.

EDIT (05/11/09): I found the link, am fairly certain it is their "KSX" shock (picture from link below), but you'll have to call them for more details.

EDIT (05/17/09):
Chris Williams, the Secretary DeLorean Owners Club UK, has provided the further information and some detailed pictures of the SPAX shocks. He wrote:

"The well known company for performance shocks (SPAX) have agreed to start manufacturing shock absorbers (dampers) for our cars. They are gas adjustable front and rear, with the rears being adjustable for the spring height on a S/Steel threaded outer tube. Fully Gas adjustable, with 28 settings on the adjusting knob. Spring height is also adjustable as you can see from the pictures.
Prices will be about, £74.99 each for the fronts and £99.99 each for the rear. There is 25% discount on these prices for DOC club members."
Rear SPAX in comparison to OEM. Take note of Stainless collar threads, AND a protective sleeve over the piston rod, two unique features of this shock absorber:

Close up of the bottom of the rear shocks, with the knob for the adjustable dampening settings:

I have to say that on features alone, this does appear to be a very interesting alternative, for replacing the rear shocks.
Edit: (05/26/09)
For more information on these, Chris says to contact Spax directly at: http://www.spax-suspension.co.uk/contact_us.php
If you tell them you are a DOC (DeLorean Owners Club) member, you get a 25% discount. . . . Chris says that Spax does not call him to verify membership. ; )

Edit: (02/22/10)
These shocks are now available domestically, exclusively through
SpecialTAuto.

Overview of which to get...
Which one to go with is honestly a leap of faith, and balanced by what are your driving expectations, and of course funding availability. Some are touted as “performance shocks” which give a stiffer ride, but hold tighter on aggressive turns and driving. Others are “touring shocks” which would mean a softer, cushier ride, which is not for everyone.

I drove a fellow D owner’s car with SpecialTAuto’s “Easy Riders” and I liked them, it was a soft ride on a less than great parking lot, and on a smooth open road at 50mph. I have heard others complain they are too soft, and in response John has released a stiffer 2nd option as shown above.

If you search you’ll find all sorts of opinions on installed solutions, but what is missing and we’ll probably never see, is a side by side comparison of multiple solutions, on the same vehicle. So really the best that could happen then to assist you on your choice, is to be able to have the opportunity to ride in as many cars as possible with the different shock and spring options, for you to evaluate personally, to make the best choice for your liking and needs.

For 2109...

I went with Ed’s Powershocks. They were not the cheapest, and the US to Euro exchange as well as shipping adds to the expense, but I decided on these because there had been some positive reviews on them, and the unique features that they have. They have a dial knob near the bottom, where you can dial the shocks to be set for either a soft or hard or anything in between. Chances are once you find your right setting you’ll never need to adjust it again, but who knows?
There are also two other feature which I liked about these shocks. One is that they have threaded collars, which seemed (and turned out to be) a very desirable feature to have to install and adjust them (height). The second is that the shocks themselves come with polyurethane bushings all around, as standard, which tends to balance the value of this option.

General Notes
That’s about all you need for to replace your rear suspension system. I won’t cover the installation details, as there are several sources that do so well enough, like a fellow owner’s “How To” on DMCtalk.com. I based my installation on that write up, and for the most part the suspension installation went well. The job can get more challenging if you encounter"frozen" bolts and nuts. Fortunately I only had to deal with one stubborn frozen nut at the top of one of the shocks, but a nut cutter easily removed that obstacle. The other thing to check is the bushings on the links, if they are dry, rotted, or compressed, you may wish to consider replacing them, or even upgrading them with polyurethane versions (currently available at DMC-Europe, and in development at SpecialTAuto domestically). Finally, the threaded collar on the shocks, mentioned above, did in fact make the installation easier, especially with this tool (found on Ebay).

Suspending the car on stands, and rotating the collar with this tool is a quick easy way to adjust the height of each shock..

In conclusion...
I have logged over 500 miles with my new rear suspension. Truth be told I believe the resulting effects are minor. I believe this to be the case because the full effect will not be reaped until both the front and rear suspension is upgraded. Still the rear suspension is now refurbished from the original factory components. The only issue that I have had has been a "squeek" sound from the shocks, but Ed advised me, and it has happened, that this goes away over time.

Epilogue
I could have left it at that, but instead I followed the “once you are there” philosophy, so I actually did some other rear suspension related work, mostly captured this (near) complete picture of the driver's side (LH) suspension:

What you can see, and what you cannot, that was done as part of the rear suspension work was:
* Removed all the links to evaluate the bushings and to paint them.
* Cleaned and painted the old springs.
* Cleaned the parking brakes, and changed pads.
* Replaced the worn parking brake cables.
* Changed the rear flex brake lines with stainless versions.
* Cleaned the exposed frame parts.
* Cleaned off some road grime from the transmission.
* Cleaned off the wheels
* Removed, cleaned off, inner drive shafts
* Replaced, outer drive shaft, bearings, and hubs.
* Re-torqued all bushing related parts, and the trailing tab pivot bolts.
* Cleaned off the interior of the wheels wells (not shown in picture).

Here is before and after shot of some of the visible parts and clean up work:

While most of those are details for another day, I would like to highlight a specific one mentioned above: "Replaced, outer drive shaft, bearings, and hubs."

Hub, bearing, and outer drive shaft
A secondary goal of this job was to repalce the rear bearings. I had the infamous "clunk" from the rear suspension when I got the car. It mysteriously went away one day and was replaced with a cyclic and surprisingly loud "squeek, squeek, squeek" on a turn. I figured it was the rear wheel bearings, that their time was up.

The wheel bearing is sandwhiched (machine pressed) between the outer hub and the carrier. To get it out requires a trip to the machines shop, to press it out, and to press it back in. Since I had to remove this assembly anyway, I figured I would clean it up and repaint it, but then it would mean two seperate trips to the machine shop, to take care of this. Also, the assembly is ulitimatly held together with a large 32mm nut, which needs to be tourqed to just over 260 ft-lbs.

I knew that I could tackle this, part by part, with some trips to a machine shop, and some brute strength, but I got an ideas to contact Josh B., at McFly MotorSports in Ohio. Although Josh's shop is relatively new to the DeLorean repair and restoration businesses, he is quickly gaining a great reputation for the service and quality work that he has put out, and some exciting engine performance upgrades that he has in the works (more info at this site).

Case in point, after contacting him, he sent me this picture of a recently restored hub/carrier assembly that he had worked on:

In this picture not only can you see the quality of the work on the hub/carrier and related suspension components, but you can also see the quality of the restoration work of the frame that it is mounted on.

So, I engaged him to re-do my hubs, bearings, and outer shaft. Doing so all I did was to remove all three (carrier hub, bearing, outer drive shaft) as an assembly. This is what I sent:

...and this is what he sent back:

Given enough time, and having access to a media blaster, as well as two visits to a machine shop, some paint prep and paint time, I may have been able to achieve this quality of work by myself. However for what he charged, and how quickly he did it, it just made a lot of sense to have him perform this component restoration.

Contact him for more information:
Josh B.
McFly MotorSports
330.573.4129

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<

DeLoreans Sold on eBay - 2009 Q1 Update

2009-04-11T12:00:00.006-04:00

The 2009 Q1 Update of DeLorean DMC-12 sales on eBay is updated.

The data of DMC-12s sold for the last 29 months, is summarized in a graph and table format.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
Thanks.

Sneak Preview: Dome Light Module - A Modern Replacement and Upgrade

2009-03-30T20:09:00.027-04:00

(Edit 04/13/09: Added installation picture of 2nd prototype, and link to a draft version of the installation & programming manual, at bottom of this posting.)

Following this blog's theme of modern upgrades for the DeLorean DMC-12, I am pleased to announce that I and another DeLorean owner have been Beta testing a really neat device for our cars, a multi-mode replacement for the original Dome Light Module.

Solid State, Mode Programmable, Dome Light Relay.

The device is engineered by Dave McKeen (aka Bitsyncmaster on the forums), who previously re-engineered and currently sells a modernized solid state replacement for our RPM relays (reviewed here: "RPM Relay, A Modern Update". I have been using a breadboard version this new module, throughout our Florida Winter months, and have been offering Dave feedback and suggestions on functionality. For the most part it works great, and it is really neat (and cool) to have the light dimming functionality back into our interiors, when you utilize energy (battery) saving LEDs in the interior.

The original module was basically a timer circuit, to dim the interior console lights, but as it was designed over 25 years ago, it does not work with modern LEDs. The fix to this date has been to just remove the module (the white one in the fuse relay area), and the LEDs ran fine but in an on, or off, state.

(BTW: Picture above is the result of my fuse/relay area clean up project, from a few months back.)

In Dave’s re-engineered unit, the timed dimming functionality is back, along with a few other nifty modes.

Mode 1: OEM operation.

In this mode, the module behaves as a direct replacement module, where after 15 seconds of the doors being closed, the lights dim until they are off. With this module however, this feature works if you run either incandescent, or LEDs. (For a good reason to run LEDs, see here: "LEDs are Cool" ) Dimming and LEDs, are a near oxymoron, unlike an incandescent bulb that can be made to increase and decrease its light output with voltage changes, LEDs are either on or off at one voltage.

So How does Dave make them dim?
Techie answer: he seamlessly pulsates them until they dim off.
To the casual observer answer: Freakin’ magic.

Mode 2: OEM operation plus a 10-minute shutoff.

This mode is as above, but also automatically shuts off all interior (including door, bonnet, and engine bay) lights after 10 minutes. Although this is less of an issue with LEDs, it is a great feature if you are still running incandescent bulbs, in order to avoid excessive battery drain. With this module in this mode, I’ve driven to car shows, or have left the car open in the garage, and sure enough it becomes one less thing to think about when your interior lights are shut off automatically.

Mode 3: Parade Mode

This is a new and entertaining feature, this is basically Mode 1 but instead of the lights staying on, they blink on and off. If you shut off the interior lights, then the effect is solely focused on the doors. This would be neat to run, say in a night time car show, especially with multiple cars, or as the cars drive by a parade, with the blinking door lights – talk about giving our doors even more of an airplane like wing look.

Mode changes

In order to change modes, you don’t have to go unburying the fuse/relay area. Instead you can program the module with the light switch from the glove box. As you program it, by pressing the light switch in a certain sequence, the unit provides feedback as to the new program through, interior light pulses.

Beta Version 2 (Pre-Production unit).

Right before I began to perform a DIY rear suspension upgrade on 2109, Dave shipped out the latest revision to the module (see picture below). Gone is the breadboard test unit, the latest version is dimensionally now closer to the production unit, where it would look like a plug in replacement, with some minimal wiring to ensure full and future support of features. The workmanship is impressive on the scale that it has been done, with tiny surface mount components mixed along with some small chips, soldered on two stacked circuit boards - but you won't be able to see this on the production boards as it will be a solid, potted, unit. As Beta testers, we are now switching our review and feedback to this new unit, so it may be a few more weeks until the module is ready for sales and general distribution.

...in conclusion

Like Dave’s previous product, the solid state RPM Relay, this new module is a modern upgrade for aging, unreliable, and outdated electronic components in our cars. Dave has demonstrated to our small community that his products are reliable re-engineered components, and that he stands behind his product. This one is as clever and useful as his last, but this one is also just downright cool to see in action, as your interior LEDs dim.

I will post a small video later, stop by again to check them out. Thanks

To contact Dave about his upcoming Dome Light Module:
david.mckeen@verizon.net
or

PM “Bitsyncmaster” on DMCTalk.com

-----------------------------------------------------------------
Addendum 04/13/09:

The 2nd prototype has been installed and is working great. With some additional wiring at the time of installation, it brings some new neat functionality. Below is a picture of the unit installed:

(Click on picture for a larger view.)

As previouly discussed, the shipping version will be potted units, so it will look even better installed than the picture above.

Also, we've completed a first draft of the features, installation, and programming document. You can find it at DMCTalk, with this link: Link to PDF File

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

Detailing the Engine Bay, Over Time

2009-01-31T23:06:00.035-05:00

Addendum August 2010: Appended pictures of new engine bay harness, routing details.

Part of the maintenance and upkeep that I perform on this car, has to do with the engine and engine bay look. In this month’s entry, I will outline what I (and others) have done to detail and keep this part of our cars, looking as good as possible, providing some added benefits as well.

Our car came from the previous owner with a well maintained and nicely looking engine and engine bay. However, I noted some room for improvement that I figured I would address over time, and have in fact proceeded to do so over the last two years. My goal was to not deter too much from the stock look, just to refresh it.

My baseline and current progress
This is how the engine bay looked like two years ago, not a bad baseline:

This is how it looks like today:

In some cases the changes are subtle, out of view, and not as apparent as when seen in person, as opposed to in pictures.

The following are discussions of specific areas and/or parts that have been detailed in the engine bay area on this car.

Air inlet pipe
One thing not stock on either of the pictures above is the absence of the air inlet hose which runs between the coolant bottle and the air filter housing. On 2109 this was replaced a while ago, and if not I would have done it myself for cosmetic and performance reasons. Both DMC and SpecialTAuto.com sell this, each respectively name it "performance intake" or "performance cold air input" hose. These kits replace the stock soft plumbing, along with the a manifold valve and feed. The removed parts existed to warm the intake air, upon start up, specifically for colder climate conditions. Since this is a car used year round in the Southeast, and most DeLoreans don’t run in the Winter, this is an area for improvement. There may also be advantages to removing the stock assembly, because the original valve assembly tended to restrict a portion of the air flow into the engine.

Cost: Approximately $30 from vendors, or there is something similar available at local parts store, but if you can, support our vendors – our cars need them to be around. This is a simple DIY project.

Coolant Bottle
If you are still running with the original plastic coolant reservoir bottle – change it. Not to improve the look of your engine bay, but as a good preventive measure. Those original bottles were prone to bursting with cooling system issues, the modern bottles are made of stainless steel, and look great in the engine bay.

Cost: Approximately $140. from both DMC and SpecialTAuto.com (but the latter includes the mounting brackets).

The “valley of death”(VOD) job.
A VOD job on our cars is a must do if you are not sure how long it as been since something similar was done. Essentially this is a clean up and preventive measure, for the top of the engine block. That area is not normally visible as it is directly covered by our intake system, but underneath there, our block has some deep cavities, that over time collect grime, leaves, twigs, miscellaneous parts that fall in, and in some cases even dead rodents(!). This same area, specifically the cavities, have been known to get eaten away with years of corrosion, and sometimes creating, or contributing to create, block damaging cracks and holes – thus the “valley of death” moniker.

The job is not that difficult if you are handy and comfortable with working on cars, but best left to qualified DeLorean vendors otherwise. There are great documentation topics of VOD jobs on DMCTalk.com, so I won’t attempt to cover it here, but I did perform this project on 2109, during July 2008 (and with online assistance and support from other owners, enthusiasts, and vendors). I summarized the entire experience in a short youtube video as follows:

As you can see from the video, this project is an opportunity to clean up the area, coat it with a protective paint, and even replace some potentially future trouble parts in that area (sensor, water pump, thermostat, internal hoses and their clamps). Some specific detailing performed were:

Under the intake, the top of the block.
The picture below shows this area cleaned (Simple Green, soft wire brush, dry off, repeat many times) now painted (POR-15), along with several replaced components.

Performing this job is also an excellent opportunity to clean up some parts that need to be moved out of the way, while this job is underway.

Rewired main harness – notice that in the pictures above there in an unobstructed view into the air mixture screws, above the intake W-pipe, or intake horns. This is because the main harness was re-routed to go under the passenger side of the intake. In a stock DeLorean the harness comes across and above the top of the driver’s side of the intake.

Cost: This modified harness (Part #:110185) is available from DMC for just under $200., but other owners have taken their original one apart and reorganized it, to accomplish the same effect.

Clean and paint components
The picture above also shows several brackets that were painted, they were originally black with grime and dirt. The intake manifold is a chrome plated Ebay find, that sat on my shelf for over a year awaiting this project. A good sandblasting and painting of your existing one, will most likely yield a major improvement to this prominent part on your engine bay.

The picture below shows a before and after of 2109's air mixture unit, cleaned as discussed above, and painted with Duplicolor Gold and Aluminum colors.

…and before and afters of the throttle assembly:

Cost: I suppose if you have this done, this could easily run well over $1000. in labor alone. As a DIY project, it cost me about $480 in parts and 75 hours (by myself, with some minor complications (seen in video), and I don’t work fast as I took plenty of breaks, and took lots of pictures, done on weeknights and weekends over a 6 week period. Others have done the basic work in much, much less time.

Valve Covers
They are very prominent in the engine bay, so these are on the top of a list for cosmetic improvements. The driver’s side is the most tricky to take out, because you have to temporarily relocate the bulky compressor with its lines attached, but overall this is just an unbolt, paint, bolt back on procedure. The picture below shows the passenger side cover after it was painted and reinstalled, unfortunately the air intake covers a large portion of this one.

Cost: I can only comment on a DIY solution and it was less than $20 for one can of spray paint, and some replaced bolts.

Ignition Resistors
Because of their location and its color, a cleaned up ignition resistor adds a nice tidy detail to the overall look of the engine bay.

Cost: Your time to scrub away, I used Simple Clean and a soft-ish wire brush to work off the grime.

Vinyl Caps
This is a relatively simple one, the AutoParts store sell a pack of PVC caps for about $5.00. These caps can be used on your door plungers, and also to cover up those two bolts on the left side of the bay (pictured below) and even the ground lug on the opposite side.

A/C Compressor
Another prominent part in your engine bay, is the A/C compressor. This is a tricky component to clean up or exchange, because it entails extracting and recoveing all the Freon, before you can disconnect the compressor. As I am doing, unless there is some major A/C service to be done I will leave mine as is - but this is definately another prominent part of your engine bay so it is definately an area to clean up.

A/C Idler Bracket and Pulleys
This one you can argue is both a cosmetic and an upkeep item. If you are running the original pulleys and bracket, chances are they can use a good clean up and your bearing may not be at their best. Replacing the bearings on the pulleys also yields a slightly quieter running engine.

Cost: You can do all this work yourself, but SpecialTAuto.com can send you the bracket and pulley as shown above, for about $50 plus shipping and a $100 core charge, which is refundable when you send him back your old bracket/pulleys. SpecialAuto's pulleys with new bearings, are definately not as noisy as my original 27 year old pulleys.

Engine Bay Light
Here's a quick project, how about replacing that old yellowed engine bay light? The merits of that light are debatable; however, since it's there may as well update it with a newer one.

Below is a before and after shot:

It's a subtle change, but it does overall contribute to a clean up.

Since I was going to replace this light, I decided to also incorporate a simple mod. I often find myself wanting to be able to turn off this light (daytime, engine lid up), and to do so, I'd have to unplug it at the switch (by the lid hinge) and remember to re-plug it. A better solution would be for the light to have a switch. The picture below shows a comparison of the orignal and the new housing with the light switch mod (also note comparative condition of conductive internal brackets).

Cost: New old stock lights are available from DMC (or your local DMC Dealer) as part number 100439, the current price is about $27.

Painting the Engine Bay
This is best done with the engine out of the bay, however, very impressive results have been achieved by a local Florida owner without removing the engine.
He documented the experience and results here: Deloreanreborn.com

Customization
Although not in my sights nor current plans, there are custom components available that can be integrated into your engine bay, for that different look. A short list of those are:
Stainless air cleaner unit (SpectialTAuto.com)
Braided stainless fuel lines (SpectialTAuto.com, and DMC-CA)
Different color vacuum lines (cut to size as a kit, at SpectialTAuto.com)
Nology kit, with beefier spark plug wires (DMC)
Custom stainless throttle cover (www.robomerchant.net/DeloreanCarShow)

Conclusion...
So that’s it, as you can see with time, and a little elbow grease every now and then, you can make some visual improvements to your car’s engine bay. Many of these improvments are also good preventive measures, which will contribute to provide you with many more enjoyable DeLorean miles ahead.

Addendum 08/12/2010
There are often questions, and I had a bunch, of how to route the new engine bay harness. Below you will find 4 pictures, the first my questions about routing prior to installing the new harness. The next three pictures, address most of the questions of the first picture, as they are pictures after the harness was installed. (You can click on the pictures for a larger view.)

Questions, questions, questions, I had....

How it turned out/answers...

------ If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.------

DeLoreans Sold on eBay - 2008 Q4 Update

2008-12-31T13:41:00.004-05:00

The Q4 Update of DeLorean sales on eBay is updated.

This is from data for the last 26 months as of December 2008, and it shows the resulting trends.

For the direct link click here.

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.
Thanks.

LEDs are cool.

2008-11-30T19:55:00.015-05:00

Intro
I’ve been working on my engine bay as funding and time allows. One of the first updates that I did in this area was to modernize the engine bay's light, to an LED. You all know by now the advantages of LEDs (lower current drain, less heat), but I thought it would be interesting to document here the actual temperature differences.

Details
For these tests, I popped the lens/cover out form the housing, and began readings with the current LED that I am running. First I took an ambient temperature reading. (The instrumentation used is an EXTECH multimeter, with an IR Temperature sensor.) The first picture below shows an 81F (27C) ambient temperature.

Energize! This next picture is the temperature reading on the same spot, of the LED light, as you can see there is no measurable temperature rise. Perhaps over time it may go up a degree or so, but it never feels much if any, warmer than ambient.

Next up is our old friend the incandescent bulb. The temperature began to rise quickly, I snapped this first picture at 231F (111C)…

...and I stopped after this picture, at 278F (137C):

After a brief cool down, the bulb was literally too hot to handle.

...which is about where it stabilizes at, which is nearly 200F (110C) above ambient with the lens cover off! Imagine opening the engine bay and activating this light, on a warmer day, and with a warmed up engine bay, and it is understandable how those added degrees could contribute to a 27 year old plastic housing meltdown. : (

Summary:
So, as shown, it’s no surprise that every now and then we see or hear of a melted engine bay light housing. It's one of those "factory quirks" our cars have. Oh, and by the way, the internal cabin dome lights (above rear view mirror, and on rear shelf) are made to have the same incandscent bulb, housed in ...another plastic housing.

References
So this is a simple fix, go to your favorite vendor and order an LED replacement light kit.
DMCH (or your local DMC facility) have them for $1.99 each (#SP11305).

The one that I have pictured is not a DMCH product, it is from www.superbrightleds.com. Specifically, these are their Festoon bulbs (4210-WHP6)

Picture from: www.superbrightleds.com/specs/festoonhp.htm

They're relatively expensive at $15 per bulb, but what is neat about these is that not only are they bright, consume less power, run cooler, but they also carry them in a “warm white” option. This is different from the typical LEDs that have a blue-ish hue to them. The “warm white” options tries to duplicate the warm, light yellowish, color of an incandescent bulb – and it’s pretty close (I used their equivalent “warm whites” on my dash, and I really liked how that turned out). This color option is closer to the look of an 80's car, where as the typical blue-ish LEDs seem (to me), not in line with the car's vintage.

It’s tough to capture in pictures, but the first picture above is the best shot, in the dark, in an attempt to capture both the illumination and color of this bulb. Had I used the “cool white” you would have seen a bluish tint on the picture.

Unlike the incandescent version, these are directional, that is they only illuminate on one side, and per their spec, on a 120 degree light arc. I haven't found this to be a problem, and again you can reference the picture above to see the result.

Oh ... and if you do order them through SuperbrightLEDS.com, don't use this bulb on the interior, it is much too bright for that application.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

Modernizing Your Spare Tire, Minimizing a Flat Tire's Hassle and Cost.

2008-10-30T22:55:00.051-04:00

Prologue
Every time we start up our cars for a drive, no one plans for a flat tire – but I am sure that it has happened to us at least once, and if it hasn’t then it’s only a question of when, it will happen. For DeLorean owners, if you have your original donut style spare, you are relying on 27 year old rubber, assuming that it can even sustain pressure. There are written accounts on forums about owners changing a flat to the spare and rolling for a few feet, before the spare disintegrates. This article is an attempt to offer an option, to prevent such an occurrence.

DeLorean, original, 27 year old wheel and tire.

The Spare Tire Issue
As with nearly all DeLorean issues, this is not new and some owners have actually taken several approaches such as eliminating, not carrying, the spare all together and ride with either Slime Sealant and a 12v compressor, AAA coverage, or just with a cell phone and credit card to call for a tow.

Current Solutions: Green Slime Sealant

Sure, Slime Sealant is a temporary solution, but it may not always work depending on the severity of the flat, rim damage, and/or how far you need to go to address the issue. (Also, if you "slimed-it" let your tire repair person know, 'cause it's going to be a messy cleanup.)

Current Solutions: Call for a non-AAA tow

Now, I don’t know about you, but I would rather change a flat with an available spare and keep moving, rather than wait in the middle of nowhere, and then pay for a tow to take the car and I home. A few times a year I do a 500 mile round trip to visit my son in college and meet up with the Central Florida DCF guys in my D, that trip is often through wide open and nearly remote areas. Should I get a flat on those trips, I’d rather address it, and move on, as I would do with my daily driver.

Current Solutions: AAA

AAA coverage is generally a good deal, but there are limitations to the amount of miles they will tow, and how many tows reimbursed per year.

Again, all the above are certainly viable solutions, but they may not work in all cases nor for everyone. So...

A Modern Replacement
So this was my goal: To modernize the DeLorean’s spare tire so that it would become a viable solution for both local and distance travel.

My search and personal preferences led me to updating the spare tire, with more modern rubber, as well as being a solution that would still fit in the wheel well (diameter and width), and since I retained the original wheel, it eliminated the guess work in which wheel would fit, and it even sort of still looks stock.

Our Donut Spare
There is no mystery about donut spare tires. Similar to our daily radial tires, they are tubeless rubber tires on metal wheels, and regulated by DOT (Department of Transportation) standards just like normal road tires. The big differences between it and your regular tires are in as follows.
Size: as they are made more compact for storage
Speed limitations: are not meant to be run at high speeds,
Mileage limitations: are not meant to be driven for any extended amount miles, just enough to get you a tire repair service station or home.
So, knowing that it should be a simple replacement.

DOT Nomenclature
First some important nomenclature on tires: DOT has specific marking regulations for tire manufacturers, to designate important information beyond size and fit suitably, notably the tires contain information on their manufacturing history. In order to update our spares, we need to be aware of these two markings, size and date of manufacture.

Size Codes
Our spares are sized for T125/70D15, which as most of you know this is the standard description for modern tires. Breaking it down:
"T" denotes a spare tire
"125" is the widest sidewall width (or 125mm)
"70" is the profile ratio of the sidewall's height, to the width (70 denotes 70% of the 125mm width, or 87.5mm)
"D" denotes a diagonal bias tire
"15" represents the wheel mounting diameter (15 inches)
Yes, this is an odd mix of metric with English units, but it is the standard.

Date Codes
This information is just as important as above because there would be no sense in replacing your old tire with something just as old. I have read that the general rule is to replace ties beyond 8 years old; however, I don’t think many people (or dealers reselling used cars) are doing that with spares, and I suspect that as long as the tread is good and that they hold air, they may have a slightly longer life. Rubber over time deteriorates as it looses its deformation properties and can harden; however for this to happen, there are also factors of environment, exposure, and usage that play into the longevity.

So, the goal is to replace your 27 year old tire with something newer. To do so, the key is to look at the stamped DOT codes to guide your replacement selection. After 2000, all tires have a two digit number to signify the date of manufacture. Easy enough, however, prior to 2000 only one digit was used, to denote the year of the decade. So a 1997 and 1987 tire would each end in an ambiguous 7. The recommendation then is to look for a 21st century tire, it will be easier to select and assure you a newer tire. The two digits before the year code, represent the week of manufacture.

For example, the picture below shows the code from my original spare, note it ends in “171”. This is a tire manufactured on the 17th week, of 1981. Visually the wheel does look in good condition, other than it could not hold pressure for over a few weeks – again, the hardening of the rubber may have accounted for that.

Where do find a newer tire?
Oddly enough I didn’t really find anyone selling spare wheels directly to consumers, and that is fine as I suspect the price would have been high, so alternative resources at your disposal are junkyards, ebay, or craigslist. Tip for looking on ebay or craigslist is to search for: T125/70D15. You will find that this is a very common size in spare tires, used on many, many vehicles so availability is actually quite good. Just make sure that you get a wheel manufactured after 2000, ask the seller for confirmation as most likely this information is rarely published.
Picture below is the spare that I found, note "0504" designator to denote a 2004 year of manufacture, and n the 5th week of the year.

Chances are also very high that you will find this tire, with it’s own unique wheel, so let’s address that next.

The Wheel
As the DeLorean's spare tire is a still commonly used size, you will find that it is mounted on a variety of wheels, and wheel patterns, depending on their host visibility. The picture below is from the spare wheel/tire that I found - from a 2001-2004 Kia Rio.

Later model Honda Civics in particular also use a 4 bolt wheel on the same tire size that our Ds use; however, it is unlikely, as in above, that that the wheel can be used due to different offsets and brake caliper configurations. Each host wheel seems unique for their specific application.

So, the recommendation is that if you find an appropriate sized good looking spare tire (some are never used), regardless of the wheel, get it and change it out with your existing DeLorean spare wheel. Any local mechanic can do that for you for a few bucks.
(I'll post a picture later of my new spare tire, on the original DeLorean wheel.)

Cost
You will find that newer spares (from 2000+) are not as readily available as 1990s spares, so keep looking around. I generally saw prices anywhere from $10-$50, but factor shipping for online transactions.

If you are curious, below is a premade search link, that displays a search for T125/70D15 spares on ebay:
Click Here for eBay Search Results.

Summary
So that’s it, once you find your tire, remounted on your existing wheel, you are ready to mount it back in the original location and drive knowing that you are ready to address a spare tire change should it be needed, and it was done for much less than the price of a tow. For you owners about to, or that have begun to, hibernate your cars for the Winter, this could be the right time for this simple project.

Epilogue.
...or are you really ready to handle a flat, even with your new updated spare?

How would you change a flat, with your OEM jack?
Have you checked it recently?
If your on the road, and change your flat where do you put the flat as the fronts fit in spare wheel well, but the rears won't? (Tip: Best option for the rear tires is the rear luggage carrier if you have it, otherwise the passenger seat works if you don't have a passenger, otherwise tie it down temporarily to the engine mount cover.)
Seriously, if you haven’t tried it, perhaps while in your car is safe and snug in your garage or driveway, you should simulate a flat tire change on your own D.

I did that once and discovered that the my jack was flimsy, the ratchet tool for lifting the jack stripped out on use, and I didn't even have a 17mm wrench to remove my aftermarket front strut bar to access my spare! That quick exercise was an eye opener and has since been corrected by carrying the appropriate tools for the job on every drive. You should try the same, especially if you are going to modernize your spare.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

DeLoreans Sold on eBay - 2008 Q3 Update

2008-10-01T22:45:00.003-04:00

Last March's I posted a comparative summary of DeLoreans sold on eBay from October of 2006, through that time period. Today I updated the original posting, to include data through the end of the 3rd Quarter of 2008 (which is today, as of this writing).

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.

For direct link click here.

2109 is in a Car of the 80's Contest

2008-09-06T20:40:00.005-04:00

Hello.

In between some Tech discussions here, I'd like to make a request.
Our car is currently in an online Car Show contest, sponsored by Texaco. The contest consists of choosing a car of the decade for the last 11 decades, and 2109 here is in the running for the 1980's Car of the Decade.

If have a quick moment: [EDIT: Contest is over. Thanks.]
[EDIT: Here is link to 2109's entry: http://texacocarofthedecades.com/bestinclasscars2008/CarDetails.aspx?CarDetailID=111&Preview=False&Decade=1980 ]

You do have to register at the site to vote, once you are registered, go to the "1980" header at the top, find 2109, and vote.

I don't intend to win the grand prize, but I would like to win the decade category of which I would donate the gas card money to my Dad.

Thank for your support and time.

Burping your new DeLorean baby.

2008-08-17T00:59:00.043-04:00

Update 08/23/08: Added a missed detail from vendor products, added a final optional radiator bleed step, some pet friendly notes, and an addendum of rerouting the coolant vent hose.

Intro.
If you’ve ever had to, or wish to, replace your coolant then you need to know how to complete the job, by “burping”, or eliminating any air that has been introduced into the cooling system.

Background.
The purpose of the cooling system in a car is to move an effective amount of heat away from the engine, through a heat transfer process involving the circulation of a cooling media (“anti-freeze”, aka “coolant”) from the engine, to a cooling source (radiator with fans, or higher speed outside air blowing on it).

The system is generally passive, requiring only occasional preventive maintenance such as: checking periodically the fluid levels (when car is off and cool), and checking periodically for coolant leaks (through tell tale green or orange drops under the car).

If you have ever encountered a moderate, controllable overheating issue (for example an alternator belt snap – which also powers the water pump that moves the coolant in the system), or if you are just flushing your coolant system, the next step is to remove the trapped air from the system. Note: A severe overheating problem introduces the potential for more serious mechanical ailments, such as blown head gaskets – I don’t cover that here, and you should never, ever, allow your D (or any other car) to seriously overheat. Trapped air in the cooling system will seriously disable the thermal efficiency and in some cases, the function, of the cooling system so it is vital to eliminate it from the circulatory system.

A well maintained cooling system is essential to keep your car in top mechanical condition, and unlike conventional cars, our cars have a long coolant path since the engine is in the back and the radiator is in the front.

Procedure
Once you’ve remedied the issue that led to overheating and/or you have replenished the coolant (btw: coolant is recommended to be replaced every 2-3 years), the next step is to “burp” the system. There are two main locations in the DeLorean, to facilitate the release of trapped air from the cooling system. The first is located on the top cover of the water pump, where you will see a brass fitting poking out of the somewhat domed shaped cover, under the bracket for the throttle spool. The second location is upfront, at the radiator’s passenger side.

Burping your cooling system, OEM style:
If you have an OEM, non modified cooling system, it will take you longer to burp your system, and it will be messier, than with post production modifications, but it will be just as effective. The procedure is as follows:
a) After the fluid is replenished where the level is about an inch or two from the cooling bottle’s neck, start the car and watch the flow. Doing this actually bleeds some air, but this only works for a short time, until before the system actually begins to pull heat out of the engine. Be prepared to add a little more coolant if the level goes down too much (near the bottle’s internal hose opening. When the fluid level appears to be stable (within a few minutes), cap off the bottle.
b) With the engine still running, rotate the wheels to the extreme right, verify the parking brake is on, and then go to the front passenger side wheel (optional: with a small bucket to attempt to collect the soon to be flowing coolant). You should now have visibility and access to the radiator. Note: Goggles strongly recommended at this step. Loosen the clamp from the smaller hose at the top and GENTLY pull/work the hose out. Note: If your car is stock it has a plastic radiator and the fittings at this point you are working on, can easily snap – and ruin an otherwise good day and simple procedure (consider an update to a metal radiator in the future). Here is the messy part, at some point after removing the hose, or immediately, you will get a flow of coolant mixed with air coming out of this hose. As soon as you see only coolant flowing out, quickly (but GENTLY on those plastic radiators) reinsert the (gushing) hose back on the fitting (goggles come in useful here), and retighten the clamp. Congrats, you’ve bled the radiator …but no time to celebrate yet, move to next step.
c) Now, go to the engine bay, and locate that brass fitting above top of the water pump. At the fitting stick a clear vinyl hose routed to a small bucket, to prevent a second coolant shower, this time into your engine bay. Now turn the fitting CCW until you get a flow, and retighten it when as above, only fluid is visible through the hose.
d) Turn off the car and come back after it has cooled off. It is a good time now to change that shirt and get that sticky smelly coolant off your arm.
e) After the car has cooled, open the coolant bottle and check the level, top it off to about an inch above the internal hose inlet. Close it up, and start up the car.
f) Let the car warm up, if all went well, congratulations, the cooling system is void of any trapped air, and as effective as possible.
Optional:
g) If a test drive after step f still produces high temp, then park the car let it cool off. Repeat step b, but DO NOT start the car, just set it up first. Start the car, put hose back into the radiator after you get a steady stream of coolant. Turn off car, change shirt again, enjoy your ride.

Burping your cooling system, an easier alternative:
In the new Millennium, the procedure above can be performed faster and with almost no messy coolant spills. This entails installing two simple, inexpensive, easy to install modifications to your coolant system. ...actually both these devices have been around (and proven) for quite a few years. They are:

1. A cooling system auto bleeder.
Back in the 90's DPNW's Toby Peterson came up with (the first of quite a few) novel solutions for our cars. Specifically for this application, he experimented and created a method to always have the pump bleed off air, safely, effectively, and automatically. How? Remember the fitting on the top of the water pump? Well the water pump fitting is connected to a hose that runs to a T-splice, into the coolant bottle, and the fitting is left in an open position. This results in that any air in the system automatically gets removed, and vented away, always. No mess, no fuss.

This is available from two vendors that I am aware of:
DeLorean Parts NorthWest's (DPNW)
Wings-B-Cool™ Cooling System Self-Bleeder Kit
(Includes both auto bleeder and radiator bleeder discussed below - each with a shutoff valve)

Special T Automotive's
Air Bleeder Cooling Lines
(This is what came on my car, and in pictures shown here.)

This is what it looks like installed on the water pump side (black hose, attached directly to fitting):

...and this is the other end of the hose, on th eT-splice (on the left in picture):

2. A radiator bleeder
Remember the pulling, the gushing, the reinsertion of a gushing, small coolant hose in the radiator? Well friends say goodbye to that with this nifty device:

DPNW's
Wings-B-Cool™ Radiator Bleeder Kit

This essentially consists of spliced in valve on the smaller (top) coolant hose on the radiator. See picture below:

Now to bleed the system, you just attach a hose to the new fitting (which is provided in the kit), the other end to your trusty little bucket/container, and open the valve to check for air, close it when done, a 1 minute operation, with no spillage.

The burping procedure using these little mods
a) After the fluid is replenished where the level is about an inch or two from the cooling bottle’s neck, start the car and watch the flow. Be prepared to add a little more coolant if the level goes down too much (near the bottle’s internal hose opening. When the fluid level appears to be stable, close up the bottle.
b) With the car still running, rotate the wheels to the extreme right, verify the parking brake is on, and then go to the front passenger side wheel. You should now have visibility and access to the radiator bleeder valve. Put in a clear hose (provided with kit) into the valve, put the other end in a container (see picture).

Open valve, watch for fluid flow only (no air bubbles), close valve, remove hose. Congrats you’ve bled the radiator and you shirt, hair, face, and arms are probably still dry.
c) Turn off the car and come back after it has cooled off.
d) After the car has cooled, open the coolant bottle and check the level, top it off to about an inch above the internal hose inlet. Close it up, and start up the car.
e) Let the car warm up, if all went well, congratulations, the cooling system is void of any trapped air, and as effective as possible.
Optional:
f) If a test drive after step e still produces high temp, then park the car let it cool off. Repeat step b, but DO NOT start the car, just set it up first with the valve open. Start the car, shut valve off after you get a steady stream of coolant only. Remove the hose and container and enjoy your ride.

In closing...
See, much simpler, much dryer, and not even having to mess with the water pump fitting. ...and pet friendly too! (If you haven't heard, spilled coolant will make a curious pet that decides to taste and drink it, either very sick, or worse.)

So, it’s very useful, very effective, inexpensive, what’s the catch?
The only one that I know of, is that while the auto bleeder is happily bleeding air away from your cooling system, the question that should really be asked is: “How am I getting air into a closed coolant system?” In other words, the auto bleeder is actually so effective, that it may mask an issue with the system.

There are two ways to get around this:
1) My workaround to that is a weekly preventive maintenance of checking for leaks on the garage floor and checking your fluid levels. If your car has neither issue, then chances are very good your system is in good working conditions.
2) DPNW's product actually has a in inline valve on the hose to the T-connection. This allows you run it open as you long as you wish, then perhaps on a periodic basis, close it for "normal"/OEM operations. Neat trick. Here's a picture of the valve in a closed position (to set it on "auto bleeder" mode, you would run your car with the valve swung over 90 degrees from where pictured).

Photo courtesy of DPNW.

Keep cool.

Addendum:
"While you're there".... I noticed that the vent line from the coolant was set to drip right on top of the frame. And when it did, it would splatter around the corner of the engine bay. : (
So, a quick trip to Lowe's for a longer and new hose, then a couple of tie wraps later, I rerouted the line so that it would vent underneath the car.
Picture below, underneath, looking up toward the rear tire, shows the the results.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

A nearby lightning strike, and its effect...

2008-07-29T23:47:00.006-04:00

It’s my intent to put at least one article here a month, of substantial content.

This month, July 2008, to really enjoy my car my only recourse is the DeLorean Calendar, of which 2109 is featured for this month, because starting on July 5th, after a great drive, I pulled the car in the garage to begin the infamous “Valley of Death” (VOD) work. I’ll do a full write up on why, how, how much time, etc. next month. (PS: I enjoy working on my car, so it wasn’t a total lost month.)

This month I’d like to leave you with this little tidbit. Although it was not DeLorean related, it could definitely apply.

My mother in law was recently driving in to visit us, as she was 100 miles away she got caught in a thunderstorm, with lightning strikes flashing and cracking near her Toyota Rav4. As she waited at a stoplight – there was an instant flash along with a loud CRACK and BOOM!!!! …a lighting strike hit and exploded a transformer on the top of a pole, right by her car. Thankfully she was fine, just startled, but immediately after the energy dissipated, her car would not start. After the storm subsided, a battery jump start got the car going again, but the car’s entire electrical system was acting strangely.

Eventually the car had to be towed in the remaining distance, as it appeared to not hold a charge, and the alarm was messed up, and the power windows, and a few other electrical items. The culprit? See picture, the energy of the strike made it into the electrical system, and melted a link path (cener of picture) in the fuse box!

So, the morale of this story is, if you are caught in a lighting storm in your DeLorean, you may not be sent "Back to the Future", but you may be sent to mechanic/parts store.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

DeLoreans Sold on eBay - 2008 Q2 Update

2008-06-30T21:34:00.002-04:00

Last March's I posted a comparative summary of DeLoreans sold on eBay from October of 2006, through that time period. Today I updated the original posting, to include data through the end of the 2nd Quarter of 2008 (which is today, as of this wriing).

I hope you continue to find this information interesting.

For direct link click here.

DMC's (new) Stage 1 Upgrade: A review

2008-05-26T17:38:00.041-04:00

(Updated 06/06/08, added video at end of this blog)

Intro:

DMC has been selling and installing engine upgrades for our DeLoreans for a while now. They currently offer two options, a "Stage 1 Exhaust/Ignition Upgrade" and a "Stage 2 Performance Upgrade".

The Stage 2 option is an engine, ignition, and exhaust system revamp that roughly adds an extra 70Hp to a your stock PRV engine. DMCH has previously stated that only engines with 50,000 miles or less, qualify for the upgrade; however, there is a Stage 2 parts only option that is built and delivered on a zero mile crate engine, as a $7125 option.

Parts Kit: "Stage 2 Perfomance Upgrade"

DMC has very recently re-introduced the "Stage 1 Exhaust/Ignition Upgrade" option, which is similar to the Stage 2, but without any engine modifications nor engine mileage restrictions. The Stage 1 upgrade is available as a parts kit, for $2195, or installed at your local DMC affiliate for $2995.
Parts Kit: "Stage 1 Exhaust/Ignition Upgrade"

The original Stage 1's headers and pipes were Jet Hot coated, and while they looked good upon installation, the upgrade got put in hiatus after they were showing premature surface rusting, as the coating was being abrasively rubbed off vehicle use. In order to address this, this second release is an all-stainless solution (headers, with two catalytic converters, a custom muffler, and brackets). Something else addressed was that the previous Stage 1 & 2's upgrades were sounding too "muscle-car" like, which while some liked that, to me (and apparently others as well) this did not sound appropriate for this car, to its European roots (and parts). To address this, DMCH selected a different muffler solution on this version, to get that "European exhaust sound".

I've seen and heard the previous Stage 2 installs (never saw a Stage 1), and it was enough to get me curious on the halted Stage 1 option. Since I have had my car, I felt that our stock exhaust just didn't have the right sound either, especially as you up/down shifted, and the tiny exhaust tips just looked plain silly (I had even added some Pepboy chrome tips to attempt to address that). I couldn't personally justify, or had the pressing performance need to have a full Stage 2 upgrade; however, with this new re-engineered exhaust solution being available again, and a personal financial alignment of the planets, I decided to go for a Stage 1 upgrade.

Here is a "before" picture, taken in the early morning of day of the the trip to DMCFL:

Installation
Part of the joy of ownership for me is that I like to work on my car, and have been doing so for the last few months. However, with our hot muggy Florida days which have prematurely started, a 90 minute A/C drive to Bonita Springs (DMCFL location) for a one day installation, didn't sound like too bad an option for me to justify.

As usual DMCF's staff there is very knowledgeable and professional, in their impressively clean and organized facility (lobby and garage bays). They began as soon as the car cooled off, and in the late afternoon, the car rumbled up as soon as it was all put together. The new exhaust sound was impressive, it just did not sound like the same engine - but the true test would be on the road. If you are wondering about doing this upgrade yourself, it looks like a pretty straightforward bolt-off, bolt-on job, if you are fortunate enough to not have any of the original manifold mounting bolts snap.

This is what the complete part kit looks like...

Contents:
Stainless Headers
Stainless Catalytic Converter (2)
Stainless Custom muffler
Stainless Associated pre-bent tubes, 2.5"
Stainless Clamps (2)
Stainless Mounting brackets, w/rubber isolation mounts (2)
Stainless, Polished, Exhaust Tips
Muffler heat shield
Cold Air Intake kit
K&N Air Filter
Nology Corepack
Nology Wires
Spark Plugs, Silverstones
...and, a Cold Air Intake Kit

Evaluation
So after it's all done and paid for, what does it look like? What does it sound like? What does it feel like? What does it contribute? What can it do? ...let me attempt to answer those questions, with specific observation right out of the shop, and with now with several weeks of driving it.

Evaluation 1: Highway Driving
Driving for a very, very short distance in street traffic, basically from DMCFL to the highway, was fun. The car had a very different sound, not tuner, not muscle, definitely a European car sound – more on that later. On the trip home at highway speeds, I was reminded of my last vehicle's exhaust upgrade to our family hauler: a 2000 Expedition, 5.4 liter, to which I converted it to true dual exhaust with Magnaflows – now that, was a muscle car sound (and appropriate for that V8). And I was reminded of it because similarly, there was an approximately 2100 rpm harmonic resonance that reverberated into the cabin. Again, this highway ride was not really the showcase of this exhaust system, as it hummed (sometimes droned) for over an hour around the same revs (low 2000's in 5th gear). At that range, the sound is slightly elevated over stock, and at some points as you press on the accelerator, it is a sound that you can feel all around you.

Evaluation 2: MPG difference
As stated above, the trip to DMCFL for me is about a 90 minute, point to point trip; and it consists mostly of 90% highway (70 mph speed limit) driving. I filled up the tank and cleared the trip odometer just before the inbound trip, and then re-filled up again before leaving DMCFL to a) check my pre-Stage 1 install inbound mpgs, and b) reset to for outbound mpg calculations, with the Stage 1 installed. A few blocks before arriving home, I filled up the tank again, and noted the miles for the return trip calculation.

Results:
Pre-Stage 1: 26.0 mpg
With Stage 1: 27.5 mpg
Interesting. I suppose the more efficient exhaust system, in addition to the hotter spark burn, new sparks, contribute to the slightly added efficiency of the engine. I believe I've captured a good comparison here, as in both cases the conditions were very similar: Full tank fill up (O89), 90% highway miles (same roads, miles), no passenger, A/C air on, no significant winds, and cruising at a more or less a steady 70mph. Still, taking way any unaccounted for, or difference variables, it probably safe to say that Stage 1 is a 5% mpg increase, over the stock exhaust.

Evaluation 3: The look.

The Stage 1 exhaust system looks very professionally done, and in fact is very well integrated to the block, frame, and rear fascia. The O2 sensor is now very easy to access, and the oil filter is still easy to get to.

And even though I haven't checked it yet, eliminating the old system's crossover pipe (behind engine, above transmission), now provides interesting access opportunities from underneath the car, to the back of the engine, by the clutch fork lever mechanism.

Standing, and even crouching, from a few feet away you can barely see the catalytic converters; most of what you can see underneath is the union of the headers to the single pipe that goes to the catalytic converter. BTW: That union/bend is still within the lower limit of the frame. Every time I see them as I walk up to the car from behind, the plumbing reminds me of two snakes with their heads elevated in a rising coiled strike position. The new muffler sits a little lower than the stock setup, and is partially visible from the bottom center lip of the bumper.

Here is a squirrel's eye view of the left hand side plumbing.

The final touch is classy, the polished stainless tips have a "DMC" logo laser etched on the top, and look significantly more impressive than the smaller stock exhaust tips.

There are two things to note that I am iffy about, but these both come down to nitpicking. First is for some reason, the right tip extends out just a little bit further than the left. It doesn’t seem to be in the installation, I’ll have to check that further. The other is that I do not care for the exhaust clamps used to join the muffler to the 2.5 inch exhaust bends. I can try to move them so they expose the bolts less, but instead I will replace that nuts and bolt look altogether, with some stainless band clamps.

The engine bay also benefits from this upgrade. First, both the warm air hose, that rises from the manifold’s stove bracket, and joins up with the stock cold air hose, are removed. This is good because that is a typical eyesore as on older cars as it tends show surface rust. Mine had been long gone, and had been replaced with a similar bypass hose. You have the option of replacing the stock configuration today, with DMC's "Performance Air Intake", or Hervey's "Cold Air Input Tube", or if you search around there are tips on do-it-yourself versions. The Stage 1 kit now includes this, and the look in this area if you had not previously done it, is now much cleaner. Eliminating the old system is not an issue for Southern climate cars, but it may be a bit of (probably minor) an issue for the few cars that are run in colder weather.

Eliminating the old system is not an issue for Southern climate cars, but it may be a bit of (probably minor) an issue for the few cars that are run in colder weather.

There there is the Nology upgrade's contribution to the engine bay, it now adds thick blue Nology wires running to your plugs, along with an associated braided ground cable (one per plug).
.
..of course the Nology powercore is also installed on the vertical wall, and it visually states that this is not a stock setup.

Hmm, as I write this it occurs to me that as far as appearances, you really can't differentiate if this if is a Stage 1 or a Stage 2 upgrade.

Evaluation 4a: Horsepower/Torque
I have no real data, but theoretically there is supposed to be a 8-15 Hp gain by going to this less restrictive exhaust system. I have no real data to track pre and post Stage 1 results, so all I have is a subjective evaluation as follows.
Not often, but I have pushed my car to redline on 1st , quickly then to 2nd to see what she could do (stock). So as a baseline, I kind of know how she responds in a 0-60mph run. Curious as to what this new exhaust system would contribute, I did the same on the same roads I've previously pushed her.
There is definitely an added kick in 1st gear, not a monstrous boost, but definitely noticeable. A quick 1st gear redline, to 2nd gear to 60mph "seemed" and "felt" faster – but again I have no real data, dyno readings, to back that up. Stage 1 definitely contributes a few more ponies of Hp into increased torque…and I suppose if you took the cats out… Disclaimer: not advocating to do this, nor to pull your mattress tags either. : )

Evaluation 4b: Street Traffic Driving
If what you've read so far leads you to believe that this upgrade is just "not all that", well, I have saved the best for last. I drove it for several hours for the next two days after the upgrade, to continue the evaluation. The driving was all local street traffic driving, and this, is where you drive with a smile on your face with this upgrade. First, firing it up in the garage is just so cool, it just goes "baRRRooom" and at first you can't really believe this is your same car, with that sound. Once on the street, the sound of revving up 1st is just plain fun – it's like all of a sudden your car sounds similar to the cars that you admire for their engine sounds. Then, in between passing it on from 1st to 2nd, you are rewarded with another new "foreign" sound, a momentary deep exhaust burble, just before 2nd gear kicks back up the Euro-sonic track. The more revs you pull the cooler the sound effect…there goes that gas mileage improvement! And my favorite effect so far, by far, has to be a slight tap of the accelerator as you coast slowly in neutral, "VRrooommm": totally pointless, but totally cool, and totally previously unachievable. In fact as I pulled into a gas station I did just that, and as I came out of the car some young kid in a spruced up Acura stopped to say my car was "Gangstah!" …yeah, I'm going with that was a compliment.

This upgrade is most definitely best appreciated, tuned for, street driving.

Summary
So there it is. Was it worth it? You will have to make that decision for yourself, for your own reasons, for your car; however, for me it is a resounding: "Yes." Not only am I (still) driving a DeLorean, but now a DeLorean with a really great sounding exhaust. To me the Stage 1 upgrade adds significantly to the overall driving pleasure, and ownership experience.

...and PS:
I hope everyone enjoyed a great Memorial Day today.

Update (06/08/08)
I tried taking videos of the exhaust system from the outside, at idle, etc., but they were all pretty boring. Although this video is in "shaky cam", I believe that this one best conveys how the new exhaust system sounds to the most important critic - you the driver.

In the video the D starts from a near dead stop, is shifted up to redline on 1st gear, then quickly shifted to 2nd up to 60mph, and then drops to Neutral (listen for cool "burble" sound) to a coast.

Here is the video:

...ok, ok, here is the standard driveway idle and rev shot:

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

The RPM Relay – A modern update

2008-05-18T21:02:00.021-04:00

RPM Relay, a synopsis
The RPM relay, resides in your fuse/relay area. Physically it is a small boxy plastic case made either by Bosch (black), or Volvo (green). In our cars a thick wiring harness plugs into to it, just above the fuse box, under the door lock module. The RPM Relay’s function is essentially simple, as long as it senses a tachometer signal (engine use), it supplies power to the fuel pump. Additionally it also provides power to the warm up regulator heater, and it turns on the main fuel relay (Lambda relay). When the RPM Relay goes (or starts to go) bad, your cars stops dead due to no lack of fuel being pressurized into the system. Now, guess what part on a DeLorean is (still) a notoriously high failure part? Answer see 1st and 2nd words in sub-title above.

If your RPM Relay fails on the road, there are some options to get get you home.
One thing you can do, is to remove the RPM Relay and jumper (a thick paper clip will do in a pinch) terminals #30 and #87; this will supply constant power to the pump. This is only temporary as it will affect ECU/Lambda controlled fuel mixture, and overall is probably not safe to run for an extended period. John Hervey's SpecialTAuto site has an excellent reference of this emergency jumper solution here.

The other option up to now has been, to carry a spare RPM relay. Just in case.
Available at:
SpecialTAuto: here
Your local DMC affiliate: here
Remember though, these have the original 26 year old design.

Well, now that we are in the new millennium, we have a new option thanks to Dave M. (an electrical engineer and an active DeLorean community participant), aka “Bitsyncmaster” on DMCTalk and the DML. Read on...

Dave’s re-engineered RPM relay
In February of 2007, Dave sketched up plans for a modern update to the notorious RPM relay. His schematic replaced commonly used 1980’s discrete components with a modern solid state components and a micro-controller/processor. To really appreciate the difference between the original design, and Dave’s, look at the picture below (my old OEM relay on left, and Dave’s version - click picture for larger view).

The old relay reminds me of the results of an old Radio Shack electronic kit, and the new one just looks so modern with its really tiny surface mount components. Beyond duplicating the basic function, he also added an optionally active “Hot Start” feature. This will actually prime the fuel system, for 1 second at 1 hour intervals when the car is parked. Some consider this a controversial feature because it is workaround, to a different problem that needs to be fixed. Again, it’s optionally enabled by the user, and this could mean the difference between a drivable car or not, at least until the complete fix to the problem is addressed.

Features of the Re-Engineered RPM Relay
Back to the main feature of the this new RPM Relay design. There are some very big difference in this new and modern relay:
a) Less current draw: This new design draws 16ma on ignition, and 20 ma in operation. The original relay draws 260ma. That’s a 92% reduction of current on the new design!
b) Eliminates a constantly energized coil: In the original design this relay maintains a constantly energized coil when it is on, this function is now replaced with solid state components (the differences are visible in the picture).
c) Less heat: Since the original relay sucks up more current through the discrete parts (see coil above as an example), they generate more heat. So much so, that you cannot touch the internal components on the original relays after a long drive. The new design, on a similar drive, runs barely warm. I know because I performed that test with the two designs.

To anyone who has dealt with electronics and reliability knows, the three benefits above, translates directly into a now significantly more reliable part. Cool.

Cost
As of this writing Dave is currently asking $75 to upgrade your old relay, along with a refundable $50 "core" charge. The upgrade consists of a completely new and professionally made circuit board, with modern components soldered in, and using your existing case and connector.

RPM Relay in use
I have been running this relay as a beta tester for Dave, since January 2008 (5 months as of this writing). In that time, I have driven my car every weekend on either 10-30 mile cruises, or often to longer distances to local car shows (including during high 90+ degree Florida days). In that time we also took the car on a 600 mile round trip that included 3 hours of continuous driving. The relay sits quietly in its place, performing its function, and frankly I have forgotten that it is there - which is exactly what this part should contribute to our cars.

Summary
Hat’s off to Dave and his improved design of the RPM relay, this is an excellent one person contribution to the maintenance and continued longevity of our cars.

These kind of upgrades are typically not as “fun” as other things that you could add to your car: You plug it in, and apparently you don’t really “get”, or see, any noticeable improvements. While that is true, you should consider this a preventive maintenance, a reliability improvement, an upgrade. And while those are often not “sexy” upgrades, in the end, it is money well spent on your hobby/passion/baby (as it were).

If you’d like to consider or purchase one of the new solid state relays from Dave, you can contact him at: david.mckeen@verizon.net or PM “Bitsyncmaster” on DMCTalk.org.

Edit 01/03/09:
One Year Update
My solid state RPM relay is the oldest production unit in operation. It has been running without incident now throughout an entire year, including some near 100 degree ambient Florida temperatures, and several 3+ continuous hour trips. Many other owners have now been running Dave's relay with similar excellent performance.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

DeLorean Clock : Gallery of owners' updates

2008-05-04T14:44:00.014-04:00

It has been almost a couple of months that I published the "The DeLorean clock, a modern update" blog post.

In that time I have been enjoying my clock on every ride that I take, as well as have corresponded with a few other owners in their upgrades as well. As they've installed their now functioning clocks, the feedback from them has been very complimentary as to the work that was done by Dakota Digital, and the overal look after installed. Here are a few pictures and feedback that I have received:

Bill S.
"I am a very happy camper to have such a nice looking clock that really works. I was able to get the clock back into the "D" today and it looks fantastic. WOW. It was worth every penny they charged and more. The look is great and your instructions made the hook up childs play. I am delighted to have a working clock. I actually like the no holes in the clock face look better than the original set up."

Jon in Spain.
"Installation was very easy."

Bruce in California
"It looks great. We did a car show this past weekend with our club and all were impressed with my new clock! Some thought it could never be done."

If you would like to replace your current non-working DeLorean clock, this seems to be a very good alternative.
Check the link above for more details.
And if you do make the upgrade, zap me over a quick picture for this gallery.

Thanks.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings.<<<

Sticky power window switch fix

2008-04-02T13:45:00.014-04:00

So my son is driving and I am riding shotgun one pleasant Florida winter, and I decide "Hey, kill the air, let's roll the windows down." I tapped each power Windows switch until the windows go down, no problem… until I smell this really awful smell. Awful in the sense that, this is not good, this cold be really not good. So we pull over right away and sniff around but the odor was gone by then. Later when we pull back to the driveway of our house, the windows would not go up.

After removing the fuse/relay panel, fuse #11 which is part of the power window’s circuits, was blown, in fact the plastic on it had deformed(!). Replacing it, it blew again, which led me to the switch. For some reason, the passenger’s side switch, was sticking on the rear part of the center console. What had happened was that as I pressed the switch, and released it to stop the window motor (typical operatoin for these cars), the switch is meant to swivel back to it’s neutral position. It didn’t, it got stuck and the motor blew the fuse. The switch took a lot of the heat, and actually melted the mating connector as shown below (the connector in the back, is the passenger's side).

Two fixes required:

First I had to replace the connector, this is not a common part so I had to go with shielded female spade lugs. I tightened the spades sideways with a pliers, to ensure that they engaged into the switch firmly.

Secondly I had to stop the switch from sticking. Looking at it in detail it could be a tolerance issue, either the switch or the openning for the switch or a combination of both, contributed to top button touching the center panel when it was depressed. As you can see in the picture, there isn’t much of a gap as installed - especially in relation to it's neighbor switches (window defoger and driver's side window switch).

The spacing is so close that it actually stayed stuck in the down position. So, my solution was to move the switch a tad bit forward. To do this I Dremel-ed the opening just a bit, at the short side of the opening. Then I put an inexpensive, flexible spacer (a heat shrink tube on electrical tape, below) on the rear side of the switch, to get the spacing required between the switch and the console.

The fit was snug, but the switch now moves freely in both the up and down positions – no more sticking.

Once those were done, the fuse held and it has been working great.

I suggest that you test your current switches for no interference with the panel, in order to prevent a similar scenario.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<

The DeLorean clock, a modern update

2008-03-22T05:16:00.062-04:00

The first DeLoreans, up until about VIN#s 6000, came standard with a center dash panel mounted digital clock. For some reason (cost savings?) the clock was eliminated and all DeLoreans produced afterwards came with a modified center panel that did not include a cut out for the clock. Unless your DeLorean had a later, or after market radio which had a digital display, your car would not have a digital clock display.

My DeLorean being a relatively lower VIN series production car, came with a clock, but it had stopped working for many years back. The previous owner had tried to repair it, but the clock was pretty well out of commission. There are may DeLoreans with orignal clocks that either do not function, or are malfuctioning; apperently the years have taken its toll on this component. Since I have had the car I have been looking for a clock solution, and after many dead ends, I believe that I have found a suitable compromise: a modern, functional, retro and near OEM good looking console digital clock.

Our current clocks:
Our current clocks seemed to have been sourced from an 80's existing application, the clocks on the Lotus Esprits. The two pictures below are of the housing, and opened up you will see the main circuit board/display. The clock's DeLorean harness connector is shown in the left picture in the upper left (a four wire, white cylindrical connector).

If you're interested in looking for the just as out of production and rare original Lotus version, (and lucky enough to find it), it will work with a small modification. The Lotus clock is a near exact duplicate part, except the end connector is different. For your reference, the Lotus Part # is: A089M6034F.

Repair/Replacement options that I tried were:
* Reanimating the current dead clock – no good, possibly delaminated circuit board traces or bad components.
* Utilize an older Ford Thunderbird digital clock – no good, extra wires were tied into the corresponding OEM stereo.
* Found another older digital clock, simple to wire, but it would not fit in the envelope of the current clock.
* Searched the internet for any remaining old Lotus Esprit clocks (same clock).
* If you could find one on eBay, they would typically sell in the $200 range, and that was a still 25 year old clock.

Then I got a tip from a DMCTalk posting, about digital meters by a company named Dakota Digital, digging around their website they had a “custom” option.

An alternative: A new digital clock.
A few conversations with them, some special instructions, the results came in the mail.

After installing it I have to say that I am 99.99% pleased. The clock is bright, readily visible, looks nearly original, and is really, very useful when driving - especially if your current radio does not have a clock display.

The Good and The Bad.
As stated earlier this is a compromise solution, and perhaps not for all. So allow me to discuss the pros and cons that I can see.

Cons:
* Since Dakota Digital uses their proprietary existing clock design/circuit board (in picture below) in replacement of the original clock, this requires modifications to the center dash panel.

The panel removes easy enough (tip: write down the wire colors for the three wires of the rheostat - or take a picture), especially with a manual transmission shifter. The original mounting studs on the panel are replaced with larger brazed studs, and a dark bezel is glued on to the dash (details seen below).

* Dakota Digital’s existing clock design has the time adjustment buttons on the left side, as opposed to the bottom on the original clock. For this clock you then have two options, you can have them put the set buttons on the bezel on the left of the clock, or you can have the buttons mounted remotely (see picture below) – I chose this options and ran them for access, under the dummy switch. For you concours guys, this may be a significant difference.

Tip: See those red/black buttons, they are small plastic caps that are lightly press fit, on top of the spring loaded trigger buttons that set the time. I suggest that you remove them (just pull up on them), before you route them through the console, since they can come off quite easily especially when you "fish" the wires up though the console hole, as shown. Once you have the triggers where you need them, you can then easily pop back in the red/black caps.

* In order to hook into the existing clock connector, you either have to cut the harness connector and splice the new clock into it, or alternatively, you can cut the existing connector of the original clock, and splice it into the new clock and then just connect the harness to the clock connector. (Wiring notes further below.)
* The fit of the center console, is a little snug - just make sure you tuck all wires away from under the clock when re-installing the center panel. Unless you know where to look, you would never notice.
* This clock will add a small (2mA) load to your car when it is off (to preserve clock time) - normally not a big deal, but it will add an additional drain and these cars have been known to, if grounds aren't clean, loose a battery's effective charge in 1-2 weeks w/o use.

Pros:
* You now have a modern, working digital clock – and it is useful.
* The display dims with headlights on, like the original.
* Relatively easy to install.
* ALL Vins can utilize this. The Vins that originally had clocks in them (roughly up to the 6000s), can directly plug the new clocks in using the connector options above. I am sure that the higher Vins that never came with clocks, still have the clock connector; these came with the center dash consoles that did not have the cutout for the clocks, so it would need a new plate – but guess what? DMCH has these in stock, so you could easily purchase a new plate, move the rheostat and assotiated bracket from your existing to your new plate, and then send it in to have the clock built in. If they did finally remove the clock connectors in the later VINs, the hook up of these new clocks is pretty straight forward (battery power, ignition power, ground, and optional light dimming).
* Attention DMC: With this solution, you can sell your new DeLoreans, with clocks.

OK, you are sold, what’s the next step?
Dakota Digital has now made two of these clocks for me, what I have done is to send them my center dash (I had a spare) as pictured above, with my original clock mounted on it for volume references.
UPDATE (03/31/08):
Just confirmed with them, you only need to send the panel, they do not need the original clocks as they now have the volume requirements defined. Just to be safe, make sure the original moutning studs are on the back of the panel so they can reference locations.
If you have any doubts/questions on your panel, call them up to discuss it.

My main contacts there have been Scott (Sales) and Justin (Custom Shop), both have been cordial, responsive, and overall very pleasent to deal with. Their contact information is here I suggest you call and speak with either of them (tell them Ozzie says "Hi" - btw: just in case anyone is wondering, I have no ties nor profit/gain from recommending them), for any specific Dakota Digital information and to coordinate your retrofit. By this point they are familiar with the DeLorean clocks so it is just a matter of sending above and following further instructions below.

Once they receive your panel, they typically call you back with three questions:
1) Color preference of display (Teal is best match to original),
2) Location of time set buttons (so far I have chosen remote), and
3) Credit card for payment of $135 plus S/H, to your address.

They seem to able to turn these around within two weeks. I did ask about a group buy, but they said since this is custom work, they are all still being made on a one by one basis.

INSTALLATION

Removing existing center panel (two types):
The center panel used on both applications of shifters (5 Speed or Auto) is the same, their removal however is slightly different.
On a 5 Speed: Unscrew the shifter ball. Remove the two screws at the bottom of the panel. Rotate panel up and back from the rear, lifting up, while simultaenously moving the shifter boot above the shifter.
On an automatic: I haven't done this, but there is a good walkthrough here at DMCTalk.com

Wiring
Per notes above you will have to decide to splice into your existing clock connector, or directly into your harness wiring.

You will find this connector either just under the front of the center panel, or if not visible, it is most likely pushed in under the A/C panel. If the connector is not visible when you remove the center panel, the worst case is that you may have to remove the center console (relatively easy job), in order to have better access at it.

Interestingly enough, I have been getting feedback that even the latest VIN#s, still have the clock connector even though the clock option was eliminated. This is significant because this means that ANY DeLorean can have this clock mod, as long as you have a center panel with the appropriate hole for the clock (tip: in stock currently at DMC, Part #108240). If you are going to swap your existing non-clock panel for this panel, you will need to move the rheostat, rheostat bracket, and the side trims.

The splicing configuration is as follows:

DeLorean Harness:   1) Black 2) Purple(x2), 3) Green/White, 4) Red/Orange
DeLorean Clock Connector: 1) Black, 2) Red, 3) Green, 4) Blue
Dakota Clock:  1) Black, 2) Orange, 3) Red, 4) Blue

Just match the numbers above, depending on your wiring preference.

Example 1: If you are hooking up the Dakota Digital Clock to the original clock's connector, the new clock's Orange wire, would be spliced into the connector's Red wire.

The picture below is an example of this wiring:

(The blue and red sleeves above are heat shrink tubes, on a soldered splice. Tip: don't splice so close to the connector as above.)

Example 2: If you are not going to be using the harness nor the original clock's connector, then I suggest you use shielded spade/lugs, and mate per numbers; for example, the Dakota Red wire, to the harness' Green/White wire. Doing so will allow you to remove the center panel if you should ever need so in the future, without having to cut the wires.

For reference, these are the DeLorean's harness clock wires, and their function:

Green/White: 12V, with ignition on.
Purple (2x): 12V, constant (for clock memory)
Black: Ground
Red/Orange: Dimmer

Disclaimer: The above wiring configuration worked for my VIN# harness, wire colors, for my application. Please use this as a guideline only and make sure you verify your own wiring first. If you car wires melt while you do this, I will feel bad for you, but you were warned - seriously, worse that can happen is you'll blow Fuse #11, or maybe damage the clock, but just be cautious messing with the electrical system if you are not sure. If you are not comfortable there, then get a fellow D owner's assistance/expertise to assist.

Summary:
I believe this is a good solution to dead/malfunctioning DeLorean clocks. DMC had stated that they would not be remaking clocks, so unless you have seen another solution this may be the only one out there. Let me know what you think.

***** NOTE (03/25/08) ******
I am writing this posting from The Traders Hotel, in Changzhou, China at the end of a long business trip day. When I get back to the states I will upload the pictures above. Oh, and get this, guess what room number I am staying in? I am in room number: 2109. What are the odds of that?

***** NOTE (03/30/08) ******
It is SOOOO nice to be back home. Since I've got a 12 hour jet lag, I have just updated some text above and have uploaded the majority of the pictures. Feel free to email me if you have any additional questions.

UPDATE (June, 2008): See a picture gallery of other owners who have put this clock mod, into their own DeLoreans. Click Here.

>>> If you have a few minutes, be sure to check out the "Best of" postings. Thanks.<<<